dc0341 Posted yesterday at 04:26 PM Report Posted yesterday at 04:26 PM Does anyone know the part number for this fuel drain valve? Or a good replacement one. It's one of the ones on the bottom of the wings, not the belly. I looked in the parts catalog and couldn't figure out which one it is (Dukes or Christopher). I have an 83 M20J. Thanks,
PT20J Posted yesterday at 04:49 PM Report Posted yesterday at 04:49 PM Curtiss Valve, Saf-Air make compatible valves. The spring in the Saf-Air is pretty stiff making sumping more difficult. Don’t overtighten when installing. 1
Beard Posted yesterday at 09:16 PM Report Posted yesterday at 09:16 PM What a coincidence. Just today I sumped the fuel in my J and the valve would not close. I had to drain the full tank and order a new part from Aircraft Spruce. I needed the same part numbers detailed by others in this link.
Skyland Posted yesterday at 09:41 PM Report Posted yesterday at 09:41 PM This drain takes fuel from the very bottom of the tank, along the surface of the bottom aluminum wing skin. Any debris, flakes, rust, contamination can work its way into the valve and settle onto the valve seat. Repeatedly poking at it with a fuel cup wire often flushes it clean. While I haven't tried it, in stubborn cases where it continues to leak, I thought gently blowing air into the valve with an inflation stem for sports balls might blow it clean. 1
Marc_B Posted yesterday at 09:43 PM Report Posted yesterday at 09:43 PM @dc0341 Go with the Saf-air ones. They're cheaper, you can change the o-rings in the future if they wear out, and currently come with fluorocarbon o-rings. The spring isn't that stiff and I don't find them much harder than my old ones. SAF-AIR SA53S (F-391-53S) - Mains SAF-AIR SA72 (F-391-72D) - Aux Monroy outboards if you have them Torque value 40-65 in-lbs max; use EZ Turn lightly applied and not on last two threads. You don't need much torque to seal and these are MAX, not recommended torque. Replacement o-rings: M83248/1-006, -012 (SA72), -015 (SA53S)
N201MKTurbo Posted 23 hours ago Report Posted 23 hours ago Don’t be surprised if the new valve doesn’t stop the leaks. On my J, replacing the valve didn’t fix it. I had to remove the nut plate it screws into, clean the tank where it attached and re-rivet it in with new sealant. 1
GeeBee Posted 22 hours ago Report Posted 22 hours ago Before you start tearing into things, try getting a large Gats jar and push up all the way to fully open the valve and get lots of fuel out. Do it several times. There may be some gunk under the seal which will clear out with a substantial draw. I've found most people don't pull enough fuel out to fully flush the valve on a regular basis. Do it several times to see if you can clear any gunk under the valve seat. 3
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