Guitarmaster

I'll take the JPI... $150... [emoji12]

I would love to tell you more about the nose gear collapse but I simply don't know all the details. It happened before I owned the airplane. The broker that I bought it from said, "the over center spring broke.". Don't know though. In doing my best to piece together the incident from the log books, it seems that the aircraft landed, and nose gear collapsed and it veered off the runway. I'm afraid that's the best I can do.

Just passing information. No ax to grind here.

This is exactly the conclusion I came up with when looking for a four-place experimental. I love the Velocity, the RV.. not so much. Maybe I will go with a TBM-650. What do you guys think?

Put a manual pressure gauge on it. My cockpit indication was off by 20psi!

So i have had a problem with high oil pressure since I bought the plane. I mean, off the scale while in cruise flight high! A while back, I took the regulator out to find the ball was pitted and the spring was quite heavy. I installed a new ball and the "middle of the road" spring and the pressure dropped somewhat, but still high. Like, redline in cruise high. I finally put a manual gauge on the engine today and found my gauge was reading ~20psi high. Whew! Glad I put a manual gauge on it before doing anything else with the regulator! She runs about 79psi at 2400rpm with the engine warm. Idle is ~55psi. Perfect according to the shop. This makes me happy! Moral to the story? Don't trust your cockpit gauges (especially 40-year-old ones) for problem diagnosis! There may not even be a problem.

Hey guys. Spent a considerable amount of time at the engine shop on the field (c77) today. In light of all the discussion points about Camguard, different oils and the like, I thought I would share an opinion from someone that sees hundreds of engines a year from all over the world. First question I had was about oil analysts. He was not a big fan. He said it OK and if it makes you sleep better, by all means do it. You might have a "slight" advantage in catching a problem early, but any major issue will be apparent in the oil filter. Cutting and inspecting the oil filter is paramount. Along this lines I asked about my IO-360. As good as they come. RARELY a problem with anything but the cam., but here is the interesting part... Rust does not cause the cam failure. In other words, he has seen the cam completely rusted, but no spalling. I know this flies, so to speak, in the face of commonly held beliefs. He has seen engines from the '60's full of rust and the moving parts perfectly fine. The problem lies in the metallurgy of the '90's. I will do some follow-up, but there was a time period (early to mid 90's) where the metallurgy was crap. It was both a Lycoming and Continental problem. I'm not saying rust is good, but it doesn't appear to be the cause of cam failure. Mine was overhauled in '97 after a nose gear collapse. He is checking for me, but is pretty sure they had the problem resolved by then. Here's hoping! His opinion of Camguard: Whatever makes you feel better. They have seen no appreciable difference in engines that have come in for overhaul. I have two bottles for sale if you are interested. Synthetic or Blend oils: Run the other way! The shop's experience has been that Phillips 20-50XC gives the best results. I changed to this during the last oil change and my consumption seems to be nearly zero. The engine must like it. With Aeroshell W80, it was about 1qt/10 hours. Oversquare: His response? Are you nuts?? The ICP is HUGE! I made mention of turbo airplanes running like that. First, turbos have low compression pistons, but second, the wear on a turboed motor is "significant" compared to a N/A. This is the case even with a TN set-up. Take it for what it's worth. It made me feel WAY better about my motor.

Yep! Long ago as a young CFI, I did a departure stall in a C. Full power demonstration for the new owner. Hung on the prop for a bit then.... A couple burbles then BAM! Upside down and spinning in a FLASH! However, immediate forward pressure to reduce AOA effected recovery instantly. Nearly passed redline in the resulting dive. If you let a departure stall get to that point on takeoff, you're dead, but, it's pretty dramatic nose up and reasonable easy to recognize long before the break. It's a high performance airplane, not a trainer. IMHO it should be treated as such. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I have always treated mine like a three pointing taildragger. If you don't, it will act like a taildragger and ping pong down the runway. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Changed my technique a little after reading this. Adding the boost pump makes no more stalling on the first attempt at hot-start. [emoji106] Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Be careful with the exorcism. If done improperly, the demon will run somewhere else! Then, as Chris said, you may have to offer a financial sacrifice to rid yourself of it. [emoji53] Seriously, best of luck and please keep us posted! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

YES!! That is where I had mine done. It is "rebuilt." Funny thing though, the only part that was reused was a flange.... They do excellent work. Mine had several cracks including under the heat muff. Now, just like new. Cost was $1400. Well worth it!!

Push throttle forward, go faster and make more noise. Pull throttle back, go slower and make less noise.

IS this discussion in Latin?? Because I understand very little of what you are saying! LOL!

I have never heard of this until now. It sounds very interesting and makes total sense to me. one question, what is the electrolyte that produces the current? is it simply the humidity in the air? You have to have a path back to the aircraft for the electrons to flow. simply hanging it from the prop or exhaust does not seem to complete the circuit. What am I missing? With as weak an electrolyte as humidity, the material would have to be magnesium to work properly I would think. Since aluminum has -1.1v, zinc has -.6v and mag has -1.6v. It would make sense with an aluminum airplane so you would need to create a negative potential. Anything less it seems you turn the airplane into the anode and you have much bigger problems.

Set parking brake. Get out. Fling the prop while standing on one foot and sticking your tongue out. Turn on nav lights. Release parking brake Push aircraft across ramp at good clip. Jump in Pop clutch. Your results may vary. [emoji12]

It activates the cutout solenoid in the PC. The older ones don't have it, but the newer ones do. I will be installing said switch in a couple weeks. If you need the schematics, I can post them but Brittain will send them to you free of charge. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I would be installing it myself so the install cost would be low. Hmmmm...... What to do....

I like the EI gauges, I would have to redo the whole side panel to make it all fit though. As far as the EDM... I will have to up my crack sales to get one of those!

Yes, there is no doubt the engine is developing full power.

Shows about 22" engine off at 850msl. Shows about 23" at funpower... Ummm, full power. Will suck down to about 11" at idle. Very slow to respond to inputs. I will check connections, but I suspect the gauge is bad. I guess after 40 years this is to be expected.

It shows ambient pressure on the ground. Best it will do is 22" at full power. The fuel pressure side is not working either. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Update... Only shows 22" on ground engine off

It would seem my gremlin ran to the M.P. gauge. Does anybody have a recommendation for a rebuild? Quick fixes? I am thinking I will install a CGR30-p, but I really wanted to wait till Airventure to see if there are show discounts. Thanks! Matt Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Jersey? I'm here at KEWR right now.

Here it is... http://mooneyspace.com/topic/15390-bleeding-air-out-of-brakes/?hl=motorcycle