MikeOH

@cliffy Have you reported this to the NTSB?

I am NOT an A&P so this is just my opinion: I'd be far more worried about a maintenance induced failure brought about by messing with that inaccessible fitting, than a leak suddenly developing after many years of faithful leak-free operation. Sure, some things wear out and need to be inspected/replaced on a periodic basis; I don't think a fuel fitting falls into that category. Again, IMHO. Just check the lower fitting angle per the S/B and call it a day.

I'd leave it be. I have a high-time (2700 hour) engine and oil pressure runs in the mid-60s with higher oil temps (around 200 in winter, +220 in summer). It's been that way since I purchased 7 years ago with 2100 hours. NA IO-360A1A

Yeah, it kinda does. Maybe it's that the weak impulse coupling spark won't ignite a mixture on the edge of too rich/lean, but a long hot spark will.

If the SureFly can't fix fuel system shortcomings (I agree with that), then we are back to my question of how does a hotter/longer spark improve starting? The other way to look at it is to conclude the SureFly is making up for deficiencies in the engine system as a whole; i.e. hiding other maintenance issues.

PM me your address and I'll mail it to you. (You can PM by clicking on the 'double ballon' icon in the upper right of the page)

I think it's premature to blame the alternator. I would have an A&P carefully follow the Plane Power troubleshooting guide: https://planepower.aero/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/Troubleshooting-Single-Engine-Externally-Regulated-Alternators.pdf

Good point! I'll take a look.

Thank you! Doesn't look like it applies by S/N to my 1970 M20F.

Hmm, what is the S/B number, please? I want to check my plane for compliance.

None of that answers the part of my question that you did NOT quote, "...I thought it was fuel issue, more than anything". No question the Surefly provides a hotter/longer spark. I'm still not following how a hotter spark is going to ignite a mixture that is NOT within a combustible range. Which, again, I thought was the issue with hot starts (too much, or too little fuel).

If the oil is coming from around the vacuum pump, my guess is something is wrong with the new gasket; torn, wrong, miss-installed??

I, too, am a degreed and recently retired EE. @Vance Harral is exactly right. This represents crap documentation and is begging for an error. Holding an owner responsible for not being able to pick an A&P that knew all this is ABSURD! Sure, ultimately the owner may end up paying for the mistake but it's pathetic to consider that a 'just' outcome based on some twisted logic that the owner is always responsible. GMAB! Rule of thumb for all electrical devices: Be VERY careful of hooking a ground up to ANY terminal post that is ISOLATED from the case of the device. A true case ground will NOT have any insulation/isolation material (i.e. non-conductive) involved: the post/terminal will thread DIRECTLY into the metal case if it is ground connection. You can see black/white colored material (insulators) on the AUX post in the photo of the back of the alternator; that's a flag that that post is NOT a ground.

Here are the photos of my old duct:

Thanks for the feedback. I don't really have hot or cold start problems (note: I didn't say ever; just rare and never killed the battery). Plus, I've never quite understood why the Surefly would be any better at hot starts...I thought that was a fuel issue, more than anything. Fuel/air ratio needs to be in the proper range for ignition, so why would the Surefly solve that? Given the number of posts just here on MS over Surefly 'issues' makes me question your last sentence, however. It seems the data favors the conventional mag is LESS prone to failing. At this point, I'm with @bluehighwayflyer and am perfectly happy with 'the one(s) that brung me'. Tractor mags for me!