Ragsf15e

I guess that’s my point, if you (or anyone else) can do it for less and thus make a “reasonable” profit, you (or someone else) will do it. Since I don’t see anyone else doing it and am not holding my breath on you doing it, I’m happy Lasar has taken up supporting the airframe.

Hopefully they actually get delivered to those that need them. I ordered one of the E/F intake ducts from Lasar last December. Paid the deposit and the estimated 6 months is well past, I have yet to hear anything. I’m glad I wasn’t grounded for that part! I’m with @N201MKTurbo on this one, I'm glad it’s (probably) available.

Nobody mentioned working inside the wing (or tailcone - which requires hiring a very light midget with small feet) to build a shelf for the magnometor or removing/replacing all the pilots side interior. Those can take some time to do right depending on the airplane. My 2 G5s connected to gns430w and autopilot were about $12k in 2020, so these estimates seem reasonable?

Anything “engine related” with the electric boost pump? There are a couple of lower panels that have control rods going through them. Definitely check the carpet type stuff first, but if that’s not it, I’d definitely find out exactly which panels came off…

Last time someone had a similar issue it turned out to be carpet in the copilot footwell. Has any maintenance been done since last flights?

One other aspect of the starting ignition system that is often overlooked… is your sos strong? They don’t often fail, but they’re also not looked at very often. I didn’t see anyone mention this, but I think a 1970 F has the sos vs an impulse coupled mag. If your sos is getting weak, you could still have spark, a good mag, good plugs, but not as strong as it should be (maybe it’s corroded after 50 years). Just saying that might be something to consider.

Mine is the same. While not terribly difficult, it will require removing the seat on that side, side panel, lower carpet panel. Since you’re going to try to get the sender back on and sealed properly, it’s well worth taking the time to get a good working space available. You don’t want a fuel leak in the cockpit or to have to go back in later.

Yeah they wouldn’t reseal mine because it was past its oh time too. So it’s oh, but was definitely more than $1500! To the OP, mine misted my windscreen too, but I got lucky and that started about 3 weeks before i was down for annual anyway.

I think you’re going to find most people cruising higher than 3500’ which makes it a little easier/safer to go wot lean of peak because mp (power) will be down some already. You probably won’t need the full 50lop at higher altitudes (because you’ll already have lower power). It will also depend on how even your fuel distribution is. No matter what, you’re just making sure the last cylinder gets to lop and then look at the CHTs. You can fine tune your mixture to keep a comfortable cht. At that point, leaner is cooler, richer is warmer/faster. You mentioned 145KIAS… did you mean KTAS? Most guys Ive talked to seem to get around 165-170KTAS ON 12.5-13gph up around 9,000’ or so.

It works well and they enjoy the trips, so no complaints from me. However sometimes I wish they’d look outside more and enjoy the flying. I still remember crossing the Rockies as a 10 yo with my dad in a ragged out 172 while we listened to John Denver on the adf through the speaker and tried to guess exactly where we were on the (very) outdated sectional. Getting kids interested in the bigger picture is hard, but GA seems like it should still be amazing to them!

I cross the Cascades and Nevada’s Great Basin a lot, so I take at least a gallon of water, light sleeping bag, and a pretty thorough survival kit. Basically Im planning on spending at least one night out if I am forced down somewhere remote. We carry more water for drinking during flights as it’s easy to get dehydrated. Between water and oxygen (and travel johns), my wife and I feel so much better after long flights now (3:45-4:45). For my kids (8 yo) we have plane friendly snacks, treats (like some licorice), water (sealed sippy cups), and kindles which plug directly into their headsets. At home they don’t get much (any?) screen time, so they really enjoy watching a movie or a few shows on long cross country. They were great on a 600nm non stop this summer.

Yeah the people and sense of belonging to something bigger are some of the reasons I ended up staying for 20. Never intended that. They are also intangibles and hard to describe to others from the outside. I didn’t even recognize as much as I should have until I got out.

Yeah I agree those ones are good. They are tough to come by though. Try applying for a turbine pic job hauling pax with 400 hours and zero turbine time. That’s a tough sell. Now flying a caravan for a fedex feeder as a pic is definitely possible. The other one you mentioned is a terrific path if you can find it - sic in a turbine airplane that requires it. That’s key though, if you’re flying right seat in a single pilot airplane, you’re not a required crew member so you should only log the time you’re actually flying. If you can get on a Lear or other two crew member airplane, that’s solid. Again, can be a tough sell but it does happen.

