jbreda

The best results are with the factory seals with the foam filler. The Aircraft Doors Seals product fits poorly, and does not have enough capability to take up space as needed. I had poor luck with them.

Do not bother to overhaul. Put in a new Weldon pump per the Mooney retrofit kit number. Better pump and it is new. John Breda

There is a great electronics parts store near me. It is called You Do It Electronics, Needha, Massachusetts. They have a large selection of parts and can order many more. You might try them. If not, it may be time to replace the circuit with new stuff. John Breda

If you would like to replace them with the original non-overlapping nose gear doors, I have a nice set that I could sell for less than the overlapping version. johnabreda@yahoo.com Thanks John Breda

There are lots of other parts needed to do the smooth belly conversion. This job is not trivial, and the cost of the remaining parts could easily eat up another $500-$1000. This is to say nothing about piecing together the plans on what to change and how. There is work to be done all the way around the opening, and some of the original intercostal are removed. A person who is trying to do this should understand what they are in for. A much more reliable approach is to purchase LASAR's or one of the other STC'd products, not so much for the STC, but for the other parts and instructions. John Breda

I think you want to stay with a vacuum AH as backup. The electrics do not respond as quickly in righting themselves should there be an unusual attitude. You should get a vacuum AH with an off flag so you will know its functionality at a glance.

For those of you who have an E or F wih the original cowling/air box configuration - I have a completely rebuilt Rayjay turbo normalizer system that needs a home. With that configuration, it is about a forty hour install. I have all the documentation including 2 STC's, one to install the turbo normalizer system onto an IO-360 and another to put the turbo normalized engine into the E ot F airframe. I have all referenced drawings, install manual, FAA POH letter. Can be installed via STC with a logbook entry and 337 per STC. Exhaust is new, rebuilt 1 gauge heavier stainless steel than the original. I have all major parts. Price wouldbe 1/2 of the M-30 kit and install less as well as the parts fit. It is the same set of major components as the M-20 system without the intercooler, pop-off valve and with a manual wastegate instead of fixed wastegate. Pictured below are the major parts of the turbo system. I also have a second set of pipes for someone who has the system already and needs a new set of pipes due to the age of their system. I can be reached at (617) 877-0025 or e-mail johnabreda@yahoo.com Thanks.

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Your J fits most mission profiles, and I agree that you would be spending alot in a 252 for speed on an occasional flight. If you want turbo capability and climb capability, add a turbo normaizer to your J. I have a rebuilt RayJay system you could install on an IO-360 (originally designed for the E or F) but could be used on the J with DER approval. It is essentially the same system as the M20 turbo system without the intercooler, and with manual wastgate. The system could be put on for less than 1/2 the cost of the M20 system. You can e-mail me at johnabreda@yahoo.com or call me at 617-877-0025. Thanks.

I am finishing up my avionics install and have some Nu-Lite rings left over. I am not sure how many I have but I can check. They are standard instrument size. If interested please contact me at johnabreda@yahoo.com Thanks. John Breda

Time is money and add travel on top of that. It is easier to find a structurally good airframe and engine and then go from there. You can start with the best you can find, but you will never find the perfect specimen. Aircraft are not like people, they can be altered and modified.

I would like to see this as well. Especially with the factory closed, parts will become harder to find and a site where owners can post parts and equipment available for sale and others can post their needs will be helpful. John Breda

Take it apart and have it powder coated. You can get a color like you want in powder coating. John Breda

There is nothing wrong with upgrading the F. I would do the major J model mods if you can. I can recommend the guys in San Marcos from personal experience. My plane is at McKee's now. Erik there is top notch and very helpful. Russell at SWTA aviation is also extremely knowledgeable and helpful. I turned my F into a modern aircraft (there is 1 gallery pic posted). It was a long involved project for a number of reasons. If you would like the benefit of some of my experiences feel free to PM me. John Breda

Guys: LP Aero Plastics sells the 201 windshield. In fact, they even sold the STC for the 1/4" thick version. That was sold for Mod Works so it may not be an option anymore now that Mods Works is no longer. I think LASAR still sells the STC but they may have difficulty getting cowl decks (which is a factory part for their STC). I have a 201 cowl deck that could be used if anyone is interested in it. In any case, there is plenty of data out there for this conversion which a DER use to approve modifications for a single installation. You can e-mail me at johnabreda@yahoo.com if you would like more information. John

Why could you not use the 201 windshield from LP Aero Plastics? John Breda

I gave aircraft door seals a try (in fact gave them 2 tries) and found that the seals were impossible to use. The spaces between the door and door frame vary (such as the lower door area is curved to match the outside skin, but the door frame is straight). The best door seal is the factory seal with the foam inside the seal. I think the Mooney Service Centers would also agree. John Breda

I am now on the tail end of my F model rebuilding and am cleaning out my hangar. Since this project has taken so long, we have gone through several generations of avionics and panel designs. I thus have several panels that someone might be able to use. Our panels are made to be installed with an instrument panel bow (like the new aircraft). There are version of the pilot's panel, center panel, and a fuse panel. They were water cut. There is an angles box made to mount the JPI 930 at an angle (shown) which we are no longer using. I have posted the panel we are now using, powder coated and sik-screened. It will be the home of a Garmin 600, 750, 650, 330, WX-500, TCAS, GDL-69, Stec 60-2, JPI 930 and other stuff. I have a bunch of other stuff, feel free to ask. John Breda

