231MJ

As someone suggested, read the article several time - the suggestions are spot on. Make a note card you can refer to with the suggested power settings, they work. This is how I have flown my 231 with the MB engine since I got the plane. IMO, it's the best way to operate the aircraft (no disrespect to those that operate LOP). You will really enjoy the 252. Wish they were still building em.

I had the same leak on my turbo, also the TSIO 360MB engine. I took off both check valves and cleaned them in mineral spirits. 5 hours of flying and no leak. I had no other symptoms like oil coming out the exhaust or a lot of oil smoke on startup. Maybe try the low-cost simple stuff first. If that does not help, the expensive turbo overhaul is always an option. If it is a hose-end leak, this is a link to the del seal. I have not tried this, but others say they work. Del Fitting Seals Aluminum | Aircraft Spruce

I have not tried a ceramic coating on my cars or the airplane but I'm always trying new stuff that is easy to use and not too expensive. A few weeks ago I applied Chemical Guys High Gloss Sealant to the Mooney. It was easy to apply and brought out a nice shine. I'm sure it's not as good as a full ceramic treatment but it went on fast and not a lot of bucks ($20 on Amazon).

Pinecone, You recommended that in a different thread, so I bought the supplies last week and it's on my list to do this weekend. I'll keep you posted on the results. I hope it's a simple external leak because here are the costs of other possible solutions: turbo rebuild: $5,000-$8,000 turbo check valves (both): $3,000 Scavenger pump gears: $10,000 or more? I'll keep you posted.

Yea, I agree, a seal leak would fill the turbo with oil and it would blow out on start-up. I'll look again - the only external source could be the inlet line to the turbo and I didn't see a leak there but I'll check agian.

Is there a shop that is overhauling the turbo check valves? The spring on the return side check valve is really weak and I suspect it loses tension over time. Should be easy to replace for a shop. I have oil leaking out of the turbo but no oil coming out the exhaust so I suspect the check valve has a slow leak and it's getting by the turbo seals. Turbo oil leak.pdf

That's a great way to check the scavenger pump. Thanks for the idea. Last weekend I had fresh/clean oil dripping onto the hangar floor on the turbo side of the engine (oil was changed a few hours ago so it was still clean) and the nose gear was kinda soaked. Took off the cowling and found oil on the turbo side of the engine and oddly, the bottom of the turbo had oil on it but not on top. The waste gate had no oil on it. No oil dripping from the exhaust. No oil inside the induction side of the turbo. The pushrod tubes were resealed two years ago so I don't suspect they are the issue, plus a leak from there would not bet to the bottom of the turbo but not the top. I washed the engine (several times) and will test run next weekend to see if I can find the leak. Are there any shops that are overhauling the check valves?

My throttle is a little stiff. I asked McFarlane if they could recondition/lube mine. No was the answer - you need to buy a new one. (But I'm not really sure if the cable is lubed or just the vernier mechanism). Crazy.

It's a bulb holder that goes on the underside of the glare shield. I need one...

Four years ago my panel was 75 hours @ $110/hour and I took out ALL the interior. No AP but it was pre-wired for the AP. Removing all the old wiring is very time consuming and if it's done wrong re-wiring is required - my shop knows... I thought it was very reasonable, and I doubt this pricing is available today. Dynon does simplify the wiring with the network hubs and pre-wired cables but it's still a lot of work to connect the GPS, audio panel, nav/com, etc. My view, $15,000 to install the panel shown on the Dynon website is reasonable. I think Dynon v. Garmin is like Pepsi and Coke. I like Dynon and Pepsi and I would do Dynon again, even with the wait for the AP. (I hope the upload of my panel works - I seem to mess it up most of the time)

Thanks for the encouragement, Cliffy. I want to confirm we're talking about the Dynon autopilot and not the Bendix King Aerocruze 100?

Is anyone going to do the install with the help of an A&P? The mechanicals look straightforward, the programing may be a bit of a challenge (for me).

Lance, What were all those suction cups for?

I had faith and while I was getting a little anxious lately, I'm now very glad I went Dynon. The day it was approved I got a personal call from Dynon with the news. And it's 3-axis! I kept the Century II electric trim when the rest of the Century electronics were removed for the Dynon install so that will integrate well with the Dynon system. I feel bad for the short-body owners but perhaps now that the mid-body is approved, the short-body will come faster.

I heard from someone that was at Oshkosh and talked to a Dynon rep that the documentation has been submitted to the FAA and now waiting approval. I'm not sure if that means a signature and all is good to go or if a signature leads to the next step. In any case, I'm hanging in there...