You also need to consider how you get the magic 1500 hours. Paying $200/hour for all that gets you zero turbine time and not much twin or complex, and it costs a whole lot. I see people take 3 routes these days - instructing, cargo/crop dusting/banner, and the military. None of those options is easy. CFI might be the quickest if you’re in a busy school but it’s not easy. Military requires 10 years after training but it’s top notch flying, training and it pays well. Obviously military isn’t for everyone. If a person likes the thought of military flying, I think that’s a good option. If not, I recommend an aviation four year college like Embry Riddle or Central Washington or North Dakota. You get a degree, CFI, good training, and some experience. I highly recommend thinking through the route to ATP prior to starting flying if you’re doing it as a career.

G3X-II. “Inexpensive” Glass, Part Deux!

I use 2700 for takeoff and all the climb until I level off, then I normally use 2500. You can try 2400-2600 to see what works best for your prop/smoothness. Realize that backing off the rpm will slow you down some as it’s effectively reducing power. I’m usually going somewhere far-ish when I fly, so I use just lean of peak or peak to get the most speed and efficiency out of my fuel. That being said, if you’re up above about 11000’ or higher, getting the most power possible from your engine is probably what you’ll want, so something like 100rop.

The poh power settings are a starting place but we’ve learned a lot about operating these engines efficiently and safely over the past 50 years. If you have an engine monitor that shows all 4 CHTs and EGTs, lean of peak is going to be your best bet. My ‘68F poh mentions peak egt as “economy” and that works fine up high where you have pretty low power from the thin air anyway. So if you have an engine monitor, at those altitudes (which are where i fly) try lean of peak. You need to ensure you’re just barely lean of the LAST cylinder to peak. Then check your CHTs. You’ll findd they are cooler than rich of peak and you are a couple (3ish kts) slower on ~8.8gph compared to your previous 11ish gph. You can look up the APS course or all the threads on lean of peak ops. For engine health, keep chts at least below 400 long term. Cruise less than 380 is what i use. Lean of peak that is usually easy. Yes, airflow efficiency is max at wide open throttle and if you’re lean of peak, that really helps efficiency too.

You really can’t talk power settings without the rpm, altitude and mixture. It sounds like you might be flying really low? Maybe pulling it way back is reasonable down low, but in general, if you want efficiency and don’t care about speed, roll the prop back 2400 or lower and pull the mixture back to lean of peak or farther (if you’re not going anywhere). The airflow at wot is the most efficient. If you’re not already lean of peak and prop back, pulling the throttle wouldn’t be my first choice.

Yeah, agreed. When i was saying “grass” I just meant that if I turned around, Im not super concerned about getting on a runway. Im just trying to put it somewhere on the airfield “grass” as there’s not many obstructions there by design.

She looks beautiful. Any idea from shipping it previously as to how much it costs getting back to the states? Someone will also have to go through the US import/registration process since she’s not N registered…

Interesting, my comment of ending up short was based on the adsb track ending short (see the initial post above), but that could just be the last data point, not where the flight actually ended. Impossible turn is tough for so many reasons. If you actually make the turn, then you have to make additional turns to line up with a runway and potentially land downwind which ends in much more groundspeed to dissipate. It’s not easy. My home airport also has nowhere to land after takeoff (industrial area). If I turn around (~1000’ min), Im just planning to get it somewhere on the airfield. Grass would be fine.

+1 to ~1100 to 1200 idle. No boost, no mixture. It should fire. Is your ignition system solid? If that doesn’t work, I might try a short prime, then crank it. I say this because you were stopped for such a short time, maybe it didn’t fully cook off the fuel and drain into the cylinder. If that doesn’t work, then yes youre flooded. I very rarely do a flooded start, but when i do, I start with full throttle, mix ico. As soon as it starts cranking, I slowly pull the throttle back. Typically it fires around midway back.

Fair enough. Well hopefully there’s a way to mute that thing! The switched output seems reasonable.

What adsb in do you have? And why isn’t it connected to your 430w? Im asking because you said your traffic isn’t plotted on there very accurately, but adsb traffic is on my 430. This is maybe more work, but if you do in fact have adsb in, have it wired to the 430 and ditch the ryan.

Agreed. I was messing with you, but your initial post says “see the magnet sticking to the weight”. That would make them the bad weights and I think the IA doesn’t need to sign off anything…