Ragsf15e

Just do the aeromotors. They come back much better than the original dukes. I also think there’s some slight mounting bracket modifications to switch to the weldon.

Would an analyst comment on your old data with a prospective buyer without your permission? Because that would seem wrong without permission. I’d have nothing to hide, but it is my data.

I’d definitely be upset with them for that. Even an analyst talking to a prospective buyer about MY data would bug me. Like you, I have nothing to hide, but they at least need to ask and make clear what is being shared. Sharing should not be the default.

Someone has done it. It’s possible, but there are a couple that have collapsed due to not locking properly or having a worn out lock or ?? The electric gear is relatively bulletproof when properly maintained. Pick your poison…

Ahh yes, that was a well known good place. Word is George retired.

Good question. Apparently mine came from lasar but that doesn’t say who manufactured them. Here’s the writeup. Apparently they were part of a Mooney kit?

Do you use a pulse ox just to see?

I think you’ll find very little loss of simple mental tasks and you probably won’t notice a lack of judgment. You likely won’t have significant hypoxia like people talk about in the altitude chamber if you’re just cruising at 10-12k even though there’s likely some degradation there. You’ll really need to use a pulseox repeatedly to see the dip. What you’re most likely to notice is the change in fatigue after (or even during) a flight. Those yawns you mention? Sure you’re not tired? How do you feel in the evening after a long flight, maybe a little tired? O2 makes a huge difference there.

Sounds like you were using a pulse ox which is good, but I find it very unlikely that your pulse ox was above low 90s at 11,000 feet without O2 Unless you live at very high elevation. I fly a lot out west and we are all affected differently, but I see mine decreasing starting around 8000. If I cruise at 11,000 for a long time, I’ll probably be sitting high 80s low 90s. standby oxygen or I use an oxygen concentrator is very helpful. Maybe try a couple different fingers?

I’m not so sure about all that. Yes, clearly there’s people who want to get rid of the 100ll, but 91/94 isn’t an answer as there are lots of aircraft it’s not certified for and the faa isn’t going to just wave a magic certification wand to make it “ok”. There are plenty of engines that won’t work as designed with lower octane without some kind of adjustment and recertification. So I don’t agree that 91/94 is destiny. Now there may be some crafty local politicians who find a way to effectively ban 100ll and 91/94 might be the only option for those that can use it legally, but I think banning 100ll is a lot harder when there’s no currently available certified alternative. 100 gami UL seems like it would fix this issue but it’s stuck in distribution hell.

I had a set of 20/1 wear out too. I think they were original but not certain. If so they were 48 years old and ~5500 hours. I was lucky as well and got a new set of 40/1s in 2015.

So here we are today in my lowly F at 14,500’ to stay on top and out of the bumps below. All 4 of us on oxygen because we cruised there for an hour or so. We were about 200lbs below mgw as we climbed up and climb was anemic between 12500-14500, but she still cruised ~140kts at 100rop and 2500rpm. It does much better if there’s less weight.

I have exactly your setup. I didn’t change hot start technique at all with the SF. It fires maybe one or two blades earlier but otherwise it’s the same as before. If you “miss” a hot start, you might still have to go to the flooded procedure. That only happens to me about once a year or so. Your previous technique is exactly what I use/used. And you didn’t say, but the SF is on the left, correct?

Yeah that’s a good one, or even the door on a cessna as it’s easy to close. The dpe is supposed to do something distracting (like barfing on takeoff or talking a lot), so seems like practing that is good.

Was it difficult to change between the two actuators? Did you have to change out the emergency crank setup too? It would be comforting to know there’s a solution in case the Dukes fails or the gears are bad.

