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Those apples have engines rated in thousands of horsepower. Our oranges have engines rated in hundreds. Commensurate order of magnitude reduction in intake size might be comparable, like what is used on the Rotax applications. Thanks for the pics though

Thanks all!

Yes, the trip home the winds got much lighter at altitude. And much of the flight I even had some slight tailwind.

True. I cruise at 138 HP in my K. So how long would that engine put out 138 HP?

Hmm, who else uses your computer and what have they been searching on? Or if you have your phone (Siri) or an Alexa, what have you been talking about?????

wot doesn't matter, a better comparison is how long will it put out 200hp at sea level or something

The Performance Tables in the Owners Manual shows % Power. I keep them on my knee board for easy reference. Over time, you'll probably find yourself using the same power settings at similar altitudes, and that will make power setting even easier. The MAPA PPP course advocates Key Numbers. The Key Number for an M20-C is 46. So use any throttle and prop setting where MP + RPM/100 = 46. For example, 22" / 2400 is good; 22" / 2500 is not so good; the Key Numbers provide a safe place to run the engine, and you can pretty much put the mixture wherever you want. Happy flying!

Here is where Mike Busch learned about leaning - https://www.advancedpilot.com/ They have not had an in person for a number of years (and two of the main presenters have passed away), but the online works well. These are the guys that pushed LOP operation over the cries and anguish of many, including some of the current gurus or LOP (I won't mention any names ). No, the G3X % power numbers are not accurate. And LOP is easy, for turbo engines the HP is 13.7 times the fuel flow. So my normal cruise fuel flow of 10.1 GPH is 138 HP. Divide that by 220 (max) and I am at 63% power. My old JPI 830 got this right. George Braly developed an algorithm for ROP operation, I think Cirrus wanted it, and it may be in the Cirrus G1000 implementation.

Not sure you would need to do any paperwork as to how you locate where the drill/punch the holes.

That is at WOT. How long will that engine last at close to WOT? My daily driver puts out 180 HP at peak (turbo with intercooler). But my average MPG is around 35. And my average speed is around 35 MPH. So I average 1 GPH or 13.7 HP (assuming LOP operation). Not enough to fly a plane. Even at cruise on the highway I am burning about 2 GPH, or 27.4 HP. My performance car puts out a max of 333 HP, out of 196 cubic inches. But at a fast cruise, it burns 2.2 GPH or about 33 HP (naturally aspirated, higher compression).

12 volts at 5 amps is 60 watts. That is what is needed at start up. If you plane has a 24 volt outlet, 5 amps is 120 watts.

Swap probes see if it is the probe or the cylinder.

See my story of the Johnson Bar failure in Safety discussion. I concluded too much preload may have contributed to the failure but couldn't get my hands on the tools. I worked with a local fabricator from a template I had, to make a set. It was quickly apparent the original steel tools with welded up stiffeners was wildly over-built for the load applied. I simplified the tools, changed to aluminum and even skeletonized to greatly reduce the weight and welding, therefore cost. The previous comment is correct, clocking the torque wrench square will not effect the torque applied. It didn't occur to me a non-ratcheting wrench might be used. I also think the 1/2" ratchet should be changed to 3/8" more appropriate to the load and torque wrench size. I wouldn't have to use an adapter.

I put in a second lighter socket on left side, so only a short 1’ cable is needed. This is also far away from the radio, the right one is right next to my radio stack. No interference issues. My PS radio also has a UCB-C power port as well. I like the idea of sockets, in case USB-X becomes the new standard, or I want to use a non USB device (starlink, laptop, etc)

I assume all temps were equal before the cylinder change? So my first thought would be the probe since that’s easy to swap. Second thing I’d do is borescope to check the cylinder wall condition and the plugs. Not a mechanic. Just spitballing…

No sooner do I get the broken through bolt replaced and another random thing breaks. I got the broken through bolt replaced this weekend (see other thread for that), did a nice long run up and then flew near the airport for a bit before finally heading out on a short flight to a nearby field for lunch. Everything was going perfect, engine working great. Feeling pretty confident that the through bolt failure didn't have any latent issues. Then I head back from lunch. A couple minutes after departing my EDM 900's tach display starts oscillating wildly. At first I'm a bit panicked, did something go wrong? However, nothing sounded or felt wrong. If my RPM was acting as crazy as the instrument it would have been obvious. So I landed and....the RPM started working. Pulled the cowl an started looking for the RPM sensor. Found the cord and traced it forward...and realized it was just completely snapped off. It must have just been touching, and just the air through the cowl was making it move around and sometimes make contact. I'm having trouble trying to figure out what actually will need to be replaced and I like to know that before I call in the mechanic. Since the part number 420807 on the wire is the pressurized mag part to me it looks like someone cut the end off a pressurized mag JPI sensor (I don't have pressurized mags afaik either so not sure why that part) and then crimped another wire onto the end? This doesn't really look like https://www.aircraftspruce.com/pages/in/probesandsenders_zjpi/jpi10-05459-61.php. Sorry, It's a little hard to tell what's going on in these photos, but I'm holding the broken off spiced wire. I had trouble finding where exactly it broke off of tbh. I'm assuming one of my mag will have the end of the sensor in it.

I would rather avoid even more fire hazards in my plane.

I stand corrected Maybe brain fart from being up too late recently :-)

Uhh

Hello Mooney People, Just had good top overhaul for IO550 AFTER 1100 HOURS. Six factory new cylinders nicely done. using straight mineral oil and have put 16 hours on new cylinders. Fliing at 75% power and intermittent very to 65 % power. Enging running very smoothly. Still number #4 cylinder EGT runs 100 degrees over others running at 75 percent power running ROP. Thinking might be bad probe??? What else would cause one EGT cylinder #4 to run hotter? Now have 16 hours since work was done and plan oil change and analysis and will carefully cut open oil filter. Look for tiny metal sparkles. Oill consumption stable now. Thinking time to go back to AD oil. Would love some opinions.... Thanks Alan N913ND Ovation KVNC

tha'ts what they do with airplane engines, if it could run at 5k rpm it would put out massive hp also., no controversy here fuel+spark = hp. add a turbo and things get interesting, even that DOG of a ford v8 posted earlier would put out much higher numbers at lower rpm. someone talk diamond into selling their diesel heres a chart for my pedestrian ecodiesel

When and if you get around to buying exterior screws, I second this advice. There just aren't that many different types of screws on the exterior of an M20F, and it's not that hard to get the exact part numbers from the IPC. The kits always seem to be a bit off, and even if you had a perfect kit it's not like the kit itself tells you which screws are really supposed to go in which panels.

You can get fine interior trim screws anywhere. Two months after I bought my F, I flew to Airventure. I went to the fly market with some sample screws and interior washers and bought a bunch dirt cheap. I then spent an evening in the north 40 sweating my baguettes off replacing every interior trim screw.

Fuel distribution along with a slight throttle reduction helps… -Don

A lot! -Don