Shadrach

Quote: flyboy0681

Quote: TLSDriver I have an awkward question. I have a new neighbor that keeps asking me to take him for a flight. Normally that would be a fun and I would go in a second. Here is the issue: I don't know for sure but I think he weighs around 300lbs....(range is 275-350.) Wondering if there is a nice way to ask him how much do you weigh? Will the wing be happy with this weight on it? Seat take that weight? I can already imagine we would be cozy but I want to make sure I am not getting my self into a dangerous situation or one that may do some harm to the plane. On the other hand if not then lets go fly! Would like to be a good neighbor. The plane is a 1998 Bravo. Thoughts on how to handle this?

Quote: 201er Well if you put all the J mods on the earlier models, you have a lighter/shorter version of the J so it isn't much surprising (namely the cowl and sloped windshield). Actually what I'm kind of surprised about is that an E modified into a J isn't even a little faster as the result of lower drag/weight.

In terms of weight, I believe the IO360 is heavier by ~40lbs. In terms of speed E vs C. 1) a good C model is a 145kt bird in cruise. On the deck with everthing forward a good one will likely break 150kts. 2) injected engines will do sightly better at lower MPs (high altitude) getting better fuel distribution. 3) The higher C/R bird will always be more efficient and make more power for a given Alt. 4) Ram air. As many experts have stated, the intake on the A,B,C,E,F,G models was less than ideal. With the Ram air, my engine picks up anywhere >1" to a .25" depending on alt, temp and barometric pressure. This is more significant than people think in the 4K-6K foot range. The carbed birds have no Ram Air. All of the above being said, the 180-200 M20s are all within about a 20kt range give or take a few kts in speed with some overlaping others. Airfacts Magazine raced and M20E against a Comanche 250 back the mid 60's and the E model walked away from it while down on the deck. I've seen Cs that will run with Fs and Es that will run with Js. There's more at hand then just 20hp.

Quote: 201er I still don't quite understand how the same IO360 engine creates 20HP more when fuel injected than carbeurated. Otherwise the engines are identical right? How does fuel injection make 20 more horsepower?

Quote: jetdriven I'm asking Bill wheat just how they got 201 MPH from a M20J back in 1976 at Kerrville.

Jerry's a nice guy, but I think avBlend is snake oil...or rather just mineral oil (>99% see below) with blue dye in it. I can't see anything that suggests it's anything more than hype... http://www.zmax.com/documents/msds_105_avblend.pdf As for Aerofusion, They do not offer an MSDS, though I've requested one. I also inquired about FAA approval. If I hear back, I'll let you know.

As the owner of an unmodded F, but who has some limited experience with J models I can tell that the advantages you see in the vitage birds is real. If given the choice between a J and well modded F with manual gear and flaps, the vintage bird would win my vote, all other things being equal. They are lighter, simpler and typically have better payload (I've seen deltas ~200lbs for 2740lb MGW birds)...and the cost of entry is less. If modding yourself, you're talking a whole other can of worms. It is near impossible to get the sloped windshield mod now and the costs of modernizing a vitage bird will never translate dollar for dollar to resale value. After turning wrenches on a few different models from a number of years, I feel that Mooney did some of their highest quality work in 66, 67 and early 68. At the end of the day, they're all good birds (a couple of less the stellar years under AEL, then Butler and Republic), get the most you can for the money and enjoy.

Quote: astelmaszek Shadrach, Try KJAC at $6.70, KMDW at $6.67 or KCBF, my home base at $5.99. Pumping it yourself is not an option at any one of these airports. I'd say 21 an hour would be more accurate than 19. The maintenance budget might be a bit over blown after first year, but first year on a 21 year old airplane, I'd say it's pretty accurate if you want everything to be perfect again. Then include engine ($30 an hour), prop ($5 an hour), paint ($5 an hour) and interior reserves ($5 an hour) and it really adds up. I've always counted on 1 hour of maintenance per 1 hour of flight in a complex, turbo'd single plus half the hourly amount in parts. I mean an oil change alone is going to run 2 hours plus 12 quarts so about $250. 4 of them a year is $1000. Now throw in a King Gyro and Autopilot issue and you're easily writting a check for $5000 and that's if you're lucky before all is said and done to ferry the airplane, get it fixed, ferry it back. I've seen annuals blow thru $10K with just a few 'minor' issues. Look at the $1890 price for a voltage regulator. Better have that budget and not spend it (I know I will eventually) than sweat at annuals and maintenance events. Most people underestimate costs of ownership, I'd rather do the opposite and occasionally be pleasantly surprised. It's kind of a like getting a $200 dollar bill from your attorney, you're starting to wonder if it's time to look for a new one because this one is apparently going senile, forgetting to tripple bill ;-) Andy

Are you referring to the bayonet style thermocouple?