A cigar plug voltmeter/usb combo is comforting if you’re ever concerned. I got an amazon one and it shows current V on the bus. It stays pretty steady at 14.0 for me. Heres the thing about the ammeter in the Mooney, the way it’s designed is only to show the charge/discharge from the battery. So it should normally show slightly positive charge even if you have everything turned on (assuming alternator is on). If the alternator dies, then it will show significant discharge and it will depend on what’s turned on. An easier number to interpret is the bus voltage which will be 14ish with the alternator on and 12.3ish with only battery online.

The writeup he quoted from his engine said the hoses were teflon/silicone so he should be ok…

Yeah, im hoping that’s new carpet because it looks fantastic compared to mine.

Replacing old hoses might be separate from your issue (and might not be an issue since yours are teflon). The theory is that the fuel psi bobbles around when air bubbles get in the lines. I’m guessing that would normally happen at a joint. It might be a very small air leak that isn’t actually leaking fuel yet. Could also be from heat causing fuel to vaporize and fluctuate pressure. There are a lot of theories. Lots of people with electronic engine monitors see this activity. Some find help with a snubber. Usually you don’t see it on a mechanical gage. The thing that scares me is deciding that it’s normal and missing something that might be important. Unfortunately, troubleshooting it isn’t simple either. Trust me, I’ve tried…

Not sure if they’ll keep them or help, but Tom Rauch at Top Gun in Sacramento or Don Maxwell in Longview might have an old set laying around. You might also be able to find an old set of 20/1 at a junkyard. Maybe Beegles or @Alan Fox might have a non airworthy one?

Are you sure you’re getting enough fuel flow on takeoff? Here’s the real point, at very high power, the SF doesn’t provide any advance. So it’s unlikely that it’s causing your higher temps unless something else isn’t set up right. Now they use to publish an advance map, that showed advanced timing kicking in around 5,000’, so, roughly around 75% power and then slowly increasing as power is reduced by thinner air at altitude. It’s unlikely that the SF is causing higher temps in the climb unless the initial timing on them isn’t set right or something else isn’t (like fuel flow). I only have one SF, and a smaller engine, so this isn’t a good comparison, but it’s hard to see any difference in temps unless I compare ROP cruise data at ~10,000’, and then it’s only like 10 degrees warmer.

A K in hot weather at mgw (admittedly at sea level) might seem a bit underpowered, so if you get slow and low and behind, it’s gonna be tougher to overcome that with extra power.

I’d maybe consider it in training, but I think a thorough ground discussion with a new mooney pilot would suffice. I’m actually glad I didn’t have instruction on how to close the door when mine popped. I didn’t close it right and the top latch wasn’t done. I took off from some lonely, hot, high New Mexico airfield at mgw. The top of the door was open a bit and noticeably loud. The airplane was flying like a fully loaded pig at high-ish DA. I thought it wouldn’t be tough, so I opened the door and tried to close it at say pattern altitude. No dice. Just as @Greg Ellis said, it was pretty solid at 1-2” open. Now I didn’t get slower than ~100kts and I’m happy about that. I’m guessing if you get slow enough, you can close it. Also a little slip and possibly even the storm window open. Now the reason I’m glad I didn’t know all that was because I didn’t do any of it. I just flew to my destination with a louder and more drafty airplane. I think it’s probably fine to do how @N201MKTurbo did at cruise altitude (night stalls might be a stretch), but I certainly wouldn’t want people slowing to just above stall, heavy, low, maybe some yaw, distracted - you see where this goes. I think the best thing is to know that it can be hard to close, it’s possible at slow speeds, it flys just fine with the door open, it won’t open far, and you shouldn’t mess with it unless you have knowledge and altitude. And it helps if you’re bulletproof as @N201MKTurbo suggests.

Certainly out west it’s nice to cruise in the mid teens on occasion. Don’t plan on it max gross weight. You can probably get there but the climb is slow and the cruise feels mushy. One or two occupants in a light plane with cool temperatures, it’s definitely an option. Rich of peak and 2500 RPM will be your friends.

Also, if you’re airplane has a different prop stc, that could have a different yellow arc restriction. What prop do you have?