CaptRJM

External Fuel Gauge, KI-256, KEA-130 and VSI have been SOLD

Unfortunately, times change and I've sold my 231. As I was in the position that I often needed to dispatch immediately, I couldn't wait to get a Overhaul/Exchange if something failed. Because of that I accumulated a lot of "spares" over the years. Below is a partial list. I'll be posting more in the coming weeks. Anything with an 8130 has not been used since I purchased it. Everything else is in new or excellent condition except the ASI which I would say is in fair condition. Manufacturer Model P/N Description Price Mooney 820308-509 ASI 100 Mooney 130355-501 & 502 Sun Visors (Pair) 100 Mooney 710067-501 and 710066-501 Yoke Shafts (Pair) 200 Mooney Yoke Bezels (Pair) 75 Mooney 880011-801 External Fuel Gauge (New with paperwork) 75 Mooney 830018-501 Strobe Power Supply (New) 100 Mooney 70-311221-5 Landing Gear Relay (Pair) 75 Mooney 310016-011 Tinted Storm Window with Hinges 50 Bendix/King KI165 069-1025-21 14 Volt, Bevan Aviation Overhaul with 8130 2500 Bendix/King KI525A 066-3046-00 Mid Continent Overhaul with 8130 800 Bendix/King KI256 060-0017-00 Mid Continent Overhaul with 8130 1000 Bendix/King KS270 065-0027-04 Trim Servo 300 Bendix/King KEA-130 066-3064-30 0-35K Encoding Altimeter 150 Mid Continent MD90-1 Clock 75 Hoskins 71025 Pair of Strobe Power Supplies (used) 100 Great Lakes Aero 2414 231 landing Light Lens 150 B&D 0227-005 CDT/TIT Gauge 100 Rochester 640281-515 231 Gauge Cluster 150 United 1B209 VSI 100 Precise Flight 2H3-39 Vacuum Regulator 100 Buyer pays shipping. Reasonable Offers are encouraged. Feel free to contact me with any questions.

Mine used to slip anytime it was wet and I had to exert a fair amount of pressure going uphill into the hangar. Turns out Redline recognized the problem and has a upgraded drive drum that eliminates the problem. But, don't think it will resolve issues in snow.

Parts manual covers a range of S/Ns. Mooney may have used several different parts during a range of aircraft. Parts manual needs to be used as a guide, not an absolute.

The yoke mounted trim switch is notorious. Three microswitches and small diameter spring wire is all that makes it work. Dirt, wear and number of cycles all add up to it not working. Just for grins I’d loosen it from the yoke and give it a good dousing of a good contact cleaner like DetoxIT

R and L caps are the same with stock tanks. Shaw part number is on the bottom of the cap so you don’t have to guess. I’d check the usual sources for a used one. I’d think a new one will be quite expensive. Hard to believe you didn’t get any damage to the wing. It must have flapped around for a little while until the lanyard failed.

If you are flexible to considering alternatives other than a MSC I'd recommend my shop, Oak Island Aviation, at KSUT. The owner built and flew his first plane at age 12. He is an aeronautical engineer and IA who worked for Cessna an CJs for about 10 years before deciding to get out of the corporate environment and open his own shop. My plane was serviced by a well known MSC for at least 20 years before I purchased it. He discovered numerous "oversights, mistakes and omissions" when he went thru the plane. He regularly services at least 20 Mooney's from all over the SE.

+1 for Bevan. They completely overhauled my KX 165 for around $1200. Works as good as new.

I have been flying my K for almost 1000 hours and simply love it. Since I live in N.C. and the vast majority of my missions are in the SE folks will tell you a K is a waste of money. After a lot of XCs I will disagree. In the mid teens I true out between 170-175 running LOP at 65% power (9.9 GPH). However, my typical mission is 4-600miles each way so I can take advantage of winds aloft. Another other big benefit is to get out of most thermal activity and get a smooth ride. More than once we’ve been comfortable at 16K where at 12K you’d be getting bounced around in hard IMC. But with a mission of less than 200 miles you can’t take advantage of the high altitude performance of the K to justify the additional operating expenses. The J model is also slightly faster below 8K. If I were in your situation I wouldn’t consider any Turbocharged aircraft.

The interior screws are typically #4 sheet metal screws with trim washers. You can use a #6 screw and still use the #4 trim washer. It looks a little different but not objectionable if it’s only a few screws. You can also make a shim out of some bare copper wire like 20-22awg. Cut pieces about 1” long and fold them tightly in half using pliers. Then insert one side inside the hole leaving the other half outside. This effectively reduced the hole so the #4 will have something to bite into. There are some professional products out there made out of stainless that will do the same thing if you want to go that route. Other methods like converting to machine screws by using nutserts or 3M Dual Lock for a no screw look are also other methods.

Bottom of the green is OK. Are your vacuum instruments working properly? From what I’ve been told, from several sources, is that you don’t need to run excessive vacuum. The higher the vacuum, the more wear on the instruments.

+1 for Henry Weber

Lemon Pledge! I wipe it down every 25 hours or so. 3 cans for $10 at Sam's Club

When I purchased my 231 I picked it us at a well known MSC. I asked why the cowl flaps did not close completely. The service manager explained that a slight 1/2” opening will improve cooling and won’t affect airspeed. I've left it alone for 12 years. I can’t see any loss of speed. My oil temp in cruise is always around 170F. #2 cylinder which is the hottest is typically 365F.

Looked at my plane. You can’t remove the pin on the turbo inspection door. If your door is discolored from heat I’d investigate as to why, not just throw some insulation at it. The turbo is not supposed to get so hot that it burns the paint. If it is, you most probably have some delamination of the cowl fiberglass.