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Everything posted by MARZ
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I'll be in the Vintage camping area - hope to be there bright and early.... Can't wait.
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OK so now I'm confused - my method and reasoning Cold (hasn't run for the day) Turn on the pump with mixture full lean and wait for pressure Full rich mixture for as long as it takes to push it in and pull it back out to full lean pump off start cranking and sloooowly enrichen - three blade start I am under the impresssion that nothing gets to the cylinder till it comes off of full lean - have I just been lucky? Hot Exactly what has been posted - 1000 rpm shut down - no touchie anything - crank and start.
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Quote: davbert I'm upgrading my avionics package and want to include an audio panel upgrade from my KMA20. I'd like stereo 4 place intercom with an input for my 496 XM radio or from an iPod. I'm agnostic on Garmin or PS Engineering. I'd like some feedback on your installations, reliability, human interface and product support. Anyone interested in a used KMA20?
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Distractions and loss of focus in the cockpit
MARZ replied to scottfromiowa's topic in Miscellaneous Aviation Talk
Kudos Scott... one of the main reasons I frequent this board - to pick up all the pearls I can find. -
If that is coming from the right side chances are that it goes to the original aviionic cooling - basically a vent mounted on the center of the firewall that blows air against the back of the stack. Don't know what you drive but that's my guess based on my 67F
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Quote: ThreeStripedZ Thank you very much for those threads. I will check my blocks tomorrow or Wednesday - and if even remotely necessary call LASAR for a new part. Do they still the jacking pads, too? If you are asking about the tie down / jack point kit - yes they do. I just put a set on my plane. $35 + 15 shipping.
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67 F top vent control replace / repair
MARZ replied to MARZ's topic in Vintage Mooneys (pre-J models)
Finally rolled up my sleeves and attacked the vent cable - some pointers for those that want to undertake the task. Rotary Vents - They are held to the ceiling with a stud off the knob - don't try to take it off before you remove the plate it attaches to. There are two plates that are screwed to the roof plenum - you won't see them until you remove the duct tape. Remove both vent plates (2) - there are 12 little screws around the edge of the plate on the right and 12 little screws and the vent door control to remove on the left. Cable - I found a suitable cable inner from Lowes - actually a throttle cable for a lawn mower. The cable attaches to the vent door with a clevis and to the control by slipping the coiled end over the control arm. The easy (relative term here) way to install the inner cable is to remove the clevis on the vent door, remove the pin from the vent door hinge and remove the door itself. Pull the cable from the cable housing, and remove the broken end from the control end. Cut the new cable end off straight, lube the cable and insert from the door end, feed as much as possible into the cabin. To make the coil end on the cable - bend approximately 1/2 inch of the end to a 90 degree, you will vice grip this end to a 3/16 drill bit so the tab is aligned longitudinally to the bit. Once secure make three tight coils around the bit, release the vice grips and cut off the 90 degree tab. The coiled end slips over a post on the control arm. Once in place put the left vent assembly together temporarily and operate the control noting the movement of the cable. Retract (close) the cable and put a mark at the point that the inner cable meets the outer housing at the vent door. Now extend (open) the cable to give you room to make a coil on that end. The beginning of the door end cable coil should start approximately 1/8" beyond the mark you have made. For this coil you will need a smaller drill bit (to match the clevis pin) and initially clamp the cable perpendicular to the bit. I found this method to be a bit more challenging than the other but it gives the control over the required length of the cable. Reinstall the vent door and attach the cable and test. Don't forget to paint the Royalite vents while they are apart!!! Put everything back together - put bandaids on the cuts on you fingers, and your done!! Time invested - 6 hours Weight lost sweating in 98 degree heat 3 lbs Parts - $8.79 Ability to control my vent door again - priceless -
Quote: jlunseth So when the hard drive crashes or you drop the iPad and break it, what then? I do alot of work with computers and retaining and producing information from computers and PDA's. There are two rules. One. It is very hard to lose or get rid of data that you would just as soon not have around. Two. It is very hard to store and keep data that you really want to have around and accessible for a long period of time (like a flight logbook). Think of all computer memory as volatile, not permanent, because it really is. All my permanent logs are paper, and I have copies. Would not ever put one on a computer. Been through too many computer crashes.
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Pulled from my 67 F - Make an offer.
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Vincent - I found the fastners at Aircraft Spruce - LINK
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BUMP - anybody? anybody? is this thing on???
