M20M Voltage Regulator

[Boilermonkey]

So close...but so far.  Been down for four months getting a reman engine.  A day before I'm suppose to pick her up, one of the voltage regulators failed.

In search of a Electrodelta VR-802 (Mooney 800270-503) or (retrofit 940170-503)

 

[LANCECASPER]

16 minutes ago, Boilermonkey said:

So close...but so far.  Been down for four months getting a reman engine.  A day before I'm suppose to pick her up, one of the voltage regulators failed.

In search of a Electrodelta VR-802 (Mooney 800270-503) or (retrofit 940170-503)

 

You mention that "one of the voltage regulators failed". The 800270-503 is one box that houses the regulator(s) for both alternators. 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ye52z0rpy30xvkp/IMG_2441.JPG?dl=0

I was thinking that Don Maxwell may rebuild these.

[Boilermonkey]

Yeah, the right circuit breaker pops, even with engine off.  When we swap the wires the left fails following the failed one of two in the pair.

 

[Marc_B]

Consolidated Aircraft Supply Co., Inc.

55 Raynor Ave.

Ronkonkoma, NY 11779

631/981-7700

info@consolac.com

https://www.consolac.com/contact

I spoke with them for a service adjustment on my VR and they can test/repair that VR.  If it’s just a matter of test and adjust it was $175; depending on parts a typical repair/overhaul was $300-550 and they return it with an 8130.  Recommended sending it in with a request for “functional test and advise” then they’d call/email to determine best course of action.

Looks like Mooney also has a VR retrofit kit that supersedes current VR; it’s part number 940170-503 and I think this is field adjustable (electro delta isn’t). But I think it would have to be ordered from Mooney?  LASAR shows it for $3270.11 special order. So sounds like the better option is just to get current VR serviced. 

[LANCECASPER]

If the regulator(s) worked fine before your new (reman) engine I doubt that it went bad during the engine swap. I would look closely at the installation of the two alternators, on your factory reman. If the breaker pops without anything running sounds like something's not connected right. You may even have a bad alternator. When I helped with the Bravo conversion of my TIO540AF1A, I took the opportunity to send off both alternators, but made sure that I took a lot of pictures to make sure I got everything put back together. Who's doing the install on your reman engine?

[Boilermonkey]

12 hours ago, LANCECASPER said:

If the regulator(s) worked fine before your new (reman) engine I doubt that it went bad during the engine swap. I would look closely at the installation of the two alternators, on your factory reman. If the breaker pops without anything running sounds like something's not connected right. You may even have a bad alternator. When I helped with the Bravo conversion of my TIO540AF1A, I took the opportunity to send off both alternators, but made sure that I took a lot of pictures to make sure I got everything put back together. Who's doing the install on your reman engine?

Both alts were sent for OH.  The shop swapped the wires between the regulators and the problem followed, so it makes us think that it is the regulator, not the alts.  I don't know if there is anything else in the chain besides the regulators that follows the swap.  The swap should rule out the alts, some of the wiring, the CB, etc.   

Oasis is doing the work, while the project has had a few delays, I've been very happy with their work and communication so far.  I know they are really trying to get it wrapped up, I'll write a full PIREP once done.  This issue might be serendipity rather than miss fortune.  I'd rather have this issue prior to picking it up from Oasis, than on the road or at home with a less familiar shop.  Nonetheless, I want Bravo Betty back ASAP.