Steve65E-NC

Well, yes I do have thoughts. Why give up any little bit of usable window area. I noticed that some of the later Mooneys have about six inches of un-usable window area at the back of the rear window. The extra window length appeared to be just for styling. With that in mind I have used black lettering-type film to make radiused extensions to the rear windows of my 65E (see thumbnail photo above). I experimented with several different lengths by using MS Paint on a photo. I think several lengths are still in my photo album. Close inspection will show that mine even overlap the baggage door. I have had them in place for about five years with no problems. I tried several colors but just black seems to work best. Any other color starts reading as part of the paint scheme.

No thoughts on this topic. Steve65E-NC

THE SOLUTION: Before buying new supply or tubes, I called an xham xmooneyowner for his thoughts. He said that since all three flashed on shut down I might want to check the switch/circuit breaker before spending big bucks. I think the flashes indicate both high voltages available, at least for that instant. First with master off I checked the switch on resistance with probes to the screws and found about 4 ohms. Next, with Master and Strobe turned on I used a short wire to jumper across the Strobe switch in the cockpit. I saw some sparks and knew right then I was onto something. Sure enough, all three strobes on and working. The Strobe Switch/cb was marked as 10 amp. My I/A had plenty of 20 amp, no ten amp. Holding the switch vertical I made multiple applications of contact cleaner and cycled the switch. It seemed to loosen up. Sure enough on reinstall, after cleaning all switch connections, it worked fine. So the peanut butter does not alway hit the floor first. Thanks to all who offered solutions and equipment. Steve PS: on to removing a couple of vertical exhaust stacks with small seam leaks. I was surprised at the hidden erosion, right next to the head, of some of the bolts at the ball joints. Will probably just replace all those bolts.

Thanks all. Since all three tubes are now not working. How do I best test them?? Any way to do it with a DVM? One does show some black inside the tube is that a give away for a failed tube?? Steve65E-NC

I read about a Whelen Strobe Check unit that Aircraft Spruce sells for about $175.00. It apparently allows check of supply and tubes. Anyone have one that they want to sell, rent, or loan. Apparently bad tubes may crash a good supply so all need testing. Steve65E-NC

Today as we annualed my 65E we discovered no Port or Tail Strobe except a single flash on system power down. The Starboard worked initially and then joined the others. Suspect common cause. The single, fuselage mounted, Whelen Power Supply is an A413A HDA-DF-14. Whelen says they no longer make or repair this unit. They suggest replace with a CF-14. Looks like close to a thousand $ to replace. Probably just Capacitors. Any suggestions on someone to rebuild/repair. A type and source for capacitors. Or a source for a servicable unit.

I agree that you could probably do just as well technically making up your own sub-spar. However, the $3,000 from Mooney actually sounds pretty reasonable. And, you might make that much up on resale just for logging that you have used certified Mooney parts for the repair. I know that gear-ups, repaired with Mooney parts are treated with some respect by the market. Also, you might get some free engineering consults from the factory. Ask in advance about support.

Take your repair facility advice on overhall vs Inpect/Repair IRAN and yellow tag. Often there are expensive parts replacements dictated by an overhaul that can really be left in place if they inspect ok.

Now we know how the folks of Iraq and Afganistan feel. I bet all of those government, quasi military, actors spent time there and got their police training there. All the control and intimidation techniques that you described were developed in and for those theatres. We repress others at the risk of being repressed ourselves.

Bob, Strange website for Naviator. You did not give a link so a search bought me to Naviatorapp which I think you are referring to. Looks interesting but no pricing or detail on alternatives or purchase. Is there a better website or review to learn about it?

What could go wrong that could not be fixed? Are parts not available? I will save my sex appeal dollars for something that I do not already have. I bet someone on this list has any part that you might need.

Now that these are available to the public $1500, it would be great to have a preliminary report on their use, or potential use, as a heads-up display. Moving map with weather while looking out for traffic. Anyone close to giving it a try? I assume an android tablet could be linked to display. Touch stuff lost for now: but still. Will this end the search for the perfect display mount?

