kortopates

Yes - this was my questions to you in my first post - you have to be updating the OBS on the CDI as you sequence through waypoints in your GPS while in NAV mode. Do it when your GPS provides the turn anticipation but if it just provides a fixed 35 sec warning, then you have to estimate (i.e. 10 sec for 30 degree intercept). Turning the Heading bug while in Nav mode doesn't do anything. But note if you are peforming VOR navigation, then you KFC manual tells you switch to use HDG mode just as you approach the VOR and to turn to the new heading and course and then set the new course into your OBS of the CDI and switch back to NAV mode once your past the zone of confusion right over the VOR. Your installation must have GPSS capability before you no longer need to keep updating the OBS on the CDI to follow a series of waypiint in NAV mode.

Quote: allsmiles

Concur that it shouldn't be going past the current Heading bug value - if when you've come to the desired heading you're GPS and CDI is not indicating a major deflection - more than a couple dots. In other words, if the plane is not on the desired GPS Track when it completes the turn to the desired course it wouldn't be abnormal for the AP to have to continue the turn to correct for being offset from the desired Track. Quote: txbyker Last night I set up a GPS approach, got ATC cleared to the first point. I had the GPS approach loaded, pressed NAV, moved the CDI to the desired track and set the heading bug on the CDI course. The plane turned toward the new heading and blew past the first GPS approach point.

Quote: txbyker My KAP seems to fly through the intersections and not aggressively grab the new track. I say aggressively because if for example I start out in HDG mode and change to NAV, turn the heading bug to the new CDI course it will roll towards the new course and eventually come close to tracking the new course after shooting past the desired track. Then in about 1 degree every 4-5 seconds it will creep back to the desired track. I have to fly a GPS approach with autopilot for my checkride. When in APR mode it flies right past the turn. HDG bug works fine by the way. From the description its a bit difficult to tell if you are indeed turning the Course knob/OBS on the CDI, when in NAV mode, to the desired new course as the GPS sequences to the next waypoint. Changing the Heading, of course does nothing when in NAV mode. Could this be why "in APR mode it flies right past the turn". Perhaps its worthwhile to review how to properly enter Approach mode so you can verify its not an operator issue and a AP issue. (This all assumes you don't have an additional GPSS capability between the GPS and AP, which I could be wrong but don't think is supported by your KLN94 and you make no mention of GPSS.) The standard KAP 150 uses the KG107 and second CDI but may have the optional KI 525A HSI combing the two. I'll assume the KG107. First, the approach mode is not armed till you are intercepting the final approach course. While in heading mode, and on a heading to intercept the final approach course, place the OBS of the CDI set on the final approach course. Then press APR and it will blink indicating it is armed. Within 5 seconds, move the heading "bug" of the KG107 to the same heading as the selected course of on the CDI. The autopilot will fly an automatic 45 degree intercept heading until within the capture zone, then intercept and fly the desired course with the HDG light going off and the APR mode goes from arm to engage. If APR mode is selected within +/- 4 degrees and withn 2-3 dots on the CDI the ARM mode is bypassed and APR mode will engage directly. There are many more complicated scenarios in your King AP manual to review, such as approaches with course reversals and Back Course, but I wouldn't assume an AP issue till you verified its not working following the above simple intercept procedure, taken from your AP manual. Enjoy and good luck with your IFR training.

Quote: thinwing I have had goodluck by applying a single layer of black non slip tred tape availble at any hardware store.This stuff is availble in 6in/3in wide widths and you remove backing and apply,also works with the step.Now when you place towbar you kinda screw it in but nomatter how hard you pull or what angle it will not suddenly slip out and dump you on your butt..kpc

Good point about the squelch - easiest way to check that is to turn off the automatic squelch on the 430 by pressing the comm knob in too see the difference - especially to see if your picking up noise on the frequency (like interference). COMM sqelch is adjustable in the COM Setup page (a 64 value range) yet the manual indicates these values are set by the factory and seldom require calibration.

I would asap. I get excellent clear service in both my 430's - only exception is taxiing adjacent to and below the airport tower and their antenna's - you should too! You may be pleasantly surprised to learn the issue is from nothing more than a loose coax connection as is often the case. Since your description suggest you may always have had poor COM performance on the unit you may want to try checking for interference by turing off all other electrics and seeing if improves your COM signal and if so, re-routing cables will often correct it (assuming you can do this on the ground with radio checks to ground or?) . But perhaps best bet, is to have your shop investigate your Antenna VSWR as it should be < 2:1 and is not to exceed 3:1 per the installation manual (a value of 2:1 causes a 12% drop of output power, a 3:1 more than double). Either way, I would first suspect an issue between the radio and antenna, such as a loose or poor connection. Good Luck!