Quote: scottfromiowa Texas and Florida...O.K. Iowa winter, not so much. That is crazy good life for truck tires. My wife's Tourag already replaced. It is a big heavy pig though...Tourag, not wife

Quote: Mitch He's great except for his choice of motorcycles.

If it were me, I would use 3M Scotch-Weld 2216 Epoxy Adhesive Gray http://apps.ellsworth.com/library/Library/TDS/en/TDS05952.pdf http://apps.ellsworth.com/library/Library/MSDS/en/MSDS24207.pdf I've had good success with it in areas that have been exposed to oil. It's more expensive than PRC but is supperior for the task at hand.

Quote: DaV8or

Quote: astelmaszek KSMoniac, It's exactly this attitude that got us where we are today: just be glad is semi available. At $1860 a pop for what at most is $100 of eletronic components is wrong. I have no problem paying $1860 or $1890 or whatever it is, but at that price I want it on my door step the same day and since I pay my bills and don't complain, I want my A&P to install it yesterday. No, I am not kidding, that is how the rest of world works in this stratosphere. This is what I deliver to my clients hence I can afford to fly and I expect the same. What is the point, here is the breakdown: -$2000 monthly payment -$250 a month in insurance -$240 a month for a hangar full of frogs -$875 a month for avgas -$1750 a month in maintenance and parts -databases, XM weather, training, etc at $300 a month That's $66K a year to fly 75 hours a year not including my time at $400 or so an hour, include that in there, and I am better of with 30 hours of jet charter per year and yes, I can aford it, the problem is I like to fly and for the money spent, I would like to be treated like I am around a jag and/or a lexus dealership.

That would have to be a huge piece of debris given that the fuel tank screen area is roughly 7 times that of the fuel pick up diameter...

If this is where you say it is, I believe that the alt/gen may need to come out to get a torque wrench on it. I am glad that it was only a leak at the parting flanges as this is often correctable. Do keep us posted.

I second John's comments, If you're going to have it rigged, take it to someone who has been doing it for years. Paying someone else to learn is always more expensive. Weber's been doing this stuff since the 60's and there's likely a reason why they won't guaranty same day. It kind of makes you wonder why the others will... I too, will through my hat in if you need someone to run you back to Mt Pleasant.

Quote: Mitch The clearance between the side of the tire and the lower nose leg on the FCIII is approx. 1/8". The clearance on the FSII is about 1/32" more. This doesn't seem like much but it might be enough to have caused issues for others at one time or another. Possibly this dimension difference could become an critical in conjunction with the gear door adjustments.

Quote: kaufmath thanks for all the advice. fuel selector was locked on left tank. no bits of anything in gascolator screen and never a drop in fuel pressure. for fun, after it was running fine again, i moved the fuel selector to see how far towards OFF you could go before the engine would die. half-way between left and off, fuel pressure drops and engine sputters. i was no-where near that selection though the day of the event. we have all the fuel hoses off for replacement, and the fuel servo AD mentioned above investigated and does not apply. is there such a thing as 'vapor lock'? and if so, wouldn't the fuel pressure drop? i'm debating sending the fuel servo in for inspection, though it was re-built 5 years ago. cleaning fuel nozzles too.

I would start with an inspection of the of the fuel selector and tank.

I too cut my teeth on old bikes. My flight instructor owned a small FBO and let me turn wrenches, pump gas and sweep the shop in exchange for flight time. He was also kind enough to allow me the use of his 70' Triumph Bonneville when I was short on wheels. This inspired me to buy and restore a few old brit twins as well as undertake some automotive R&R. I too would like to sit for the A&P test, but need to defer until I can afford to devote the time. I currently work with 2 IAs that I've built a relationship with. The more I do, the easier the relationship gets. When I factor in my time, the cost of ownership is about the same, but the comfort that comes from knowing my bird inside and out is invaluable in terms of satisfaction, safety and trouble shooting ability. I will never unkowingly be taken advantage of again whether at home or away. I hope you find a quick and reasonable solution and I look forward to reading about it!

The danger with tires that have little clearence is the rolled lip of the nose gear door interlocking with the tread when deploying the gear. I noticed this when adjusting the gear doors at annual last year. There really is not a huge amount of clearence and if they hang up, it could put you in a world of hurt...

Quote: AustinPynes I actually read your post, was it here or on AOPA, about your experience with the leak. Sounds brutal...

I 2nd the 3M product. It actually removes the damaged surface of the lens and is superior to the filler polishes that are on the market. As with most things worth doing, it is the most labor intensive way of tackling the problem, but will give the best and most long lasting results.