Selling off equipment that I will not be using in my F model rebuild. Please e-mail me at johnabreda@yahoo.com if interested. Garmin 530WAAS and 430WAAS units - 530W had been installed for less than a month, 430W has never been installed, both have been upgraded to WAAS by Garmin - which essentially means it is a new unit since they replace 80% of the electronics, processor and all to do the upgrade. Both have not been installed since the upgrade and have all paperwork, connectors, WAAS antenna - as shipped from Garmin. They are at McKee Avionics who will warranty the units for one year. Garmin 347 audio panel - new as purchased from a Garmin dealer - never installed S-TEC GPSS ST-901 unit - new, never installed Garmin GPS antennas - GA-56 - I have two of these - one new one used Pair of Comant CI-196 antennas - taken off an Ovation with 400 hours - excellent condition Sandia air data computer SAC 7-35 - new in sealed box from Sandia King ADF KR-87 - yellow tagged King ADF KR-87 - repaired, yellow tagged, new display and other parts KI-227 - ADF indicator - this is the -01 version which is slaved Stall warning switches from F model (will fit other vintage Mooneys) Original Mooney headress from 1968 M20F - blue color Hydraulic flap pump - HE625 - rebuilt by LASAR - I have two United Vertical Speed Instrument Ray Jay Turbo Normalizer system for E or F model - completely rebuilt with all STC's, install manuals, drawings and POH letter Extra rebuilt exhaust pipe set for RayJay Turbo Normalizer system (for E or F model) 50 amp Interav alternator along with voltage regulator and overvotlage regulator Fuel shut-off valve from Mooney Ovation Fuel sump from Mooney Ovation Control cables from Mooney Ovation (Prop, throttle and mixture) - vernier type Cowl cheeks (left and right) from vintage Mooney (came off F model) Original F model Top cowling Baggage door from Mooney F model Scott Zodiac 115 ft composite oxygen cylinder Scott Aviation oxygen cylinder brackets for installing the 115 ft Oxygen cylinder John Breda

There are 2 sets of gear springs - one set in the wheel wells (1 per side) and 1 set in the belly. You should not replace these with used parts. LASAR has both of these springs new. John Breda

Selling off equipment that I will not be using in my F model rebuild. Please e-mail me at johnabreda@yahoo.com if interested. Garmin 530WAAS and 430WAAS units - Both had 1 month of use before WAAS upgrade by Garmin - which essentially means it is a new unit since they replace the guts, processor and all to do the upgrade. Both have not been installed since the upgrade. Pair of Comant CI-196 antennas - taken off an Ovation with 400 hours - excellent condition Instantaneous Vertical Speed Instrument - recalibrated and yellow tagged Sandia air data computer SAC 7-35 - new in sealed box from Sandia King ADF KR-87 - yellow tagged King ADF KR-87 - repaired, yellow tagged, new display and other parts KI-227 - ADF indicator - this is the -01 version which is slaved Stall warning switches from F model (will fit other vintage Mooneys) United Vertical Speed Instrument Overhauled flap hydraulic pumps (I have 2 extra) Ray Jay Turbo Normalizer system for E or F model - completely rebuilt with all STC's, install manuals, drawings and POH letter Extra rebuilt exhaust pipe set for RayJay Turbo Normalizer system (for E or F model) 50 amp Interav alternator along with voltage regulator and overvotlage regulator Fuel shut-oo valve from Mooney Ovation Fuel sump from Mooney Ovation Control cables from Mooney Ovation (Prop, throttle and mixture) - vernier type Cowl cheeks (left and right) from vintage Mooney (came off F model) Original F model Top cowling Baggage door from Mooney F model John Breda

I am going to relate my experience for what it is worth. I got my PPL in the usual array of Cessnas at about 40 hrs. I then met a man who owned a Grumman Tiger and started on my IFR training at about 50 hrs. Most of my time from 50 to about 130 hrs were done as dual time with CFII in actual conditions. I mention this for 2 reasons 1) the Grumman is a floater like the Mooney but is not complex, so you will learn speed control and learn how to bleed speed off with landing in an airplane that does not sink like a rock, without being a complex aircraft 2) you are on the west coast and perhaps have opportunities for actual IFR training. I like the idea of starting off on training for your IFR license soon after obtaining PPL. John Breda

I would not attempt this. The one piece belly mod is quite involved and you will need additional parts. You will waste more time and energy by trying to save a few bucks, as opposed to purchasing the STC from SWTA, LASAR or Bill Wheat. I originally bought a used belly pan as you are considering, resold it and bought the LASAR STC. My 2 cents to save you your 2 dollars.

I did my IFR training almost immediately after getting my private license. I started at about 50 hrs and built time, dual training from 50 to the required 125 hrs in actual conditions in Oregon. Every weekend we went out for an hour or two and filed IFR in the middle of the cloud layer, below the freezing line. It was certainly a worthwhile experience. Now when I need to do IFR currency checks and use a hood with an instructor, I can not see how someone can become proficient flying IFR under the hood on a clear day. There is no substitute for actual conditions. Try to get as much of that as you can with your instructor. That is my 2 cents of advice for IFR training. John Breda

I saw your post and wondered what you found as the reason why the Johnson Bar was difficult to get to the floor (last part of gear retratction). I have a completely rebuilt 68 F and we hae a similar problem. The main gear retraction springs were replaced as were the large springs in the belly. The belly springs are fully relaxed when the gear is fully retracted which may not be correct. Please let me know what you found in your situation as it may give me some clues of where to look next. John Breda