Ragsf15e

Yeah, im really happy with the panel the previous owner put in, but a physical audio panel seems like a good thing. Losing gps and transponder is fine if you can tell atc about it, heck, I have com/nav 2! But the inability to select comm/nav2 would be frustrating.

Yikes. I just started flying with a 750xi and only recently learned that you “can’t turn it off”. I have located the CBs and they are actually pulled right now so next time I start it shouldn’t come on. I want to make sure I know which ones turn it off. The scary thing to me isn’t losing the gps, but I also have the remote audio panel. I actually wish I had a normal audio panel and a remote transponder as I think that’s easier to deal with if you lose it. I’m glad it reset for you, and that you weren’t ifr or in a class B/C!

This could be an interesting one… technically, the G5 can only provide heading to non garmin AP. However, depending on when the G5 was installed, it was legal to use it as the altitude encoding source, so possibly that altitude is fed to the AP for altitude hold? Another interesting tidbit… my G5s were set up as the encoder and I was occasionally getting an encoder failure on my transponder. Recycling the transponder off/on would fix it. It took a long time to get the straight answer (and they were still shady), but garmin acknowledged a software issue with the G5s acting as an encoder and offered to send me their little external encoder that attaches to the transponder for free.

Great advice, thank you for taking the time to provide those details! Drew

Excellent, thank you! I was looking at Precise Flights manual, but the one you posted was much more helpful! And now I see (probably) why there’s an access plate on the top and bottom since it originally had 100 series.

Mine look a little different as the top also has a removable panel there. They are the 2000 series, installed after removing the vacuum ones….

Skip, does the cartridge come out through the top or bottom? Mine seem to have access panels on both. I’m looking at the installation manual and it’s not helping. Im just preparing to help my mechanic lube them at annual and want to have the access thought out.

I took a picture today just to close the loop before we fix this at annual next week. The engine has been on the airplane two years. Installed at a reputable msc. I just got it, so no idea how long it’s been like this, however, the tube leading into the oil filler tube was not connected to the air oil separator or even capped off?! There was a piece of blue painters tape near it. I wonder if that was on there temporarily at some time? Fixing this should help my oily belly issue a lot!

Excellent, thank you! My son isn’t going to like his legos disappearing, but he’ll be happy if they help fly him to Disneyland!

And you’re wetting the fiberglass cloth with the abs glue mixed with abs bits or the abs putty or the mek with abs mixed in? I was thinking the abs glue or putty would be easier than mixing epoxy to laminate over the fiberglass cloth. There’s so many different ways people do this. I’m definitely going to start with a few simple (and hidden) pieces in the baggage. If you need to cover a hole (such as removing the ashtray) how do you texture the visible surface?

Maybe one of the airline/jet guys can speak up because it’s been a while for me, but if you drastically reduce power in a jet during wind sheer close to the ground (due to increased IAS) there will not be time to spool the engines back up when the inevitable speed loss from the opposite side of the sheer hits. Power in our pistons and even turboprops comes in much faster. When the IAS drops, and the power is back, descent rate can increase quickly (thus the sink rate warning). 1100 fps is a pretty hard hit.

When you get a bright led in there, it’s a great feeling. Checking gear down is a much more positive experience, however, if you night fly a lot, it’s pretty darn bright!

Well this isn’t my thread but it should help

The light under the floor indicator is accessible from the belly. You’ve got to have small hands. The bulb is cheap and available but has a very specific base. I had to try two different types. so you would optimally do this at annual when the belly panel is off and you can watch underneath as the gear retract. You can actually see the little plexiglass piece move out of the window. I have a thread with pictures from a couple years ago. I’ll see if i can find it.

OAT?