Andy95W

I think I found the correct pages. It looks as though they are nut plates, you will probably have to remove that main gear truss to replace it.

Please post a picture.

If the mechanical pump fails at 50’ AGL on takeoff or a go-around, you’ll be dead before you can get the electric pump on. I think that’s why it’s supposed to be used for takeoff and landing.

The M20C gives the most miles per $. Some will point out the better fuel economy for the fuel injected M20E/F/J. But the M20C wins because of lower overhaul, maintenance, and insurance costs. Not to mention that they cost $20,000 less than an M20E and $30,000 less than an F. And it’s only about 5 knots slower- which is less than 4 minutes difference on a 300 mile flight.

Same (except mine’s an M20C).

Apples : Oranges : Bananas This was explained in some of the posts above, but I’ll try a synopsis. In a “normal” engine with two magnetos both timed at 25° BTDC, both spark plugs fire simultaneously and peak cylinder pressure is attained a few degrees later. If one spark source is removed, then it will take much longer for the peak cylinder pressure to develop and the cylinder will be past the point of maximum mechanical advantage, and the cylinder (and engine) will lose power. That’s what you experience when you do a cruise power mag check. In an engine with an advanced spark system such as the Surefly, the advanced spark will begin considerably earlier than the magneto, and the fuel/air charge will be consumed largely before the second spark even occurs. At that point, you could turn off the magneto and not lose any power. Lastly, this is all academic for your TSIO-360. The Surefly isn’t approved for advanced timing in turbo charged engines.

Nice write-up David, makes me want to stick with my Zulu 3s and not change. There is a way to non-mute the inputs, but it has to be done every on/off cycle. Wish Lightspeed would give it a permanent switch to not mute the inputs.

Hi Chris, glad you’re back. Bruce offered me the same thing but mine was also in pretty good shape. I’m guessing just remove yours, match drill the holes from your old one, and install using the foam under the plastic as a gasket. You probably don’t need the foam, though. The screws might pull the plastic down into your carpet and it’ll look great. Did you get your airplane painted yet?

I’ve been an airline pilot for 24 years, and a captain for about half of that. Bomb procedures are considered sensitive information that isn’t supposed to be discussed. I edited my response to just give a few common sense items to think about. You have to consider the number of passengers who will be injured during an evacuation. That number, even amongst able-bodied adults, is much higher than you’d imagine. And what about the elderly? Or the passenger that they said that was in a wheelchair? How many broken ankles and sprained limbs are worth the speedy evacuation when nearly all bomb threats are hoaxes? I think the captain did a good job, and I wouldn’t want to second-guess his actions. But it would be nice if the airport support personnel could’ve done their jobs more quickly. That was a long time to have to wait for stairs and busses.

@Bob Weber

The Sky-Tek is PMA’ed for your M20E, so you’re good on that. If you want, you can add your model to your profile and it’ll show up under your avatar. Good luck!

Sky-Tek makes one that is FAA/PMA for Mooneys so you can legally install it in your airplane (you didn’t mention which model you own, so I’m assuming). Aircraft Spruce sells them for $92. The OEM part is over $400. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pnpages/07-03564.php?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwltKxBhDMARIsAG8KnqUfGbk3rKww0ESujRSFSCd-AOBCkp-Ld1O260m3OD3WYh19giv1mccaAjNVEALw_wcB

Hi Byron @jetdriven- if you go to the top of the page and touch on your name next to the thumbnail picture, you can go to “My Attachments”. That is a shortcut to take you to your photos and you can delete some of the oldest ones. There might be a shorter method. I agree with you, this restriction really limits some of this site’s utility.

There’s a Mooney Service Center in Kitchener that’s run by a highly knowledgeable guy. Have you tried there?

Personally, I’d keep your generator and put on a modern voltage regulator, if it doesn’t have one already. If you really want an alternator, I’d go with a used Interav unit. eBay or junk yards like Wentworth usually have them. Get the alternator overhauled and use a brand new PlanePower voltage regulator. You’ll be very happy. @Alan Fox may have one as well.

@takair

A few years ago, I found some oil in the bottom of my #4 cylinder and engine oil was fouling that bottom spark plug. I did a ring flush of that cylinder using straight MMO. Worked very well for me. I look hard at that cylinder every annual and it still looks good.

@Oscar Avalle- I thought this STC was only available for the E and F models, that didn’t have the battery box mounted to the firewall. Unless your M20C has its battery relocated to the tail?

All that does is make the rudder pedals uneven. If you add more turns, then the rudder is no longer aligned with the nose wheel and you’ll have a wild ride on touchdown. If you also try adjusting the ailerons that way, then the yoke will be crooked too and you will get the rudder/aileron interconnect out of whack and the airplane will fly even more crooked. Better idea is to adjust it according to the manual and tweak the rudder trim tab.

I had the Warren Gregoire covers in my first M20C about 25 years ago. They used to make one specifically with the PC button exposed. They worked well and were very comfortable. If you call them, I’ll bet they would be happy to use their old pattern to make one with the PC button still useable. I had the cream colored ones. They looked great at first but got dirty and couldn’t really be cleaned. I suggest the black ones, and hard-wire the PTT wiring to your audio panel/intercom.

Gus, I agree with you 100%, but somehow I get the impression that cost effectiveness isn’t going to figure into this decision. Makes me wonder why my father didn’t buy me an Ovation.

More likely that someone made an arithmetic error 20 or 30 years ago.

My biggest problem is usually the nut at the control knob end.

I agree with Skip. This seems like a solution looking for a problem.

Byron’s a straight shooter. If nothing else pans out, I’d have him do it, just ask that a different mechanic do the inspection (maybe even Byron himself, if he has time, after one of his guys opens it up).