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Ring Flush, how do you do it?


kmyfm20s

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The best we know… until we hear more…

This cylinder likely has 2011 hrs on it…

For a TN’d IO550… that’s about 2X of their expected lifetime…before OH.

Would Mike Bush fight the tide with a ring flush?

Or would he inspect the internals to see if it is worn out?

 

If these hours are reliable… the cross-hatched pattern probably looks more like a mirror in places…

Which would be the tell tail sign that is time to at least OH the cylinder…

How many band-aids can hold a finely worn in TN’d IO550 together?  :)

PP guesses only, just wondering out loud…

Best regards,

-a-

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  • 6 months later...
On 3/20/2022 at 2:53 PM, M20TN_Driver said:

I have yet to perform the flush on my Acclaim.  My engine is at 2011 hours since new, so the thought by Mike Busch and team is that it is likely a gummed up ring.  Regardless, the flush is supposed to tell you a lot.  If you turn the prop and there is little resistance to the flush mix, then you know you have a bigger issue.  There is supposed to be good resistance with the prop turn when this is done.  My compressions are all good and #3 cylinder (the one that is perpetually oily soaked bottom plug) is believed to be the culprit.  #3 doesn't run hotter on EGT or CHTs than any other cylinder.  Last oil change virtually nothing in the filter so I believe this engine has plenty of life left in it prior to overhaul.  I run fine wires in it, which is why I think the engine still runs well being oil soaked.  I was told that a massive plug likely wouldn't even fire with that much oil on it.

I have tried running MMO in the oil, and even running a can of SeaFoam through it to see if it improved.  I just ground ran the Seafoam for an hour and then did an oil/filter change.  

I'm trying to least invasive procedures first.  If they don't correct, I'm going to bite the bullet and do the full ring flush.  The issue with the Acclaim is that you have to remove the intercooler to even access the top #3 plug and you have to remove the quick drains too as the mix will soften O-rings...which would be no bueno.

I mostly run this engine LOP.  It was run exclusively LOP before I bought it a few years ago.  I don't think LOP or ROP has much to do with the oil sludge gumming up rings.  I'm not a mechanic, so I could absolutely be wrong on that.  I do know I baby these cylinders and rarely are they run over 350 degrees except on takeoff.  In normal LOP cruise they are all mostly around 300 degrees on CHT.

 

 

Any update on this?

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