Kelpro999

Same here.. some kind of caramel syrup paste in my brake side and pretty sure that’s what I’ll find in my flap side

Got 61yrs. out of my firestones but upgrading because I heard it’s better

Searching through my manuals revealed how vague the information is. I remember reading it but was probably a Google search result. I’ll also be after mine before long .

I think we have the same plane right now. I’ve been doing some refurbishment for a while and my flaps are acting same but I’ve had the park brake valve & reservoir out. Do you have the maintenance manual? I think air was drawn in the cap to shaft seal on the first stroke so bleeding should fix it for now but replacing pump seals should help keep it that way. If I remember right there’s a specific way to bleed the flap system. I’m not near my manuals until tomorrow but someone may come along with info before then.

Is the left flap position ok?

Do you own the travel boards?

Yes, I weight the top side enough so I can easily lift the prop and feel the tail eye to pin clearance. With the base over weighted it can’t lift (nose down) by accident. The telescoping tail stand / weight allows lifting at any attitude for whatever I’m doing.

You might try adding a pound or two psi to the reservoir vent while slowly operating the pump.

I use lead bars above and below with a telescoping square tube stand pinned at whatever height I need.

I have the aileron/flap board here in San Diego if you want to head west.

Someone just bought a full set on eBay, wondering if it was a member?

Found the same. It’s called for in the parts book so I think I’ll ask Frank if he knows what replaces it or something else I’ve missed. Temperature limitation is another concern

That explains Spruce response but not the Mooney spare parts book. Maybe it was once approved until it wasn’t However, it doesn’t exactly say it’s not approved, that little tidbit came from Spruce . The max temp limit isn’t really heart warming though

The only thing I looked at was Aircraft spruce statements saying it’s not fuel rated but don’t know where they got that info from.

A few on eBay

While the paint is somewhat soft you can use a bearing scraper to remove it. The bushing/spacers should rotate with grease and fit solidly to the fork ears and bolts. Sometimes paint buildup on the edges of the bearing bores will cause binding when bolts are tightened, also paint on the mounting ears may cause same binding.

I see it’s looking like everything else starts at -3 and up.

Currently Looking for the hose from carb to firewall for fuel pressure gauge. Mooney spare parts manual specifies Stratoflex 193-xxx… yet reading manufactures applications it’s only for low pressure air and vacuum. Definitely not for fuel. What I have now is using 213-2D fittings with unknown hose that is cracking. Anyone else find a field fab hose that is compatible?

Am I looking at a broken #4 exhaust pipe at the muffler next to the cooler hoses? Or an illusion

As in complete strip and refinish? It does require some dismantling for that type of finishing. youtube is a good asset for color taping if you’ve never done it. I’ve been immersed in electro plating and powder coating because of it with satisfying results. Enjoy

Most of the cost is shiny new fittings. If that’s not too important just remake with bulk hose and your fittings. Shiny is nice though

well… before painting my C it had more than one repaint job’s. Scratch n shoot over whatever. Stripping looked like corn chips and it flew fine for years before me. I even added some foo foo cans on top of that to slow some corrosion spots and it still flew fine. So I would think that if you’re on a single job you could 600 the entire top surface (staying off rivet heads) and follow with same color base then clear. Blend top to bottom and polish bottom. All that without adding much weight. Most of the paint weight is combined overspray and evaporation, only a portion of our money is left to enjoy. So I’m one vote for Go for it

Just removing an ADF loop gained nearly 25 lbs. useful. Did I reweigh ? No, I don’t want to know about having lost it somewhere else

A little more info needed. How was bottom up bleeding performed ? Pressure pot, pump or ?. Fluid type & condition before and after ? Access to reservoir - non 201 windscreen mod? Area of concern seems to be the valve p/n A-47G-45 inside the master cylinder piston if still original cylinders. Not saying it’s defective, just Saying it’s a component that can do what you describe if foreign matter or air is present. Also is there any leakage at the (right side) master cylinder shaft?

Lectric XP lite