I'd suggest pulling off the left subpanel enough to connect a multi-meter to the ammeter connections and see if you are getting voltage there or not. If you aren't trace the wiring back till you find the problem and if you are gettting voltage, besides the meter it self, there are fuses right on the meter. Electrical part numbers for fueses and shunts (and your meter) are listed in the back of the Mooney Maint. manual just in front of the electrcal schematics in the rear. However, I wouldn't be concerned with the lack of voltage given you have the another way to get voltage off your (uncertified) davtron, but I would be very concerned about the 100% load on the alternator and wouldn't fly it till the problem is resolved.

Quote: DaV8or

Jim, The run-up practice of turning off a alternator is only necessary with two alternators so that you can see each alternator is actually functioning at the proper 28.1+ voltage. With two alternators the #2 takes almost the whole load and you can't really see that the #1 is putting out till you fail #2 by turning it off. That said, keep folllowing your POH which still has you following the same procedure. But recognize you'll see the Annunciator voltage light blinking when you turn on the master, as well as 24volts on the meter (when working) and then see it the light go off and voltage go up to 28V after start up to verify the system - thus you can make the checks without failing/turning off the alternator after startup. If you by chance have a JPI or the like engine monitor that also reads system volatge you can verify proper volatge there. I beleive your annunciator is already verifying this but would expect the light to come off well before 1400 RPM and more in the 1100-1200 RPM range (unless you have everything turned on in your electrical system like landing lights and pitot heat!). This is further evidence that your battery is too week. Its also possible you have a regulator issue but right now the symptoms suggest an issue with the meter or wiring to it - which hopefully is very simple (meters themselves are very expensive) and likely a weak bettery. Incidentally if you don't yet have a engine monitor - seriously consider getting one installed soon. Your engine is much to big of an investment to operate it without one. Good luck!

Jim, What your neighbor suggested is the first thing you should have tried the first - but see your POH emergency procedure page 3-19 Alternator Low Voltage. I re-looked at page of 7-48 of the POH is describes both meters for single and dual alternators - so I am not concerned about your POH being the wrong version - just your understanding of what you have. Notice the warning of not starting the engine with an external power source with a depleted battry. Have your A&P check our the lack of voltage reading and potential low battery issues before next flight. Good luck!

Jim, Looks like Jack explained why you don't have the button. Notice your meter is already showing volts at the bottom. On our dual alternator meters, the lower scale reads provides two outputs, load without pushing the button and Volts with the button pushed. I haven't seen a POH for the single alternator verison, but if it doesn't also discuss your meters layout, I would be suspicous that your POH may have been replaced with the wong version and would suggest containing Stacey Ellis at Mooney (you could use technicalsupport@mooney.com). A very high alternator output is indicative of a low battery, but you should not be seeing 0 volts. Something is wrong - You would not have been able to start up with 0 volts. There are some fuses on the back of the meter itself (at least for the dual alternator version) and maybe one is popped, or a bad econnection etc. But besides the meter not registering battery voltage, if the high load reading is accurate I'd check the battery too. It may be very weak.

Quote: flyboy0681 Looking at the GTN750 manual, you can set the map page to display any four fields with the following values:...

Quote: mooniac58 Honestly though, with an Aspen PFD and two MFDs I really don't use the GPS for anything other than keying in my route and selecting COM/NAV freqs. For all moving map, traffic, Nexrad, HSI and everything else I am looking at the Aspens 99% of the time - the GPS basically becomes nothing more than an input device like a keyboard on a PC. The GPS provides a lot more useful information than your HSI; especially flying approaches and working to keeping the needles centered. Don't have any time on the Aspen and so I wonder if can display this. So specifically does the Aspen display Desired Track, actual track, and cross-track error i.e. what do you have to tell you're deviating before the needles show you're actually off? I'd guess the HSI automatically updates to show desired track but assume the rest aren't shown? I too have a separate MFD for situational awareness (GMX200) and my GPS's are never on a map page, but set up to display the above 3 fields along with GS, ETE, Dist and VSR. Which is getting used vigorously during any approach. Which makes me worry a bit about the newer 750 is If I eventually want to swap a 430 and a MFD for a new 750, as they are intended to do both functions, I don't want to loose the ability to simultaenously display 6 data fields and my geo-referenced plates together. Yet after my initial review of the user's manual the split screen functionality didn't look possible - but it was only a cursory review and I may have missed it or an ability to have fields on top of a map display. Would agree though that if Aspen displays those values as well I wouldn't have to scan to the GPS for them.

I've done a similar flight MYF-KERV non-stop in my 252 - once - which took close to 6hrs and required use of the long range tanks. For comparison to the Ovation, I plugged in LAS to SAT and got 5:13 and 77.2 gal which still necessitates the LR tanks. At 17.5 my 252 is burning 13.5 G/hr to do 191 kt ROP. Per some (unverified) Bravo performance numbers I got some time ago, it would be burning 21.3 gal/hr to do 208 Kts - So the Bravo will get you another 17 kts for another 7.7 gal/hr - that's more than 50% more fuel burn in cruise than my 252 to save another 20 min, but a Bravo person could confirm those numbers. The Bravo though will have more room in the back and should have a higher useful load. But overall, any K or newer model will need the long range tanks to get you there at their max cruise setting. You'll have to decide how much of a fuel bill you want to pay to get there given the performance options. And you'll seriously need to look closely at the specific useful loads to verify practicality to put on enough fuel to do so with your expected pax and baggage weight. Then as discussed, there is always slowing down to stretch range - but remind me again why we fly Mooneys? Personally though, long legs more than 3 hrs take all the fun out if it, so I'd be stopping for lunch in Las Cruces at the Crossroads Grill.

