takair

Last post you mentioned just using the vernier next time. Do you otherwise not use it? It is possible the ball is hanging up and not quite locking. The spring force in the governor then has the opportunity to pull it forward, at least one “detent”. Good advice to try that first. How old is the cable?

Sorry. Incomplete response. You are correct regarding ground function when taxing. What I meant is that if sitting on the ground with the engine running, but not moving, if the yoke goes hard over it could be a leak. I’ve knocked off a trim hose and it will also cause a hard over. You can compensate for that with the heading bug, but it will be offset. Kevin is probably right regarding gyro, but still worth leak checks.

Check it on the ground. If it turns then you likely have a leak. Could be the servos, lines or trim lines. Need to start leak checking. Servo would be the first place to start and most likely leak.

What everybody above said. Pucks won’t make any difference. Rigging might. Almost every transition student has issues. Most wait way too long trying to put the gear up and the speed builds. It takes a bunch of takeoffs to get it. Once the speed builds the easiest way is the dip someone mentioned. Just a LIGHT push. I’ve had people try to kill me by pushing too hard and too low. As you push the yoke you raise the gear. Easier said than done, but again requires practice. The biggest issue I see with putting gear down is managing your he momentum so there is just enough to get to the lock, but not so much that it bangs into place. More practice.

I’m not sure I fully follow, but if you have a 28v only radio you do not want operate it on 14v. At best you won’t get the rated power output, at worst it will take out some voltage regulators that are being stressed since they can’t up-convert.

Good excuse to fly after washing…although I’m not sure that is bulletproof….but still a good excuse….then spray some oil in it after landing…

I can’t answer why 15473 might be mechanically better. From an operational perspective, I first noticed the issue in starting, I seem to recall my mixture being too rich, but I am not sure that is technically possible given the fuel injection system…but that’s what I recall. If you have an engine monitor with fuel pressure, you will set off the alarm all the time. From a TC perspective, you will be outside the Mooney limits. I had notified Mooney at the time, they didn’t say much. Maybe I’m anal about limits, but it seems that going over the airframe limits is pretty clear cut, even if Lycoming says it is ok,. They don’t set the airframe limits…. If Mooney were still building airframes they might have some leverage with Lycoming or they would possibly do the analysis or testing to broaden the limits.. Vance…I know you know all of the legalities and you know the Mooney factory better than me…..I’m just kind of venting now….lol…old wounds…

Maybe this thread will be helpful.

Vance There is an older thread on the topic. One of the available pumps tends to put out over red line pressure. Lycoming says it’s ok but it is outside Money spec. I’ll see if I can find the thread.

I can tell of the times where “a friend” skipped a checklist or a flow due to distractions. “They” have forgotten gust locks, pitot covers, cones in front of plane, trim, flaps, cowl flaps, and most recently distracted from doing gumps by weather…..gear was down but not locked. Gear warning to the rescue. I think a good flow satisfies a checklist. I think the problem is always distractions. Even with a checklist there are numerous examples of doing the checklist and missing something. Interrupted by a radio call. Rote reflexes that look, but don’t see. Checklists and flows (maybe not all agree on the “flow”) are great safety enhancers. However, what would enhance safety would be a way to ensure there is always time to run them and not miss anything. I have yet to see a completely bulletproof checklist. Luckily most airplanes have some forgiveness built in. Some level of automation helps, but not all automation is bulletproof either. I know we want to believe we will say “unable” when rushed, but sometimes it’s not practical. When our routine is thrown off is when we are most susceptible. If you can sneak a checklist in at that time, it is the perfect time for it, but ironically it is exactly the checklist which is omitted in order to work around the new situation. I realize my response is not entirely helpful except to say to my friend, try not to be in a rush, build in more time for preparation, pre flights and checklists. Maybe we can make up some of the time by flying faster ROP :-). Be safe everybody!!

As I recall, you have to swing the gear with the nose gear doors open or the firewall panel removed to see the proximity of that bearing to the gear when turning. I think the flat gives just that extra amount of clearance to feel good when you see it.