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Long trips I bring it up to 6 - 6.5 and I'll drop a quart in 8 - 10 hours - practicing in the pattern it usually wants to stay at 5 anything more gets blown out within an hour.
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I know that it's been covered generally - but I am wondering if anyone in the Texas area can give some input on the performance of the unit in and around central Texas. The ADS-B coverage map is somewhat empty for the Houston to Oshkosh route which would be my immediate use. Basically buying it for the weather capability - but the GPS is an added bonus I'm looking to purchase one but would like a better warm and fuzzy before I plunk down close to 1 amu.
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My F is 1718 - I don't have the PC - just ditched the ADF I've got a 430 and KX155 for Radios.
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Nu-Lites: Anyone install yet?
MARZ replied to scottfromiowa's topic in Vintage Mooneys (pre-J models)
Actually kicking out the top of the panel with spacers on the shock mounts should do the trick. It will help with the AI a bit as well. -
And the survey sez......... bad connection !!! Restripped the wire reattached and tada..... it works great... I can sleep well tonight.
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"You don't have an issue because the EGT isn't required" Agreed - The STC actually does allow for primary secondary new or replacement.
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Ram Air Rubber Duct Between Engine and Lower Cowl
MARZ replied to crxcte's topic in Vintage Mooneys (pre-J models)
Ya gotta love google... found this in January's issue at mooneypilots LINK 1965 M20E Parts New-1 by-pass intake boot #1Q03-600115-005, 2 bottom cowl braces. Used 1 Dukes pressure switch for electric gear and micro switch.all for $125.00 Howard Chorsky 352-375-1832 email hac51fmc@cox.net -
Nu-Lites: Anyone install yet?
MARZ replied to scottfromiowa's topic in Vintage Mooneys (pre-J models)
Quote: scottfromiowa Good idea...(washers). I will bounce this off the installer. Thanks for the suggestion. Scott -
Quote: carusoam Mike, [1] Assume: All EGTs should be running over 1,000 F even if the holes are very far down the exhaust tubes. [2] Mounting: The probes are usually simple thermocouples mounted through the exhaust tube, in a small drilled hole. It is not possible for the original hole to be so different to cause such a variation of temperature. [3] Check the obvious: check for any accidental shorting, broken insulation or broken wire. [4] The test: Can you swap adjacent probes / locations for cylinders 1 and 3 to see if the weird reading goes with the probe? [5] Follow-up: If your EGT is really that low, then there is no spark or no fuel going to that cyllinder. [6] As JL points out below, the original EGT may still be mounted in its original spot. It would take an STC for replacement. This makes you ask what is the new thermocouple connected to? Best regards, -a-
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Nu-Lites: Anyone install yet?
MARZ replied to scottfromiowa's topic in Vintage Mooneys (pre-J models)
Quote: scottfromiowa Yes (Maropers), I will hopefully replace someday with an HSI that's shorter? It will be fine. I looked at your panel. Looks good! The 430 will be N.I.C.E.! Auto-pilot? -
Nu-Lites: Anyone install yet?
MARZ replied to scottfromiowa's topic in Vintage Mooneys (pre-J models)
Quote: scottfromiowa My panel was just off (vertical separation) -
Quote: Shadrach Are you using all new thermocouples (probes) or reusing an old one? What kind of unit. Did you trim the wire length? In some units the gauge will only work with a thermocouple of a specific resistance (ohm rating) and specific length wires.
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Significant other that will not fly?
MARZ replied to smitty9006's topic in Miscellaneous Aviation Talk
My wife to be is fully supportive - but is anxious (read nervous) to fly - we've been taking flights one at a time First was in a trainer prior to my ppl, the constant chatter back and forth between me and the CFI was a bit unnerving to her, but she hung in there. The second was after my ppl and dual time requirement in the Mooney, we did some local flying and I told her that no matter if we were in the air for less than 5 minutes and she wanted to land to tell me - she did and I did - that gave her some confidence. The third was for a hundred dollar hamburger - the flight out was great - the return was a bit bouncy and hot. There were a few short jumps from there - but the longest we did was from Houston to Gulf Shores to visit my folks - this is the flight that sealed the deal!! Other than some low ceilings around Houston both out and back we enjoyed severe clear all along the coast line. Now she is always asking when the next flight is and wants to plan to the Bahamas