Although N4352H wasn't specific about the aggravation he went through, I get the impression that many of you don't realize that both a new aileron and a re-skinned one will require the exact same re-rigging and some delicate adjusting after test flying to fly straight - just like when the plane came off the assembly line. Slight imperceptible bends make huge differences in the ailerons and rudders and understanding how and where to bend probably takes more skill than riveting a replacement skin on - something every A&P is taught in school. So my guess is that both Dave's and N4352H planes didn't get the required tweaking they needed after the repaired ailerons were installed and rigged - and new ailerons likley wouldn't have performed any better without the post-flight test tweaking.

Your second AI should be electric. I have standby electric vacuum pump and an electric backup AI. Loss of a vacuum pump, although common, is the not only thing that can bring down your vacuum system - for example the vacuum regulator can go taking out all vacuum instruments and if your system is not protected adequately with filters, a self destructing pump can take out an instrument. The electric AI is your only fully redundant choice. Plus I think its fair to say that the backup electric AI will give you more resale value down the road than a backup vacuum AI would.

Quote: flight2000 Once converted are they still referred to as D models or did they revert to a C model? I was always curious about that. Below is a shot of my stock 67E ASI. Notice the Mooney emblem. I was at 11,000 feet when the photo was taken so you can see I'm still in the yellow arc barely. It was taken at an angle, so it looks a little weird since I cropped the original photo. I'm interested to know what changes to the airframe facilitated the increase as well.

Agreed and you just nailed one big thing you can't learn from a simulator - spatial disorientation. At least not not the simulators we typically use.

Looks like 116 KIAS/133 IAS (mph) which is within 3 kts of what I caluclated above from the MAPA data. But since you have a '70 C , its not an issue for you, nor any Mooney from '69 on since your Vno doesn't start till 175 mph - nice!

I have this one http://www.p2inc.com/audioadvisory.asp and am very happy with it. Pulling its breaker is the simple way to turn it off while doing slow flight, and stalls etc. with gear up.

Quote: flight2000

Greg, you need to find out what's on there now and then see what your options are. You can start by looking at the TCDS. An overhauled unit is cheapest, but I prefer new and preferably a model like Tempest Tornado if your using something like my 216CW, another good option is Sigma Tec and then Rapco provides new replacement and O/H pumps. Sticking to the current model, or a direct replacement pump, will eliminate having to make any plumbing changes.

Frankly its well worth it for any owner that wants to take an active role in their planes maintenance and you can save your IA some time and it will help you plan instead of being surprised. Its a big job though without the benefit of the commercial s/w that automates the search, but you should have a list from prior annuals to start with. Keep in mind though that finding ADs for the Mooney airframe and engine are the easy part, the hard part is finding is all the appliance AD's such as prop, governor, radios, AP etc, there is even an ignition switch AD. Its also suggested to include important SB's such as Mooney's infamous M20-282A no-clutch back spring for every 1000 hrs. The preferred approach is two create two lists or two worksheets as I do in one spreadsheet with one for recurring ADs and the other for one time or non-recurring ADs. This way the only the recurring ADs sheet is being updated with new compliance dates yet both will get new ADs added to them as they come out. The columns to use are in bolded are (with values in parens): Type ("Once", or the time interval (e.g. "100 hr"), or "NA"), AD No. (i put in the URL to it e.g., 85-23-07 ), Effective Date, Description, Applicability (what model or serial # a/c it applies too), either "One Time" or "Recurring" (values are NA or C/W date, or Every 500 hrs Last C/W date), and Action (description of required action and method of compliance). Many IA will sign ieach entry with the action, but that's not necessary since the IA's signature of compliance is already in the log book so just need to make sure its easy to find in the log book which contains the method and signature of compliance. I know there are some IAs here which can give some additional advice/help.

My wife who is 5' 4", found the 3" extensions essental. Still she is all the way forward and has a slightly bigger challenge scanning all the instruments IFR as compared to most of us sitting a little further back. We have fully articulating seats, but without them she also needs a seat cushion which is less of an issue. Being 6' myself, I don't like the extensions, so she has owned the left seat ever since . But what's not too like if your the only pilot in your family. But seriously, strongly suggest you find a Mooney owner within visiting range with the rudder pedal extensions you can at least sit and verify you have full rudder/braking range and you can see if your view of panel is still adequate - as I think you're proposing to do in your post and sorry I am so far away or I'd offer. One of the other challenges to consider with the seat fully forward is changing fuel tanks in the vintage models. But as long those basics pass I am sure you'll be very happy in a Mooney.