N231BN

Jetdriven is absolutely correct. As far as rocketman's comment, it MAY be correct on a McCauley with the spring but I know for a fact a Hartzell with counterweights will go into feather at full power. The only feathering prop that will go to low pitch with a governor failure is a Hamilton-Standard. It uses an electric pump to feather the prop since the governor loses the pressure required as the RPM drops. The smallest one I know of would be about two feet underground if hung on a Mooney though...

If you are running LOP you will need more MP to make up for the lost horsepower. How far LOP are you running?

Anyone with an Electronics International product in their M20K? Technically the JPI probe should work as they are both Type K thermocouples.

I have a question for those 231/252 owners with a second oil temp: Where did you put the second probe and what style was it? I am looking to add Oil Temp to my UBG-16. However, the oil temp probe supplied with the unit (P-120) is too long to fit up underneath the oil suction screen. I see there is a 1/8"NPT plug in the front oil galley of the engine but EI doesn't make a sealed probe with that thread. I emailed EI tech support and they suggested a P-128S which is 1/4-28 thread. I would have to drill and tap a plug to make that work. I'm tempted to just replace the factory probe in the oil cooler adapter but I would have to find a way to make that one work somewhere else.

If it comes to replacement, remember the KN64 shares a tray and wiring with the KN62. The only difference is transmit power. I went from a 62 to a 64 in my 231 and have no problems.

It would be better than not changing it at all.

It looks like Mooney updated their website. I have been unable to download SB's, anyone else having problems?

The operating cost of a light twin doesn't sound so bad anymore does it? Seriously, a twin is not a difficult airplane to fly. It is all about your mentality. If you don't think your single is going to quit and it does, you'll probably end up on your back in the trees because you won't fly the airplane. It's the same in a twin. What is your engine failure procedure in a single? FLY THE AIRPLANE, switch tanks, fuel pump, check mags etc... It's the same in a twin. FLY THE AIRPLANE, mixtures, props, throttles, flaps up, gear up, FLY THE AIRPLANE, identify(dead foot dead engine), verify(pull suspected throttle to idle), feather, mixture, FLY THE AIRPLANE, single engine checklist. A turbine quits the same as a piston. I don't know if the TBM 900 is any better but a C414 will climb better in ice than a TBM 850. The inlet is too small and when the ice door is open you temp out too easily. There are plenty of examples of accidents in PC-12's or TBM's where the pilot flew into weather he normally wouldn't have because of the performance of that airplane. There are more examples of accidents in twins because they have been around a lot longer. In all honesty if you don't think you can fly a twin you definitely have no business flying a single turboprop in the weather over the rockies. I don't intend to step on any toes here but the concept that a turboprop single is inherently more safe than a high performance twin is just false.

Our family owned a 414 several years ago and we never had trouble using 100W. We sold half to another individual who insisted on using 15w-50 and it has had three turbos replaced in the last ten years. Not a scientific study but good enough for me. When you look at data for the 15w-50 the chart stops before you get to the temperatures it can see in a turbo bearing. I don't know if they have a good idea on how the synthetic component reacts to those high temps. My 231 lives in a heated hangar so I have never considered using multi-grade yet.

Thank you!

I have a friend with a '67 Exec that had always said it was a slow airplane. I flew it once and noticed the MP wouldn't go below 15 at any low RPM. I discovered that the small aluminum MP line had several spots where it was corroded through and when I tried to remove it the line broke into three different pieces. Needless to say that fixed his speed issue. Now he complains how much more gas it burns...

I just installed an overhauled mechanical gauge after getting rid of the Aerosonic MP/FF combo. No change from before. I have been trying to find out why my 231 is a little slower than what others are reporting. If I had a MP line leaking I would be going faster than normal as it would take more power to achive the same 32" on the gauge. I thought maybe the gauge had a leak in the aneroid, I haven't been up to altitude yet with the new gauge so it could be fixed.

You need to ask your instructor to teach you three-point landings, that is the way Citabria/Decathlon's are supposed to be flown. Three-point off and on. Easier in a crosswind too, they just become a two-point(main and tailwheel).

231 Owners/Pilots, What is your approximate MP at 1000-1200 RPM? Most engines will come down to around 10" but my -GB goes no lower than 17-18. Maybe it's a turbo thing, it has been a few years since I was flying the 414 so I don't really remember.

Continental Service Bulletin M75-6, Rev 1 addresses conversions from one model to another. FWIW, there are many owners with -GB engines that are getting along just fine.

Any specific reason for the overhaul?

The usual cause of this on continentals is not enough unmetered fuel pressure at idle when everything is heat-soaked.

Does anyone have a PIREP to share on the Shadin AMS-2000? I have a chance to get one for cheap and am wondering if it is worth my time to install it. I have gotten lazy flying fancy airplanes and would like an extra reminder in the Mooney. http://www.shadin.com/products/altitude-management/ams-2000

It is funny because it seems the 170s will outlast their replacement. There are tons of them around that were #2 radios and didn't get much use. I occasionally fly a friend's '67 Exec with the digital Narco and on cold mornings it takes 10-15 minutes for the display to start working. It is a tough decision though to stick money into a second NAV/COM when the NAV portion is barely used on the primary radio. Of course, the aliens could destroy our satellites one day...

Do you have a GS receiver for the Narco? If so, the non-GS KX155s can be had fairly cheap. Of course the ultimate CB would ditch that fancy digital radio for a KX170B...mine is still working great and I have two spares on the shelf.

Ammeters are about worthless in these airplanes. I am fortunate enough to have a low voltage light but I am glad to have a voltmeter in the UBG-16. Good job recognizing the failure.

It's chapter 32-60-03 in the M20K Service and maintenance manual. The older style(silver aluminum housing) has a set screw on the side that you loosen then the knurled nut around the wiring connector is turned to adjust the switch. The setting changes when you tighten the screw again so it takes a little time to get it right. I had to rotate the instrument to access the set screw on mine, yours may be in a more accessable location. PM me if you or your mechanic would like to talk.

The turbo owners need to remember that you need 1090ES above FL180. The GDL88 is UAT only but it works pretty good as an in/out solution for most guys.

Can you elaborate on your issues? There is a procedure for adjusting the switch in the SMM and I have done it once. It takes a few tries due to "hysteresis" in the switch but it is possible to adjust it in the airplane using a pitot/static test set or a calibrated mouth. The switch is supposed to activate the landing gear at an increasing airspeed of 75 +/- 5mph or 65 +/- 5kts. When I first picked up my 231 it would beep at me until 85kts on takeoff and was really annoying. It is a '79 as well so we probably have the same style switch. It is possible that the diaphragm is damaged though so if you could describe your issues it would help in diagnosing the issue.

Technically, the avionics relay is a normally closed relay. When you turn on the master it powers the relay open so the radios don't come on. When you turn on the avionics switch it kills the power to the relay and it closes, turning on the radios. That way if the spring contacts break inside the avionics switch, the radios stay on. Is this a new-to-you airplane or did you recently have the relay replaced? Or perhaps the switch?