Ragsf15e

They do have some kind of internal regulator for charging, so hopefully that isn’t a problem, but yeah, im gonna watch and wait before sticking one of those in my airplane. It feels like a solution in search of a problem. I have my concorde capacity checked each annual and replace it ~5 years. Pretty simple.

Best fix I’ve ever seen for an AOG!

Gill has a newer battery but it’s similar to Concords. There’s also an earthx lithium approved but there’s been a strong debate on MS about whether it’s better because it hold half the amp hours. It is much lighter and more expensive. Personally, I find it hard to change off the Concord that lasts reliably 4-5 years and is relatively inexpensive.

That’s got to be wrong. The w/b requires offsets from the measurement points iaw the manual. No way they did it right. My F with a 3 blade is 45inches!

I hope you’re still making the trip today, you got a beautiful day for it!

sorry it’s at night, so harder to see how everything fits. I liked your key, master and autopilot positions!

@ArrowBerry He’s already got the G5s and the gps, otherwise-275s be good, but with his plan of removing the adfs and reorganization, he’s looking pretty good! He’s also correct about the g5s not being able to display the vor/ils from his #2 radio since they are not digital and it’s already connected to his gps (1 source limit if second source isn’t digital, and must have gfc500). 1. Where’s the transponder? 2. I have 2 g5s stacked but they aren’t flush and they are slightly right of the yoke center. You don’t notice that when flying. Fit might be tough flush and center. 3. I suspect (but don’t know) that it’s going to be really tough to fit those 5 items in the middle stack. Id highly recommend measuring very carefully. 4. A used sl30 might solve a couple problems. It is a slimmer radio and it’s digital, so you could connect it to your g5 HSI and get rid of the vor obs. It might also fit better as radio 1. You could then keep 1 of your old radios as a spare. good luck!

I think there’s a Mooney knowledgeable guy down at KDWH that you might be able to get to drive up and help you. Possibly someone here remembers his name? Someone else here keeps their airplane at David Wayne Hooks….

Exactly what Skip said. Measure field at the vr. If 0 there, measure voltage coming into the vr sense line. You’re looking at a broken connection somewhere…

Definitely check the field voltage at the alternator with master on, engine off. Should be just less than 12v. While you’re there, check the connections to the alternator. Wiggle them.

Yes, the winter weather up here has taken me a long time to figure out as well. If you’re flying Friday afternoon, you probably have a good chance to be vfr the whole way no problem. When the winter weather here is “partly cloudy”, that means broken at 1000’ (or less) though. The temp and dew point are so close together and there’s no energy in the low sun that fog and low stratus are the norm during “good weather”. Depending on lots of random factors, there’s sometimes light rime in there too so I avoid it unless I get a pirep of negative icing. On the plus side, any layer will likely be only a 1000’ thick and beautiful on top. So I don’t think you’ll know 100% until the morning of, klws is a good backup, there’s not much between klws and boise, and Salt Lake and Seattle centers have poor-ish radio coverage between there too (and it’s where the center border is). That said, it’s beautiful. Land before 4pm because it gets dark fast and kpuw is in a bit of a bowl of rolling “paluse”.

12v in the baggage, solid idea!

Exactly how I plan. Start with direct, then adjust just like you did. I fly ogden to Spokane a lot and your route is almost exactly like mine. I cut the edge of the valley maybe 10 miles north of Boise, but almost exactly the same. Just be careful about the weather this time of year. Lots of fog/freezing fog in kpuw. Klws is almost always better if kpuw is bad.

Yes for sure. My wife and I both have pulse oximeters. I dont think a concentrator is gonna work much above about 15k for me, but it’s been great from 9-12,500 since I’ve been using it. Around 10k I’m at 90% or maybe even 88% without it, but Above 95% with it even on a low setting. It has 6 settings, I haven’t had to use anything above 4 yet to keep myself above 95%. Higher settings do use the battery faster for sure. At 10500, my wife and I both used it for 3+ hours on setting 3 and were both upper 90s. It’s nice for NA airplanes on long flights where you might normally feel fatigued, because that’s eliminated with a good O2 sat. Its designed for 1 person, so 2 people isn’t perfect, but it’s been fine so far 10-12,000. Powering it is difficult if you want to plug it into the cigar lighter because it draws like 120watts and mine is only 60, so I’ve been battery only which is about 4 hours max.

Another good oxygen option (admittedly more $$) is the inogen g5 concentrator. It’s almost $2k but doesn’t need refills and works great for 1 or even 2 people (with splitter tubes) at NA altitudes.

Yes, an Aerox system with oxy saver cannulas like @wombat posted would be perfect. It lasts a long time. There are lots of places that can fill it, but you have to search around because some will charge $30 and some will charge 200. Highly portable and works well. Bring an oximeter from Amazon. They are cheap and work well. I found Ogden Utah a reasonable stop with good fbo options. Maybe hangar space for you? Be careful of the busy airspace around Salt Lake Hill, Air Force Base, and all the military ranges.

It doesn’t cost much more but there can be stipulations with smooth. I asked about it this year and it was only a few hundred bucks but it required a yearly ipc in type. Not a huge deal, but it’s there.

Yes, you probably won’t notice it much unless you do a mag check at cruise altitude above ~7,000’. If you’re running peak or leaner it might get your attention as the SF is basically doing all the work and switching to the mag it will get rough and you’ll see your speed dropping off(depending on how lean or high you were). You can tell the advance is doing something.

It’s definitely doable but you’ll have to watch the fronts coming through. Crossing is easier North of Colorado, then south into Utah and across to Reno, and then into central California. Having oxygen is really nice. You won’t need to cruise above 14,000, but you’ll definitely be above 10,000 for a long time. If it’s really cold and/or the weather is bad, south of Colorado is a great option. It might depend on where in California you’re headed. If you stop overnight, make sure you have a preheat plan. Take some winter survival gear because utah/nevada is remote!

Did you use the timing advance?

Sometimes you’ll find minor irritations if you don’t fully integrate display types from one brand. My example is jpi/garmin and the oat temp probe… you need two temp probes if you want the temp on your engine instruments and TAS/winds displayed on your pfd if you’re using a jpi as primary and a g5/g3x. If you go all garmin, it will share it within the system from one probe. I suspect there are similar limitations with fuel quantity, fuel flow, and warnings.

Occasionally people get lucky and it’s a bad battery, alternator or vr. More typically, these electrical gremlins take some reasonable troubleshooting with a digital voltmeter. Replacing parts before really nailing down the problem can get costly and frustrating. Ask me how I learned that one!

Normal! That was a good, cheap fix!

After getting to a safe altitude, most people transition to a cruise climb for better cooling and visibility. Around 115-120mph. Less rudder will be required than at initial takeoff/climb. You will find the caution range unavoidable for some parts of instrument approaches and vfr patterns. I just try to minimize it when possible.

We put in a connection kit for a battery minder at the same time. It was nice to have everything open to route the connection into the baggage compartment.