I do have the MB with two alternators and the belt driven alternator does need to come out first but that's really easy. I didn't think Himark had the MB engine so I did not mention that. It is the Husky ratcheting wrench I used - the head is thinner and the throw on the wrench is tighter (I don't know how to explain that very well) so it's kinda perfect for that third bolt. Getting the alternator out is a pain and you need to be careful re-attaching the cables, I cracked the brush holder once - $250 for that baby.
I have removed the left mag and taken it out of the top. If I remember right, the nut on the left side is a bear to get off. I have found the ratcheting wrench from Home Depot (forgot the name of their brand) to be thin enough to get into that space. I think the others two are not hard to get at. Replacing the coupling is a good idea if you don't know it's history.
I'll also add a +1 for Jake at Bevan. He repaired (or supervised the repair) of my pitch trim servo and walked me through the identification of the connectors that Century used long ago. Super helpful, always took my call, responded to all my emails and just a real pleasant guy.
Oh crap. Maybe it's in stealth mode for the flight tests?? In any case, thanks for the bubble burst and back to reality. 2025 it is. Those of us flying Dynon are just getting better and better at hand flying.
I ran across this video about the Dynon factory. At the end of the video, they talk about the AP certification process and the J model testbed is prominently shown in the background. So something is really going on! Maybe it will happen in 2024... Has anyone heard how close it might be?
Behind The Scenes at Dynon Avionics HQ (youtube.com)
I ordered the hose that goes from the waste gate to the controller by mistake. The part # is 124F001-6CR0330, see attached documentation. This is for a TSIO360-MB engine. Hose was never installed. You can have the hose at no cost if you pay $20 for shipping (what a deal!).
Start on the tank when I shut down. After start, switch to the fullest tank then taxi, run-up, etc. Then I know there is no issue with fuel flow. If I start on the fullest tank, I just keep it there. Others will disagree with this...but in any case, switching right before take-off seems to come with some risk. Let the debate begin.
+100 for Hector. Incredible work, don't risk going somewhere else. I sent him all the components and then reinstalled myself - that might save some time.
Complete System. Working when removed.
All of it for $20.00 (about the cost of shipping)
Note: I live in CA so never really needed it. However, on my way to Oshkosh one year, over Denver at 17.5, it REALLY came in handy.
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