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aerobat95

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Everything posted by aerobat95

  1. Looks like the plane went in hard....not much left of the aircraft from the pictures. Possibly CFIT? I wonder if maybe they had some sort of instrument problem that led to disorientation? Really sucks either way. What was the weather like? Ceiling and vis? Do you know if they were under an IFR flight plan?
  2. Just uploaded one.....I had to reduce the size significantly....to around 100kb
  3. aerobat95

    KC-135

  4. From the album: KC-135

    Here is a pic of a KC-135 I was flying while involved in a joint operation with Bahrain F-16's.
  5. I get the same error.....not sure how to fix the problem.
  6. Sent you a email.... -Ray rlkelly2@hotmail.com
  7. I wanted to revisit this thread.....anyone with a .pdf copy of the owners manual or any of the service manuals can you please email me. rlkelly2@hotmail.com I have a '74F serial number 22-0071 Thanks Ray
  8. From what I have heard you cannot get the Lasar ones anymore
  9. Does it cover serial number 22-0071? I have a service manual and parts manual but my S/N is not listed.
  10. Hmmm.....could it be a short somewhere in the system? Maybe something wrong with the audio panel?
  11. If you think you like how they look just wait till you get to feel them......very nice!!!!!
  12. Can you put those type of seats in say a 1974F? How much does Mooney sell them new?
  13. Ok so I didnt read the full ad.....guess it comes with a rear bench too.....so maybe not so bad.....
  14. Ok so I know plane parts are expensive but seriously....10.5AMU for friggin seats???? New leather or not...... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mooney-Articulating-Seat-Set-New-Leather-Upholstery-/180982908646?hash=item2a236c06e6&item=180982908646&pt=Motors_Aviation_Parts_Gear&vxp=mtr
  15. just checked the user manual and it does have current time located on position page.
  16. Hmmmm...doesn't the 430 also display current GPS derived time?
  17. Where are you sourcing the switches? Are they used or new?
  18. Sorry to hijack this thread but here is a question regarding the 430W. If I do not want to have a digital clock taking up panel space does the timer built into the 430W count with regard to IFR requirements?
  19. I have looked really closely at the battery for the robotow and the Milwaukee line of battery and I believe they are the same. If you look at the charger it too looks exactly like the Milwaukee. I think Robotow just put their own stickers on it. The hard part is finding the 28V Milwaukee battery. I have yet to see one in any of the stores.
  20. Thanks a bunch.....now I have another web site addiction......I spent way to much time today looking up various planes on there.....
  21. What Phillips do you use?? Is it the 66 X/C 20W50? I am using Exxon Elite + Camguard......the Exxon is significantly more per quart.....am I wasting money on the Exxon??
  22. I have one for mine and love it.....kinda pricy but works as advertised.
  23. I pretty much look at all the above as well. I also look at the screws that hold the valve covers. I also like to check my EGT probes and CHT probes and the wires.
  24. So this item is required for flight but according to my POH during the preflight step 6 says Pitot tube and stall vane switch--unobstructed Seems like you would never know if the thing is operable unless you have an approach to stall condition or at annual......kinda crazy seeing as how its required for flight.
  25. Well spent some time out at the hangar today to troubleshoot some more. So I can kinda get my arm up in there (so to speak). The two screws at the leading edge that hold the thing in place have a nut on the inside of the wing (sucks). There are two screws on the switch itself. One appears to be power. The other is definately a ground that attaches to one of the screws that hold the whole assembly to the wing. There appears to be some corrosion on that nut. There are also two rivets that hold the actual switch to the plate that attaches to the wing. So later on today I am going to see if my wife can get her arm better in there. If not I think the only way to get that switch out would be to drill the two rivets out and then remove the switch. If I were to do that (with A&P supervision of course) then accessing the screws and nuts would be somewhat easier. What do you guys think?
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