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Everything posted by kortopates
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MT props no longer have to go back to MT in FL for maintenance, there are many prop shops now that work on them including my favorite prop shop in CA, American Propeller. they don’t give a choice of leading edge on the J&K props, just stainless. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Better climb and no cruise loss. it’s normally several months to get it, but i still had to wait for them to get the de-ice boots and install them. the first shipment from germany got lost! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Mine is installed directly straight in front. As a HUD its not blocking anything and allows me to focus on the runway during the final approach. I too was concerned about it being an impediment and considered installing it off to one side but listened to the vendor and glad I did. After takeoff and in cruise I have it pulled down out of view.
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Many C172’s have only the two servo install. It’s very annoying since anytime you either change airspeed/power or want to change altitude the AP starts annunciating TRIM UP or TRIM DOWN. You become the third servo and you’ll be called on a lot more than you would likely expect. Okay for a trainer that spends most its time in the pattern but quite annoying for an owner flown xctry airplane. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Plus i assume you’ll need the prop de-ice added (although you did mention polished prop). You’ll notice much improved climb including a steeper pitch attitude at Vx. i had to make “boots” to fit over the 2 of the blades. I used silicone baffling material. The boots protect the prop when i am R&Ring the lower cowling. i don’t yet have that job down to a one person operation like i had with the old 2 blade prop. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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i believe you have to remove the starter adapter to read the part # on the gear- which is a bit more involved. But the engine doesn’t have to be disassembled to replace the gear. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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But only after complying with all their SB’s. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Very true, as the guy that's not only paying the bills but doing all the work, after repairing most of connecting rods in my gear doors, all with enlarged openings (mine has 3 gear doors per side). I have since reduced my gear down speed to 110-120 kts from 140. Occasionally If I am getting slam dunked I may exceed 120, but my norm is 110-120. That's going to be challenge for a new Mooney pilot but it doesn't take that long to be able to get it slowed down without the gear and then the gear will thank you for it.
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This is most misinterpreted limitation in the POH. In order to have a higher limit for partial flaps, don't you think they would specify a an amount of flaps and a higher airspeed? See the J models - the only Mooney's that have an approved higher partial flaps air speed limitation and its only for a small range of serial numbers, which are not even the last ones produced. After 34-3078, with the introduction of the 28V J's they went right back to single flap speed limitation. You won't find any such higher partial flaps speed in any other Mooney including the R, they all look like your R:
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Location of gear up switch
kortopates replied to Matthew P's topic in Vintage Mooneys (pre-J models)
As Scott indicated. There is actually two, one for gear down and one for gear up. The gear down is furthest aft and will be obvious if looking at it with gear down. -
Epilogue to the purchase of a Mooney Ovation in Europe
kortopates replied to Jose Jo's topic in General Mooney Talk
17,000’ with 94% saturation without supplemental O2 sounds super human to me! But congratulations on getting your Ovation. Don’t worry, landings will get easier as you get better in trimming the aircraft to approach speed. Properly trimmed the flare/round out comes very easily. its only work when it’s not trimmed for the final approach speed. Enjoy! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk -
They used too. The majority of that talent is gone now with factory operating on a skeleton crew. As has been mentioned. The factory is still making parts. I’ve never waited more than 3-4 weeks for parts despite initially hearing 3 months multiple times. It sucks to be AOG when something Mooney specific breaks. But more often than not, it’s not a Mooney specific airframe part that needs to be sourced but a standard part like a gear limit switch or a relay or a switch. Or a Mooney part that can be repaired like an electric cowl flap motor, or voltage regulator. Things you really never want to pay $ for a new replacement part when they can be repaired. Being a Mooney owner is more about learning how to source and repair parts than worrying about factory parts availability. As long as they still remain in business i am not overly concerned. Besides no matter what concerned discussions we have here, the factory will continue to do their best to survive as they see fit. That even includes a few unsuccessful people that have tried to invest serious amount of money to see the factory tackle projects without response.