And before digital cameras…lol.

It’s a good forum, we all learn. The manual is not very useful on some of these topics. Rich also caught that the link was backwards. Cliff’s issue is still a little disturbing, especially in light of the recent 310 accident in Boca.

I could have sworn I remember the shaved part as going aft and down to better clear the gear, but I can find no evidence of that at the moment.

If I’m picturing this correctly, one of those heinous (edit….meant Heim, but spell check corrected to what we are all thinking) joints should have a part of it machined flat for clearance. However, as you stated, if that alone were the issue, it would have been seen a long time ago. I would look for slop that finally hit its limit….or….be sure the rudder pedal torque tube has not cracked and partially failed. I think there are three places to look. In this case I would look where the small control arm to nose gear link is attached. I have seen this torque tube crack and break. Worst case no control, but I can picture a version where it jams. In the case I was, the gentleman was heavy set and tall and would somehow put his weight into the pedals while situating himself. Luckily they broke on the ground. I think this is a similar scenario that sometimes breaks the seat back. Under certain loads, I can see the force ending up n the joint I mention. It is very hard to inspect, but can be done…. summary….look at the torque tube where the control link attaches…be sure it’s not cracked…. Repair is a whole other discussion….

Kevin is THE man. Almost all parts can be restored or found. Most pop up on eBay. Only Pegasus is the altitude hold servos if you have that system but I’m convinced there is an answer for that. I have a bunch of spare parts I’ve accumulated, just haven’t had time to organize and post them….if Kevin can’t fix it he knows where to find me. As others have indicated the biggest investment is your time and a willing AP who will allow owner assist or hangar else with the right attitude.

Never thought to check there….sure enough….https://www.mcmaster.com/products/barrel-nuts/dowel-nuts-2~/

…..also…have you ever noticed….when there is an audience….you yell “CLEAR” very loud so that everybody knows you read the AIM. However, yelling “clear” too loud can scare the engine into having performance anxiety and leads to that awkward silence at the end of a few turns of the prop. You will notice that with each subsequent attempt, you say “clear” more quietly until the engine finally determines that all conditions for it to run are met.

It’s interesting how many variations there are to start techniques. I will say mine has evolved over the years and the equipment installed. In its latest and most reliable iteration for my configuration (SureFly mag), I have been using the same technique hot, warm, and cold (gasp). Throttle about 1/4” open, pump on, mixture rich of slow count to 5, mixture closed, starter until it catches, mixture rich assuming solid catch, RPm to 1000. Occasionally on a warm start it will have to try twice. Warm start always seems to be the odd man out. I suspect this consistent starting as attributed to the SureFly and starting rich. Your mileage may and likely will vary. Some choice language may or may not help too….

OP is right, crazy expensive. I’ve made my own as well. I’m surprised nobody has these as a PMA part….hmmm?

It was earlier mentioned about adding matched recess for the other controls and then screening it. That’s a good idea. Another, less elegant, would be to cut a thin overlay that goes across all three. Pick up the existing hardware to hold it and maybe some 3m double sided tape. Recess the throttle as required. Have it painted a nice contrasting paint, and silkscreen or laser engrave. You can have them outline the edges. Local trophy shop can do it for next to nothing. It could look quite nice and intentional. Before the advent of quick CNC cut panels we had to do this kind of stuff a lot when doing avionics mods. Many of the factory overlays were done to hide tooling holes or hardware. I know it’s not the question here but perhaps it helps resolve the issue.

That’s very interesting. That my just work. Would need to see the install manual or pin out to be sure.

Was curious if oil pressure was fluctuating when the RPM varies. That might indicate air….but usually the RPM would tend to go high. Regarding MAP, unrelated to the oil pressure, was wondering if that might surge with the RPM shift. In the plot, both seem to be going down? What do these look like over your original plots? Were you reducing power? Is red oil pressure? Wonder why that is drifting down?

Do you have a plot of MP and oil pressure? May or may not present some hints.

Cliff, if I understand correctly it will do LPV approaches if one has a navigator, correct? Is it also true that it will not do an ILS approach?