N201MKTurbo

Two things If the water settles to the bottom of the sump, it will be sucked up by the oil pump and emulsified as soon as the engine is started. Taping the oil cooler seems like a bad idea. The vernatherm should regulate the oil temperature. Cold weather is not the problem, hot weather where full flow through the cooler is not good enough is the problem. No matter what your oil temp is, the best thing you can do to keep your engine from rusting is to fly it regularly.

When a mechanical tach needs lubrication of the input bearing, it will stick. When it sticks the cable will wind up until there is enough force to overcome the friction the input shaft will spin causing the needle to jump. The bottom line is it is time to get an electronic tach. Trying to fix the mechanical tach is a waste of money. For the same money you can get an electronic tach that will work perfect forever.

I just put two screws with finish washers in the back of the copilot carpet. Cost $0.

The down limit switch should be adjusted so the over-center preload springs are 1/2 compressed. All four springs should be compressed equally. If any of the springs are fully compressed the motor will be trying to bend your plane.

For the money you are spending you could buy a spare dukes to carry back in the hat rack.

There is an AD that requires a screen downstream from the pump to catch the veins if they leave the pump. Your plane should already have this screen. My F and J both had it. What makes you think the Weldon pumps won't eventually come apart?

On my 77 J there are two fuses just behind the panel light control knob. you may have to remove your access panels to get to them, if it is the same arrangement. The fuses are under two grey conical screw on caps.

Actually there is a common disconnect relay for the electric trim and the autopilot disconnect.

What do you have against the dukes pump? I have been running them for 30 years. They seem pretty reliable. I've overhauled a few. But they have all lasted well over a thousand hours. Nothing to make me want to spend thousands of dollars to get rid of it. BTW the difference between the fuel injection pump and the pump for the carbureted engine is just the setting of the internal pressure regulator. The spring is different.

When I spoke about the gaskets I was referring to the rajay turbo used on the 231 which is the same turbo used on my conversion. I have never worked on a Bravo.

Remove the screw. Get a new screw. Use a #30 drill bit to clean out the existing sealant from the bottom of the screw hole. Just spin the bit between your thumb and forefinger do not use a air or electric drill motor. Use a flashlight to look into the hole you should see fairly clean plastic in the bottom of the hole. Get as much old sealant from the threads as you can. You can run a fresh screw into the hole a couple of times to clean the threads. Clean all the sealant from the countersink. You can use the bit from a micro adjustable countersink in your fingers to clean up the countersink. Mix up some sealant and thin it with MEK until it is brushable. Use an acid brush to paint the countersink of the plane and the countersink and threads of the screw with sealant. Screw it in. Wait a day and then clean the extruded sealant with your fingernail. When removing the screw try not to push down too hard. You could break the sealant bond between the panel and the wing.

Out here in the west decending while IFR is usually not an option. The MEAs are usually quite high. I always climb to tru to get out of ice. If that doesn't work I turn around because i know there was no ice back there. Just don't wait to long to make that decision and be mindfull of the wind.

If you want to troubleshoot the motor, there are 4 wires two are the clutch the other two are the motor. The clutch should energize whenever the yoke switch is off center. The motor will change polarity depending on which way you push the switch.

So who here has opened their storm window above 150 MPH?

Icing forms faster on smaller radius objects, so the Mooney wing will build up ice faster then a Cessna wing. My personal opinion is that if a Cessna and a Mooney were flying in formation in icing conditions the Cessna would fall out of the sky first.

The ice pictures above was caused by large super cooled water droplets. My ice experience is almost exclusively over the rocky mountains where the moisture content is usually much lower. Most of the time you get small droplet icing which tends to build up as a smooth coating and does not build up the structure ahead of the wing illustrated above. The pictures above are scary.....

Airplane magazines....

I would be more concerned that your circuit breaker didn't blow. It seems that there is a high impedance somewhere in your electrical system. Do you have a volt meter in the plane? Does it drop when you switch on the landing light?

My lawyer says that nothing you say on a public forum can be used against you in court. But it may get the attention of the powers that be to find some evidence they can use in court.

When I was younger and the laws were more lax I would routinely fly in icing conditions until I got ice. That was the law back then. It wasn't known icing until you found it or somebody made a pilot report about it on the same route and altitude you were at. I never got iced up enough to cause a handling problem. I did land a few times looking out the storm window because the windshield was iced over. The defroster doesn't do much. If you are lucky it will clear a 1/2 inch strip of the windshield. I have had about an inch of rime and the plane flew just fine. I never got the horn formation always just a smooth buildup. If you can get into the sunshine the ice will sublimate. Depending on the temperature and humidity it will go faster or slower, but I seem to remember it would lose about 1/2 inch an hour. I was once flying in Wyoming on an IFR flight plan in clear air at 9000 feet OAT was -5C. There was a small very black cloud in front of me. I thought I would see how much ice there was in it. I was in that cloud for about 20 seconds and picked up over an inch if ice. It changed my attitude about icing. When you decend into warmer air, sometimes all the ice will shed from one wing and not the other. This will cause a bit of a sudden rolling moment, but nothing that you cannot deal with.

I know from personal experance that you need to close the ram air door if you are in the clouds. Everything you have been taught about fuel injection not icing up is wrong. The RSA-5 will get leaner and leaner until the engine quits when it gets iced up. BTW it thawed out before I got to the ground. It is very unnerving having a dead engine in the clouds. Be vary carefull flying into icing conditions with a big tail wind. By the time you decide you have too much ice and it is time to turn around, you will be flying in the icing much longer on the way out.

The gaskets are $7.00. Why are you replacing the clamps are they broken?

It is a pretty rare day that you couldn't make that trip VFR, but that is not what you are asking. First thing to know is Phoenix approach is here for the airlines, GA flying IFR is just a nuisance to them. They are the worst on the planet. One time it was actually IFR and I needed to fly home from 57AZ (near Tucson) and for over an hour Tucson approach told me that "Phoenix is not accepting any arrivals"!!!! I finally flew home VFR in 4 miles of visibility I could barely see the ground straight down. I knew it was 4 miles because the distance between when I could see a mountain peak and when I was abeam the same mountain was 4 miles on the GPS. I flew the same route every day so I knew I wasn't going to hit the mountains. Anyway... I would just tell them that you couldn't accept that routing because of icing forecasts and that you do not have deicing equipment. They don't know any better because as I said before they are only there for the airlines and they all have de-icing.

It is probably the disconnect relay. It is mounted on the firewall just to the right of the vacuum manifold. With the engine off, push the trim button and listen for the relay to click. If the relay clicks then it is not your switch. The fact that you have two switches pretty much eliminates the switches. If a switch went bad the other one would work. Try engaging the trim switch and wiggling the connector to the disconnect relay to see if it starts running. My electric trim has been intermittent ever sense I've had the plane. Iy has always been the relay or the connectors at the relay.

Dale's airplane is a 252. It doesn't have a Hartzell prop. There are no zerk fittings on his prop.