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LED Replacement for Whelen Model #70303 Light
kortopates replied to StevenL757's topic in Avionics / Parts Classifieds
I agree on the limited product development testing/prototyping resulting in a less than ideal design. But as for ever seeing a versions 2 don’t forget how many years it took ver 1 to come on the market. It must be well over a decade! the hidden leds should be an embarrassment to Whelen but i think it’s still mostly effective as is. As you say, still a big Win. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk -
Actually Juan, the factory rollers are made of phenolic. Lasar.com has a PMA for their Deldrin rollers. They have PMA for many alternate Mooney parts but under new ownership moved from CA to Oregon and are still working on getting their approvals - so not all of their parts are currently available again; one even recently went through a recall process. But suggest you review Lasar’s offering for any overlap before pursing them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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i am with you there on free trials, but there is no sign up, just needs to be enabled. Apple hasn’t announced what they may charge after 2 years but you have to actively choose to send and receive them so should have any surprise fees. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Or you’re not flying high enough! [emoji3] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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So you are also a new owner? How many seconds of prime to do give it and using which pump? I trust it has had the duel diverter removed? Continentals do not flood easily, they are in fact quite thirsty at startup.
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You have to do that very carefully, since you don't want to sand the bare aluminum and sand off the thin Alclad surface. The Alclad surface provides corrosion protection for for the underlying aluminum alloy. But as you try to remove the loose surrounding paint it will likely keep flaking off. There are also signs in places where it appears the prior paint job wasn't stripped fully but just painted over (but could be signs of prior owner touch up too). It would be very easy to ruin the aluminums skins without the proper professional guidance/supervision in prepping bare aluminum.
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The paint has to have good adhesion to make it worthwhile to touch up. But picts look like paint is peeling off indicating the prep on the original paint job was sub-par. It’s really not worth trying to patch up the paint if it’s that the case. Just like it’s not worth trying to patch a leaky tank if the sealant is in poor shape. I suggest to go visit a professional paint shop and see if they think the paint is in good enough shape to patch but i bet they’ll tell you the problem now is because the prior job was very poorly done. This isn’t a little touch up either but a lot. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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In my plane its on a yoke mount, rarely overheats here. But in client aircraft its on my leg where it has happened multiple times. But with the MyGoFlight case with built-in fan its has become a non event for me.
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IMHO the JPI EDM-900 is perfect in the mooney on the pilot side - although i do almost all my flying from right seat - this position keeps all of the engine parameters within my scan between PFD and Navigators. Off to right is out of my scan. As much as i love Garmin products, as you can see from my panel pict, i am not a big fan of their EIS. Although it has the best integration possible and monitors most everything i find it lacking in too many ways which has kept me from adopting it. i am also not a fan of the smaller circular displays including the GI-275 EIS. But for those that don’t have the panel space, the small circular displays are far better than going without an engine monitor. Just be sure to learn how to use it and keep it in your scan. There is so much vital information there that it can save your engine and your butt when properly utilized. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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I have the same Alpha HUD displays, Don mentions, on both sides since we’re 2 pilots and HUD is intended to be looked through - not from the side. You’ll have to decide if you want to add the heated probe (i did) and flaps option (i didn’t). Without the flaps option they recommend setting it up for a clean stall, but that seemed silly to me since i almost always do full flap landings. So after consulting with Don i followed his lead and configured it for full flaps stalls. The default installation probe angle won’t work on the Mooney wing, i had to adjust the probe angle by one notch. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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The vast majority of owner flown aircraft engines suffer from corrosion. It’s really much less about total hours and more about calendar time and infrequent use and how the aircraft is stored between flights. Flight schools are pretty much the opposite side of the spectrum compared to the infrequent use by the average owner. Mike Busch is an example of an owner flown engines going over 3500 hrs before overhaul. Everybody has their opinions though about going past TBO, many shops set a limit where they won’t annual a plane past a certain number of hours past TBO and the DPE’s under my FSDO won’t do a checkride when the engine exceeds 3000 hrs. Yet there is no statistical data to support any of that. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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I’ve been using RealClean for the belly, it’s designed for removing turbine soot and extremely effective getting the exhaust deposits and any oil off the belly and totally safe for aircraft. Totally aircraft safe and Easier faster than mineral spirits and other cleaners i’ve tried. But i haven’t tried Goof off yet. https://realcleanproducts.com/products/turbine-soot-master?srsltid=AfmBOoqC9wyYYrALcus2FYc_6nhZ51Z5tCT4ISxKGgdPZSfJd4pW6lWZ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk