The horror...doghouse seal

[HRM]

So, I am now understanding why I have had high cylinder temps with my engine. The baffle seal is completely shot and I am beginning to wonder if the lower portion has ever been changed (see photo). The top seal is a patchwork of various black and orange pieces so while we are working a cylinder issue I've decided to replace the seals. Does the front lower cowl need to come off completely to get at the row of rivets, or is there some trick (like a partial removal)? Thanks!

[takair]

Not sure there is an easy way.  I did mine when I did my alternator conversion, without removing the lower cowl, but I really wish I had.  Basically removed the baffles through the bottom.   I would try to droop the front of the cowl, just take care of the inlet boot.  The more the bottom cowl is removed, the more damage it takes.

[Guest]

Some of the rivets are accessible from the top, others below the starter ring gear will require cowl removal.  When I replaced the seal on my E model I bonded the material to the metal and secured with cleco fasteners whil it dried, then riveted it.

Also the cooling fan is not normally installed on a Mooney.

Clarence

[DXB]

Doubt there’s any trick- I’ve had my bottom cowl dropped twice to get baffle stuff right, including replacing the seal you point out. Use the opportunity to perfect the seal around the alternator and starter as well.  The cowl closure makes fixing these spots a PITA with the bottom cowl on.  Luckily, fixing this on the E actually carries hope of addessing your temp issues, unlike on the C.

[Bob_Belville]

It might be an optical illusion but in your pic the "fan belt" doesn't appear to be running true. That might be a bearing in the alternator (or generator).

[HRM]

5 hours ago, Bob_Belville said:

It might be an optical illusion but in your pic the "fan belt" doesn't appear to be running true. That might be a bearing in the alternator (or generator).

Good point, I’ll look while l am in there. This started for other reasons, but has grown along the way 

That said, I think it’s just the angle of the view.

[Guest]

Prestolite alternators are known to have the aft bushing come loose and wear out, allowing for mis-alignment.

Clarence

[Bob_Belville]

21 minutes ago, M20Doc said:

Prestolite alternators are known to have the aft bushing come loose and wear out, allowing for mis-alignment.

Clarence

Exactly. A Jasco in my case. It was 15 years and 700 hours old.

[HRM]

4 hours ago, M20Doc said:

Prestolite alternators are known to have the aft bushing come loose and wear out, allowing for mis-alignment.

Clarence

So do you just grab the pulley and see if it is loose? While the whole kit-n-kaboodle is open is the time to check these things.

[Guest]

5 hours ago, HRM said:

So do you just grab the pulley and see if it is loose? While the whole kit-n-kaboodle is open is the time to check these things.

I would loosen the drive belt, then wiggle the alternator to see how the bushings are.

Clarence

[cliffy]

The bracket on the bottom of the engine case that the alternator bolts to can also be cracked allowing misalignment. I've had that happen. You can pull on the belt and if the alt moves the bracket is broken. That's on my preflight.

In the case of the Inter-Av alternator the fan actually tries to "pull" air forward out of the alternator because of the way the blades are aligned. I asked them about that (years ago) and they said they knew about that but that was the way they wanted it. 

Seemed to me no fan would have been better for airflow but not to them.  

[cliffy]

BTW, I forgot to add- I used to work for Jasco when the company started, many decades ago 

Still have an old alt drive shaft in my junk somewhere.