Mine said Mooney 201. Close enough. Wish I could justify moving up. I am surprised they asked nothing about passenger or load or range requirements. But, mission based choice is the key. Steve65E-NC

I bet the "local A&P" who did the pre-buy is feeling pretty bad about this. And, he may be concerned for his livelyhood. Wonder if you thought creatively, and maybe worked through a mediator, you could find some common ground. For example, many bent wings probably have clean sub-spars*. Maybe he would contribute time and labor to pull one of those from a wing that you found (pretty cheap for the bent wing I bet) and deliver it to you cleaned primed and ready to install. He might even volunteer to kick in other amentities up to and including some of the cash costs just to keep you happy. *If new subspars are drilled in place this does not count and you will have to be more creative.

The wing plan looks like a Piper instead of a Mooney. Have you thought about building another wing? Looks like the wing attaches easily.

Dave, Sounds like a winning strategy. I agree with you about the relative safety of an additional short flight. I also thought the photos of the sub-spar replacement were great and I filed that article. Congrats on finding a licensed mechanic to assist you. Please keep us informed. If it works out he or you all might want to set up a business. Steve65E-NC

I think there are a number of C's of that vintage sitting around with run-out engines, dated electronics, thread bare interiors, etc. But, with solid airframes/wings. Those will probably also wind up scrapped but with little engine/electronics value. Maybe you could arrange an exchange and move all your good stuff right over. Anyone on list know of a C model candidate at a supper cheap price

Wow, that's too bad and the photos look pretty bad. Even so, I think I would get a second opinion, maybe from a real expert like the folks at Lasar. What is the position of the A&P who did the pre-buy? If you have flown it this far, I believe a mechanic can get a ferry permit.

Take all the bits of the old one and the sketch from your post to the local welding shop. Make sure they draw or temper the completed arc weld with a torch to avoid brittleness. Difficult to imagine what they could not fix. This is just a hanger, not a precision machine part.

Israel lead was given to my source by a long time Mooney owner. I told him I would check it out on the web lists. Guess it could have been the Mite M-19 mentioned above. So far no one has offered any verification. I don't think that military is constrained by jungle conditions. And, If the mission were essentially kamakazi (no reason to believe this), landing would not matter much. Steve

About a decade ago a retired Marine General told me that the US Marines had briefly evaluated the Mooney as an observation or close support aircraft. Probably Vietnam era. As I recall, he said the conflict was winding down and this went nowhere. Yesterday a fellow was telling me, with some confidence, that the Republic of Israel had actually developed the Mooney as a weapon at some point in the past and did deployed it. I had never heard this before. Anybody have more historical information on either of these two leads??? I think we all know that Mooney offered a bubble canopy prototype for an Airforce trainer. Steve

Mine were pinned at full. We unscrewed the gang connector on the back of the block of gages and treated both sides of connector with spray contact cleaner. Seemed to change the problem away from full. I will need to fly a bit to see if their was real improvement. I was able to remove two screws on the panel and swing the block down enough to remove the connector with the careful help of pump pliers. Move gently as there is also a flexible oil pressure line attached below the electrical and lots of wiring bundles in the area. Check any grounding screws for tightness while down there.

Aaron, But that is why you have a baggage door. If yours does not have an inside handle a piece of safety wire and a short dowel will create one. Feed the wire through a small hole in the cover and twist around the dowel as a handle. A little experimenting will show where on the latch mechanism to attach the other end of the wire. Getting out this way is not that difficult and worth practicing on purpose. You will have to move luggage around as you step from front to back seat, unlatch baggage door, stick your head/shoulders out through the baggage door, step into the baggage area and step out on the wing. I am 6'1", 200 lb, 71 years and it is easy for me. You never know when an accident will jam the door. If the rear is stuffed to the brim, it can be tricky. But this manuver keeps some ego intact.

I trust that most everyone on this vintage list has their box of 3M Strip Caulk. It is black and sticky but I think it is the only thing that does the job. I make sure it is on both borders of screw holes on the two instrument access panels. If you do not have a box already, buy two (Aircraft Spruce). Carry a little in a plastic bag in the airplane. You may be able to reshape it once, but you usually need some extra for a sure seal. Early in my Mooney ownership, I purchased some magic white foam sheet from Norm Smith (rest his soul) for this application. I took off from Williamsburg, VA after a rain storm. The water had poured through and flooded the big intake vac filter just below the panel. As I climbed out both the AH and the Gyro Compass began to foam up inside their transparent fronts. The rebuild/replacement of both cost me about $1700. Since that time I am a firm follower of the 3M Caulk and never mind the mess.

Location is near to me here in Hickory, Western Piedmont, "North Carolina".