Ragsf15e

Dumb question, but will one of you guys with a “vintage” airplane post a picture of the back of your nose truss/steering horn assembly please? Thanks.

Looks like I’ve got some work to do. Glad it stayed on 19 years!

There’s a firefighting tfr near astoria that is showing on g1000 with xm. How about your system?

I believe you guys, and parts manual has a cotter pin. Check out my picture below. This has been on there since 2003 when “new lasar steering horn (old style) installed” No pin.

Do you happen to remember a couple specifics.. I have the Mooney part number of the bushing that the AN4-21 bolt goes through (left side of my picture), but I can't find a standard part number for it. Any idea where you got it? (914020-031). The parts manual calls out a cotter pin as part of that bolt, bushing, washer assembly, Mine doesn't currently seem to have one, just a nylon locking nut? Do you remember if you did? If so, was it a castle nut and drilled AN4-21 instead of undrilled? As Doc mentioned, there are several SBs and upgrades, so I'm trying to figure out which version I have and what parts I have before taking it all apart. It could be a problem to figure that out and/or to find the parts.

For such a “simple” job, I’ve seen a lot of comments that include blood, cursing and contortion.

Yep, it looked like it moved in each of the areas you said. I’m going to have to prep my mechanic for this… not sure how long (if ever) it’s been since he’s taken apart one of these. Thanks.

I played with my nose truss this morning before flying. With the nose solidly on the ground, I’ve circled where there appears to be some play. The video link shows me moving around that part while the nose wheel isn’t moving. Anyone know if this is probably just bushings and shims? I plan to look closer up on jacks at the upcoming annual. Thanks, Drew https://photos.app.goo.gl/m4UzQPg7vC3k9Zb46

It’s really easy except when it’s not. I definitely recommend going back first after pulling the aft pin. Then forward and off. Ive had mine on and off four times. Three times they came off with minimal blood/cursing. Three times they went back on ok too. Once they were pretty much stuck like yours after putting them back on. Took forever to get them back off, checked, carefully put back and they magically worked. No idea what had stuck them. Go slow, be patient, expect a challenge more difficult than it should be (which isn’t much but can be frustrating). Try not to bleed on your carpet too much.

So #4 was about Carson speed for you? If so, it seems like it’s in a reasonable place?

Some of them are welded into the tubes (gear i think?) and they are a little harder to do without involving mooney… we had a thread around here in the last year about that. The ones that are removable are standard part as suggested above.

Wow, @DonMuncy , those look amazing!

So what’s the wait time on them? Getting new or OH lyc cylinders has been 6+ months at many shops…

I currently have an stec 30a which is 2 axis, no trim. It annunciates required trim similarly. If you just want to use the airplane for long vfr cross country and the occasional approach, it’s fine without the auto trim. Thats how I use my airplane, and it’s just fine to help out in occasional ifr / imc. If you use it in imc a lot and fly a reasonable number of approaches and use it in busy airspace, I’d get the auto trim and give yourself one less thing to worry about.

Thanks. That did it. I made the mistake of looking under “nose wheel assembly” and “rigging nose wheel steering”. Those parts aren’t in those sections of my parts manual. Based on your attachment, I looked under “flight controls, rudder and nose wheel steering”, and there it was! My diagram isn’t as good as yours, so thank you. Nice meeting you today Skip! Drew

Do any of you guys know exactly where I can find information and diagrams on the steering “shims or bushings”? My nose wheel is starting to get a decent amount of play in it and id like to read about it and possibly order any parts before the annual in January. I’m hoping it is something less than a new steering horn/truss. My maintenance manual has no info on play in the steering. Parts manual shows several places with shims and bushings but isn’t specific?

Speed is pretty dependent on load too. If you’re 1 person and 30 gal of fuel that’s 5kts or more difference than gross. I only get 150ktas on my F ROP, ~6500’, cool temps, and light weight.

I’m just saying this because you didn’t draw the distinction above and it can become dangerous, I know you know this pitfall, but you’ve got to be careful saying it… if you load an approach (say on radar vectors) and then enter direct to the FAF (as you say “just go Direct to an approach waypoint”), your hsi will center up and give you steering direct to the faf. You will also have distance to the faf. It can very easily look like you’re “established on the approach” when in fact you’re way off of the course into the faf. Depending on clearance, I have seen people descend to faf altitude because it looks very much like they are established. Using vtf or activating the leg into the faf are much better.

Yes, I’d agree with that. You do have to “activate” it somehow if you want the automated switching to vloc, but yes, there are different ways to “activate”.

I believe you must “activate the approach” first for auto switching to occur. Here’s the paragraph just previous to your 430w page…

I’m a little curious what you meant about an auto switch to vloc based on proximity, etc. I agree that will happen if you are established on the approach from an earlier point or leg, but I think the scenario we were talking about is while getting vectors nearing a final intercept. You can certainly fly an ILS approach without hitting activate VTF on the gps, but you will have to set the gps point to the faf if you want distance and you’ll have to manually switch your hsi to vloc prior to intercepting final. Maybe I’m wrong though? I learn something new everyday…

I also use the vtf mode and haven’t run into a problem, however I will load a full approach from a convenient iaf so that i have all the points initially. Sometimes I’ll get sent to one of those. Once tge start giving vectors, I’ll “activate VTF” to set up that last portion.

No because the bar is connected to it and you keep it from doing that while steering.

I agree if you suspect an AP problem, level isn’t good. I thought we were more talking of those times when you wondered, “why is it going that way?” In those cases, as long as you haven’t identified a problem, the AP is most likely faithfully following your error in setting it wrong. Level gives you a safe mode from which to re-setup the system correctly. And you won’t end up in an unusual attitude troubleshooting. Maybe one of the airline guys can chime in on their procedures. Typically I think they fix the AP settings instead of disconnecting when possible. Depending on the system there are a few other helpful things the GPS might do when you activate an approach it as well. If set to VTF, you get the FAF with the course line “obs” straight out for your intercept. On some you also get switched to VLOC on your hsi. Like you said, you can fly the approach without hitting activate on the gps, but you will need to do some of these things yourself.

Some people need wider seat bottoms than others…