Ragsf15e

Depending on what they’re configuring that to (AP, other radios, etc), that’s pretty reasonable. Dual G5s by themselves typically run more than $10k.

Long term it would be nice to get a standard layout on the left side with your adi/pfd above an hsi. That’s not requiring, but definitely want that when you decide to do more than just a gps.

I’m no mechanic, so take this for the free advice it is… have them confirm the timing. My right mag was advanced recently and it would barely drop. Maybe 20 rpm. At the annual my mechanic found the timing out of whack by like 6 degrees, fixed that and now it’s normal.

Interesting that your poh calls for 2000rpm? My mag check (IO-360A1A) is 1700rpm. Did the shop double check the timing?

Do you just lay some rtv “impregnated” cloth over the outside of the hole and then secure it down with more rtv over the outside of the hole? The rtv sticks to the outside of the boot good enough that the patch doesn’t get sucked in?

Yeah, it definitely wouldn’t be me rocking that boat! I just don’t want to get my hopes up that someone will help us if it’s not possible..

So how would Mcfarlane build all these different parts without the Mooney factory handing them the specs for each?

Not sure if the ones for the F are any different, but that’s one of the few parts that worries me!

Interesting, my rails have a hole through the back as well for a cotter pin to stop the seat. Mine is on the rail closest to the trim wheel.

My personal thoughts are 2 comms, 1 gps and 1 nav radio are enough for ifr these days. I do not want the nav and gps on the same box though. So my personal dream option (without just putting in several -650txi $$) has a gnc-355 (gps/com) and an sl-30 or gnc-225 (nav/com). You can certainly still have a failure that takes out everything, but one box going out still leaves a solid precision* approach capability and comm radio in the other box. *For whatever reason, LPV approaches on WAAS gps aren’t considered “precision” but they generally have the same mins as an ILS, so are comparable.

Interesting to hear what people say, but the way I understand it, they only support it until they run out of parts. You should expect that they still have everything now, but probably not much longer. Have your shop write up the buttons and the screen issues so there’s no doubt.

You’ll probably get a lot of opinions, but sending it in for the $1500ish flat rate isn’t terrible in my opinion. You end up with essentially a new unit and they tend to last for a long time. When you look at that vs a new one, I would probably just send it in and expect it to be great for another 15 years.

Excellent job. Just practiced yesterday in my Mooney.

If your radio fails in flight and you try to claim it, no dice. If a bird comes through your window and takes out your radio (tough, I know), you’ll be compensated for the damage, including the radio. If your engine fails in flight and you glide in to a runway without damage, no claim exists. If you have some kind of non-mechanical failure of the engine, say a bird down the intake, the engine damage and subsequent damage from whatever kind of landing is covered. As stated above, you could potentially have a warranty from lycoming (or Garmin) or someone else that might cover mechanical failure.

First part yes, but more than a couple psi. It’s pretty random, but say 17-31psi. Seems higher on takeoff power, but not largely different. Boost pump has no effect. Yes. I ran the BP with mixture mid range and it achieved and held 24psi as fuel flowed. No fluctuating. Yes, boost pump sounds normal except for the rhythmic part but pressure didn’t seem to fluctuate. I haven’t tried to listen to the BP with the engine running, but Ill try it next time out. I wonder if I’ll be able to hear it? I’ll also download the newest pressure fluctuations in the different conditions. Thanks for helping get my story straight!

The mech fuel pump on mine seems to be higher , close to 30psi, where the electric is at 24. My fuel pressure is pretty jumpy, and there isn’t really an change in psi when I turn it on/off with the engine running.

Yeah I let it run this time for about 15” instead of just a quick prime. It got up to 24psi and held it pretty solid. I was actually hoping it would be jumping around.

My personal technique has been to turn on my preheat the night before I fly in the winter. I have an sms power switch that i use to turn on a small ceramic heater. Set on low with a dryer duct up into the cowl flaps, it works well. Today though, I saw something hard to believe. Last week we were in the 20s for highs, and dry. 30s last weekend and still dry. Yesterday, an atmospheric river hit us and it was really moist and ~55. Today I went to my hangar. It’s insulated and weatherstripped but hardly airtight. You can see daylight through several places. Concrete floor. Metal all the way around, in the middle of a long row. The hangar floor and the airplane were straight up wet. Like water dripping off. It was shocking how much water. Even the tired were soaked all the way around. I can only imagine it was real cold and then that moist warm air hit it and condensed. Makes me wonder what happens inside the engine?? I was happy to fly it today and get it all dried out!

Thanks. I’m probably being too jumpy with it, but it doesn’t sound good to me. It’s pretty old too. I’m usually of the opinion that you shouldn’t fix it if it ain’t broke. After running it with steady pressure, I don’t think it’s connected to my jumpy fuel pressure but it might strand me somewhere this summer.

I’ve been slowly troubleshooting a fluctuating fuel glow issue, so I’m hypersensitive to the fuel system right now. This is a Weldon 8163-A 14V pump. I ran it today after flying to check the pressure without the engine running. Mixture and throttle mid rangr, so obviously fuel was flowing (and now my sniffle valve is also checked). Pressure was steady at 24psi, but it sounds bad to me. It doesn’t leak though. Last replaced about 18 years ago. Am I crazy for thinking of OHing the fuel pump because it sounds bad? Turn up volume for best results… https://photos.app.goo.gl/35kJCRQrkTy1HKDy6

Regardless of 2 or 3 axis, you probably want to budget for the trim servo. Technically you can do a 2 servo gfc500 but you lose a good bit of automation because it will just alert you that you need to trim every time it trys to level off or you change airspeed. I don’t see a good reason to leave out the trim function on such a capable AP.

Additionally, start the t/o roll with some back pressure (say “5lbs”). Speed and front weight conspire to push the nose down if you don’t hold some back pressure during the roll. If done properly and still takes a strong pull, try 1/2 turn nose up trim. Front weight needs to be on the nose up side of T/O trim.

I might also consider using a -650 instead of a -750 and a pma450b audio panel instead of a gma. I love the garmin gear, but the pma audio is superior. I’m sure I’ll get flamed for not wanting a -750, but if you plan to use an ipad with GP or FF as well, all that screen becomes redundant. And looking outside is still important too!

When I was running an Air Force T-6 squadron, two of my instructors took a Texan (the airplane) on a lunch run (training both ways of course) in South Texas. They were both very good instructors and somehow they missed seeing the dreaded FBO cone. It can happen to anyone. As they sat in my office and told me the story and awaited their fate, I could tell that they had learned a valuable lesson about vigilance. I had to punish them in some way, but I kept it relatively minimal and off their record. The front seat instructor is now a U2 pilot overseas. Learn from it, but don’t beat yourself up too badly, again, it can happen to anyone.

In most cases I think a -930 is overkill and a 900 works just fine, however, the PO of my airplane put a -930 in on the right side and it’s been awesome. Everyone that says it’s not readable over there needs to get their eyes checked. A Mooney panel just isn’t that wide and it works perfectly. Do I stare at it? No, but it’s plenty easy to have it in the crosscheck. The only thing I dislike about it also applies to the EI and -900. It’s outside Garmin’s architecture, so if you have other Garmin avionics, don’t expect them to work well (or at all) together. If you’re not using Garmin, both the -900 and-930 are awesome! (and yes, for all you guys that zoom in and look at GS, that’s 211 knots at 10,500’ in a M-20F with an IO-360! )