Kelpro999

Sounds like any elevator with non-hybrid weights would still work fine if someone sawed a pound off each one. Now the question remains.. why remove the elevators for a simple part replacement

If the same elevator was within balance specification limits listed in the service manual before weight change, is it still within limits in the same service manual after the weight change? Was a revision to the manual made? I was under the impression that maintaining specific balance limits was important for aerodynamic reasons based on shape & elasticity more than anything else. Now I see it seems to have been an arbitrary number based on what weight dimension fit into the horn at the time. Now the question is… why remove elevators when replacing weights when balance target is arbitrary? If the new weights weigh 3.2lbs then the “new” specifications will be met without question.

Good job. I’m still wondering about the changes to balance issues but I guess it’s not a problem or at least haven’t heard of it yet. Have you flown it yet? Preferably nose down 5deg. WOT @2350rpm. No..just kidding but eventually someone will test it.

Sprayed with zinc phosphate. Probably not necessary since the original had nothing, even the weights were bare but before installing I also used zinc phosphate. Are you replacing weights as part of the AD? I’m wondering if there is a revision to the service manual for new balance specifications besides the service bulletin? Also adding two pounds to the tail is like eight to the hat shelf. This whole AD has created more questions than solutions so proceed with caution. Just my two cents

Soo…. the arm remains the same and the weight increased by one pound yet balance is still ok. Raises the question that if adding a pound some time in the past would have been ok? Were they always overly unbalanced that much?

Not sure, I’ve only used tan ones so nothing to compare. Also leave window vent open that seems to limit condensation with lower temp delta .

50% heavier weights yet no other mention about why it’s ok in the SB other than new balance specs. No other aerodynamic changes made. Doesn’t this seem odd?

I’m outside 24/7 and use Macs covers. The more expensive sunbrella model at 340 or so seems to last better than six yrs in sunny SoCal. Windshield liner and light weight enough to take along.

Recording data was part of the SB and the spec changes are creating some confusion, maybe just me …. but the short rivet thing is something else raising an eyebrow. I have an early C with non hybrids that had balance discrepancies before and after paint then rivet length issues. You also won’t find published balance weight altering methods other than filling to make lighter from Mooney. I wonder, like you, if others are going to have similar length issues.

A curious question, did you record before removal balance data? Compare old vs new part weight?

If that’s new rivets then they are completely wrong. I had what would have been same problem balancing mine. Mooney p/n rivets were so short no attempt was made. Buying longer than needed allowed cutting down during practice / testing until proper fit obtained. If those are new struck rivets, removing may be problematic for same reason claimed. At this point welding to the flat head and pulling may be the better way. Creativity will get them out. Striking stuck fat rivets usually makes them fatter. Photo of rivets I started with before cutting.

Yikes! I found nothing to indicate mine had ever been touched, no sanding marks or anything. That’s why I was very reluctant to “balance” them but specifications are real so….. now seeing weight of hybrid vs non leaves me skeptical of what is real.

I didn’t have hybrids. Only checked balance for paint reasons. That’s when I discovered balance adjustment methods are not published or I couldn’t find any. This leads me to believe the balance tolerance is greater than previously assumed. Have you noticed any flight characteristic changes from hybrid to non-hybrid? Probably not until reaching the end of the envelope

I got mine from eBay. There’s one still there but price is high

That’s another question. Why does a part change due to corrosion issues change the static balance specification given for a particular model/ serial number? I understand how your balance changed but not why without any other dynamics to the aircraft. Was the under balance amount a problem before corrosion? I’ll have to locate my service manual to remember my exact spec data. Understand mine are 4 ribs, not 9 so they may have different dynamic response than yours. This one has added lead

I can’t explain why mine came up lighter than required. The only reason I have issues is because I checked balance after painting, otherwise I would still be poor dumb and happy. Even after removing new paint it barely met under-balance specs for my S/N (4 rib elevators). The weight of your new vs old doesn’t make sense either unless you “filed” one pound off the new ones or your elevators were grossly under balance. Now I’m poor confused and concerned

Now compare to the removed ones. Not sure why I had to add 6 oz. to get there with original “good” weights

Could you weigh one? Kind of curious

I’d love to have that kind of fun but my job and projects keep me tied down. I’m in San Diego so yeah, the weather keeps me here . I’ve tried my old pressure pot but couldn’t get the needle vs pressure well enough with out massive overspray $$$ or wind waves in the finish. Ended up adding paint feed to an hvlp gun using an IV stand for pressure. All this was for single 2k mixed mfg recommendations. Seems to have viscosity of water when mixed to “correct “ ratios. Could also be brand I’m using plus little experience with new paint. They say new paint & equipment wastes less paint but I don’t see it after applying two or three times more coats. Where are you located ? I feel I have to hide painting where I’m at because of the environmental gods.

That red is made of gold. I haven’t sprayed “new Imron” but the old could cover 220 scratch like a sheet of glass in one or two coats. Now it takes 3-5 coats over 400 with “automotive “ single stage urethanes using hvlp & hte guns. I get that base/clear looks great… for a while, unless kept out of UV, but nothing would last longer than old Imron. I have some 30+ year jobs that still look good today. Also found that old equipment doesn’t work well with new paints so not sure if new guns would work with old Imron like your red gold. You may want to test a few hundred dollars worth on a small piece before mixing a gallon

I did when lines were straight, overspray was normal and Imron was $75 /gal.

Well, I did skip the very first step and that’s a complete inspection for problem areas like smoking rivets, cracks, deep scratches & dents taking notes of location before stripping then again after. 2. remove paint 3. pressure wash 4. Make repairs found in step one yet no body fillers 5. acid & soap wash w/ scotch-brite 6. pressure wash 7. Alodine, rinse and while wet rinse again w/ di water 8. Apply wash primer or chromate epoxy very lightly 9. Apply 2k urethane high build surfacer primer during cross link period of wash primer 10. Body fill dents & scratches left from step four followed by more 2k primer at each repair 11. Guide coat & block sand to at least 400 on entire surface 12. now it’s ready for paint but that’s another process depending on what paint type chosen. There are other ways to get there but these steps work for me most of the time

New one p/n 600115-005 on eBay. You may not like the price though

If you’re asking what to strip with, I use …D-Zolve™ 15-33R Aircraft Depainter Made by Solvent Kleene. It removes what ever paint you have on it now without corrosion or hydrogen issues, stays wet a long time and can be applied over oily/ greasy areas without pre washing. That’s the first step for me, next is…….

CrownAir is not but I think you mean Coast however they don’t want to be.