MB65E

With the way the fuel lines go into the transducer it's pretty tight and short lines off of the fuel pump. With all the fire sleeve and sealent that's required, I have not been able to bracket the transducer on a FI 4cyl Lycoming. The carbed version is an easier install, as well as the 6 cyl lycomings and continentals. My Transducer is secured by the tension of the fuel lines. However my fuel lines are clamped to the oil pan/case bolts. Just some thoughts, -Matt

They are 1300 each on the CJ and Cessna or Shaw will not give the p/n for the orings. They force you to buy new caps!! Lets just say I found the P/n another way. They are Goofballs, -Matt

If you have the 20:1 gear set the inspection interval is different than the 40:1. I had thought I was close on time on my inspection. But I rechecked what the SB allows and was able to extend...rrr. The kicker is the SB that allows the extension with the 40:1 gear set is not listed on the B-G airframes. I believe it's only listed on the J's but applies to the actuator and not the aircraft itself. Even the mooney website didn't list the SB under the older Airframes. Either way, make sure that actuator and motor are cared for! -Matt

Just measure it from the distance aft of the nose pivot datum. Probably someplace extremely close to the rear seat arm. -Matt

Pacific Continental Engines. Whiteman Airport Talk with Chris. He's great! tel:(818) 899-5200 -Matt

Disregard already posted. -Matt

I would see what the prop shop says about your current prop. Best case is new blades and out the door. I have always thought if you have the HP, then the 3rd blade will help pull you. And face it, it looks great! If the hub is shot too, I would look into seeing if the new MT with the carbon semitar blades and nickel leading edge is available. The old style wood/fiberglass blades had issues but the latest MT's I think are AMAZING. They don't have the De-lam problems the older wood core blades did. If you keep the older style out of the rain they are fine, but really sucks when you knock the finish off a new blade. Glad to here everyone's ok. Btw. -Matt

Poplar Grove or G&N have done nice work in the past. Both less than a day's drive from Indy.

That's awesome!! Nicely detailed!! Hope the little guy is enjoying it too! -Matt

Dan at lasar will have them too. Maybe Browns price is better than lasar's. $35 at lasar... -Matt

Good Luck Byron! You Finally pulled the trigger!! Can't wait to see it!! I had the old rattle can out this weekend... One day... It's hard to justify paint being 25-40% of the airplanes value when the paint still shines. -Matt

I would trust Roy Ottosen propeller in PHX. Brian Sullivan propeller in the Bay Area. (Might not do light GA stuff anymore) Finally, American Propeller in Redding CA. I have worked with all three and have had great experiences with them. American propeller even provides a pick up service and always has room for another 2 bladed prop on their truck. Being based at SMO, I don't even use SMO propeller if that says anything. Funny, SMO propellers is not even listed on Hartzell's webpage anymore... Best, -Matt

Bob, did you have a link? I don't think they make one except for the J and some later models. What are their servicing requirements? Cliff, good to know about the challenger filter. I had thought about it. I have the bracket filter, and would like to have something that's more permanent, less disposable, less messy. The bottom cowl is always soaked with its goop. I recently refinished my intake Grill and ram air door replacing its seals and such. I keep a towel taped over the filter to keep the dust out of it when I know it will be parked for a while. -Matt

How old is it? I have seen them melted, I bet fuel vapor has a lot to do with it. -Matt

I think it's a mind over matter situation. I once was turned around on a climbing departure procedure. I leveled off and noticed I was drifting on the DG. Told my self to knock it off or I would be dead. That solved it for me. But the issue is noticing the error, before it really messes with you. I like to look for movement of the gear by looking on the floor first. Then checking the light. A lot can be learned from the realitive motion of the gear vs just looking for a light. And, Anthony... Geez, I think that would make anyone sick! I can still do everything in an aerobatic airplane I can think of with out loosing it. However, I'll jump on the girls glider in the back yard with them and only do about 10 swings... I'm done! Lol. Best, -Matt

Thanks Alan, I'll keep it in mind. -Matt

Want to trade a straight 330s? might also have a 250XL. thanks, -Matt

Cool, I flew over it two or three times back in late September/early October. It was like a wall of gas. I even thought there was something wrong with the airplane. I was about 500ft over the top of the ridgeline. This was well before the media got ahold of it. It's really a shame that it has not been fixed. The inferred shots make you cringe. Cool Bravo!! -Matt

What would you like us to say? Having been thru a 40k project, I'd pass. 36k vs 50k on a loan, might not be that bad. Then you might get a cleaner airplane that way. However, if your paying in full, you want to have at least 10k cash to throw at it. We pulled the trigger at 41k and had to throw another 10k+ at it the first year. I had not found MS yet. I'm just glad we found an airplane that we can keep and enjoy now. -Matt

Thanks Clarence, I'll check the other J material I have. Some have minimum weights, and that's where the confusion was I believe. -Matt

Last I checked there was no min weight published on the trailing edge. Only a max allowable weight at the trailing edge. I don't see the need to check the balance if the paint is removed. It's lighter and will be less prone to flutter. An overweight or aft edge heavy flight control will be less stable. Some manufactures list a MAX weight of the flight control. I have seen new airplanes from mooney with freshly painted flight control hardware. I highly doubt they balance every surface. The ailerons are espically hard to get in balance with paint on them. I'd always recomend a full strip of flight controls during a repainted. I pulled 6 layers of of some in the past. They were heavy when I pulled them off, but never had any issues in flight. If you paint them, please check the balance. -Matt

Welcome HC!! Glad to have you. While you seek your M20, Go buy an old Cub or Citabria. That will make you better than a mooney pilot for sure. You'll get the best of both worlds that way. Heck, you might end up keeping the TW airplane and getting the mooney. I'd love to find a super D project by the way... best of luck, -Matt

The Lycoming IPC and various pictures from Lycoming can determine what way the forward case bolts go. I have used sealant and Stat-o-seals in some of the hardware up there. It helps. Just be sure everything is torqued up nicely iaw the overhaul manual. The forward case moves around more than you think. A dynamic balance will reduce some vibration. Glad you found the leak. -Matt