Steve65E-NC

A very good welder can carefully build up the corner or: if previously filed down, the entire parallel surface. Try heliarc and 5356 rod. Stay clear of the pivot hole. After the weld build up it is probably better to use a mill, vise and parallels to get the primary parallel surface flat (file sides back to flat first). I am not sure a square corner is needed or best. This would create a lot of over center action and may not be good for the fuel tank flange or the large O-Ring. However, any corner radius must leave some flat distance forward of the perpendicular tangent point to the pivot rod center so that there is toggle action to hold tab flat. If you need new pivot hardened dowels, you might consider the ground off clean end of a 1/8" drill bit, these are cheap and readily available. If the dowel is loose a little punch work on the narrow flat of the aluminum latch tab should work to recreate the light press fit on the pivot rod. Of course this welded/ build-up fix will require prep/repaint of the latch tab after the fitting is complete. And also sign off by an A&P.

It would be helpful to have some idea of your geographic location. After five minutes of mucking with the member list, I am still in the dark on that. However, I think it would be worth your time to call Jim Miller 757-488-7700, Bay Avionics, Hampton Roads Virginia Airport (South west of Norfolk).

I am fed up with Gills. However, it gives me pause that I must buy a $180 battery specific charger from Battery Minder to maintain either of the gel Concordes. What are other doing? Are you buying the specialized charger when you change over??

Kevin Walker (cell 407-361-2058) at K&G Aviation, Ormand Beach, FL used to be a Mooney dealer and has done many annuals for me. I think you would have to get the aircraft up to his facility.

There is an A or B at a local grass strip here in Western NC that might be at that stage. I will see if I can track down the owner. Would you consider buying a whole airplane?

Thanks. Did not realize that. My drain back tubes leak a bit from time to time but are usually fixed by just snugging up the nut a bit. No pressure on those so far less risk.

I recommend that any A&P stop drill crack and rivet doubler to inside of door. Prepaint doubler and touch up rivets with brush. We are not talking much cost here : just as good as new : stronger than new : nothing cosmetically noticable.

Oil supply lines to Cylinder?? Maybe on your Bravo, not on my E. Am I missing something. Do you mean oil return lines?

On my 65E, the compass light is on this same circuit. It seems easier to short than post lights. Include it in trouble shooting.

Opps. My head got on automatic based on my own experience.

First: Your sudden problem with CHT on #3 may be a partially plugged injector. Fits what I have seen. I recommend having that injector pulled and cleaned with a soak in gun cleaner. You do not tell us the year so I do not know if you have the inner dog house over the engine. If before about 67, you probably do have the dog house, like my 65E. If so, I take a tube of high temp silicon, look from the inside with the outer cowling removed, make sure any seam openings in the sheet aluminum dog house are sealed (give it time to cure). I get concerned anytime my CHT gets over 400 for more than a minute or so. Second: Check your aux pump fuel pressure with the engine off. I think they are all a littly noisy. Third: Check your regulator voltage at the battery, or other heavy connection, with the engine running. My JPI always shows something less than does the battery. Probably varies with the load you have on that buss. Steve 65E NC

I use an old tennis ball with a small x cut. I took an 18"x1.5" ribbon of sunbrella fabric, bright orange, and put it in a second small cut 90 degrees away from first. Very visible. This fabric holds it's color. The fabric was left over from a tail opening bra that you can see in my gallery (if it all transferred over).

Airframe hours and condition please. My 65E has 3500 hours and tabs will not latch down flat even after careful adjustment. If yours are so worn I might still be interested to experiment with weld build-up repair, but would like a lower price.

My levers snap down with less and less authority. I think the problem is purely the rounding of the corner on the lever. This corner cams between lever toggled up and lever toggled down positions. The cap casting itself shows no wear in this area. Nothing about the lever, except the corner has or shows any wear. Has anyone had any luck in doing a weld build up and file re-shape of this area. Seems to me that this is a basic repair that could be signed off by any AP mechanic. It is a simple dis-assembly to get down to the bare, apparently Aluminum, part. I assume it is an aluminum die casting, wonder what rod and how best to do a weld build up. I know that new caps are priced at over $300 and that no replacement parts are sold by the manufacturer down in Naples, Fl.

I have small leaks at the base of both fuel drain fittings. I know that just tightening the fitting is a good way to twist it out of shape and destroy the insert. In 2004 I replaced Flush Valve Drain O-rings MS-29513-014. In 2009 I installed new Flush Valve Drain insert assemblies F391-53S . The problem persists as a growing brown spot around the base of both valves and significant (maybe .5 gal/week) on the right side drain. I am thinking about alternate O-rings or use of tank sealant to seal fitting in. Any suggestions?? Steve 65E NC

I thought we were focused on the horrible end and the confusion over STC ownership. The stuff with Coy and that early break-up is pretty well established. That is unless Coy still had a debt interest at the end, which I never heard about. "Ser che la femme (sp?)" is the interesting part. And, may do more to bring us to current STC status.

I think I would tape the three grey stripe to a one sided point just back from the rivit line and then use the the dark blue in a touch up gun to shorten/modify the stripes and blend the cowel closure. I thinking trying to bring the stripes up to the spinner (over the rivits and the seam) may not come out so clean.

As I recall. There was a pretty girl somewhere in the equation. An aerospace engineer or some such. Romance implied or inferred. I have always wondered what the scoop was. Can anyone give a brief?

Is Garmin repairable??? Why do we keep buying from a company which will not maintain spares and service on such expensive equipment for a reasonable time. We have given them the market. They don't deserve to keep it.

Wonder why Tim did not post a guard over the fleet. This sort of thing is not hard to anticipate after a hurricane. If I had left an aircraft there and it was damaged by looters, I would have held the owner "personally" liable.

They had a really nice paint shop. Lots of interesting mods. I did not have work done but stopped in several times. I think I talked to Kevin who went on to other interesting things. After Coy, things were great for a time. Then I think management over-reached. Seems like a pretty girl might have been part of the equation. The hurricane made a real mess. Many of the existing Porsche Mooneys were there to be converted over to lycoming and were destroyed. After the hurricane we just heard no more. Too bad as they held a number of interesting STCs. I have no idea what happened to the ownership of those STCs.

See the last two photos in the Mod folder at my photo gallery Steve65E-NC for a little cleaner install method. Involves de-riviting and interleaving rather than just tacking on top. I have like this mod very well.

Immelman, I just sent you contact info in a MooneySpace PM Steve

I have a friend with an available pair of Alirons from a 64C. He says they were changed out when he added a New Brittian PC control. Can anyone explain why that change out would have been necessary? If interested post here and I will respond private.