DaV8or

Hi all, I just sold my Mooney after 12 years of ownership. It's been a great experience with no regrets. I'm just posting this to give a big shout out to Jimmy Garrison at Gmax American Aircraft. (Formerly All American Aircraft) Jimmy was super easy to work with and arranged everything including the ferry pilot to get my plane to Texas and there was no money out of pocket. All expenses are deducted from the sale. He does charge a 6-7% commission, but it is worth every penny IMO because he sold my plane fast! He also got more for my plane than I ever thought I could get myself in the usual classifieds totally making up for his commission. In addition, the work that needed to be done to satisfy the buyer was all done in Texas where shop rates are cheaper than California, so my expenses were kept low. Anyhow, I can't say enough good things about the sale, so if you have a decent Mooney that you want to sell, I highly recommend you call him. Here's what I sold, the last 1966 M20F known to still exist pretending to be a 201. One of 4 built. I have some Mooney related things to sell and or get rid of, but I'll start separate threads for those.

That's kind of my thinking. Whatever it is, it's not good.

Thanks posting that. I looked through all the illustrations and what I have doesn't exactly look like any of them. However, when I run a very fine pick over the area, I can feel it hang up. I guess I can try hitting it with some Scotchbrite and see what happens. I have nothing to lose.

Has anyone changed their wheel bearing cups? One of my nose wheel bearing cups appears to have a crack in it. It needs to be changed. I have Cleveland wheels.

The nut on this one has "AN" stamped on one flat, "TF" stamped on another and "D" stamped on a third. No -6.

Thanks for the info. However I checked my fitting again and I was mistaken, the nut takes a 13/16 wrench, not 11/16. I guess this one is bigger then?

This is the older style. The pump has flat faces and the nuts on the fittings have the counterbore to fit the leather ring. Is there somewhere to buy new leather rings and rubber O-rings?

Interesting. It does have 11/16 nuts on it. There is a recess cut in the nut as well the threads. The two rings in the picture are locked into the recess in the threads. Have you ever seen this two ring composite before? Is possible that it should just be a single rubber O-ring as you are maybe suggesting? I'm wondering if these rings and the fittings came with the Weldon pump as part of the replacement kit for the Dukes pump?

Does anyone know where to buy these O-rings? These fittings go on the electric boost pump. I have the Weldon pump. It's a two part ring seal with an outer leather, or fiber looking ring and an inner rubber ring. Thanks for the help.

Thanks! I will order this from Spruce and just get it over with. Perfect. I also now know it something to check at oil changes.

Do you have something better to suggest?

Yes. Now that I'm aware of the issue, I'll be watching. If it fails, I'll do something else. It took nearly ten years or more to get to the point it did, so I'm not super worried. If the nylon fails, I'll find something better.

I ended up using nylon spiral wrap to protect the new line. This stuff- I also gave the SCAT a bit of a squeeze to flatten it a bit and relieve some pressure as others suggested here. However to make it no contact I would pretty much have to stomp it flat. Bad design IMO. Sorry that these images are sideways. For some reason the forum software wants to take my portrait pictures and make them landscape. I don't know how to fix it. Here is how it looks and also my old tube-

Mine was worse than that. I don't know how many hours it would have been until failure, but not many. You are correct in that it's not technically pressurized, but I suppose it does have some pressure behind it just from crankcase pressure. I really have no idea how bad the leak would have been. I guess Mike's above wasn't that bad, just annoying.

OK, I will wrap the oil drain line and maybe squeeze the tube, but it'll take a lot of squeezing. I was mistaken about the cold air source and hadn't thought about muffler cooling. Thanks for the help! Question answered.

I have the SWTA 201 style cowling. I recently discovered after owning this plane for almost 10 years that the SCAT hose in this cowling that connects fresh, cold air from the left inlet to the muffler shroud for hot air, has been rubbing against the #2 cylinder oil drain tube and almost caused the tube to fail and leak oil. The steel wire in the SCAT hose chaffed and nearly wore a hole in the aluminum tube. This was missed in the last 9 annuals at least and I have been involved in most of them. I have since replaced the drain tube, but my question is- how important is this SCAT tube? The way SWTA made the cowling (it may be patterned after the real 201) the SCAT hose interferes with the drain line no matter what you do. It's just a bad design I guess. Rather than go though all kinds of conniptions to make the two tubes safe, perhaps KISS and skip the SCAT tube. It doesn't seem like this tube is really needed. Is there any detriment that anyone can think of for just leaving it off? All it does is, route fresh air from the inlet to the muffler for heating. I thought well, maybe it's to keep the air fresh and not full of engine stink, but then the cold air inlet for cabin air is right down in there in the lower cowling amongst the stink on the right side. So this can't be the case. I have since flown with the tube off and the heater blows like hell and heats just fine. I can't tell the difference. The only thing I'm not sure about is the increased flow of cold air to the lower cowling due to an open hole. I didn't notice anything out of order on the test flight. What do you think?

Well, in most older folks minds here in America, there are two Europes. The one we grew up with and the one after the fall of the Berlin Wall. They are very different sizes. I'm still getting used to the idea of Ukraine being part of Europe.

I think it may also be a lot of pilots insist on flying direct because they think they can rather than routing around something to be safe. I'm not saying this is the case here, but perhaps he thought he could out climb the mountain.

Which one? I checked out what they have, but which one do you use? It looks like they don't have clear, so those of us that don't have white planes might SOL I guess.

The key is wheel chocking as you can see he did. Also only lifting the minimum needed to get the job done. I personally wouldn't be comfortable with JC's method because I don't trust cheap Chinese hydraulics at all. They are crap even when brand new and do often leak slowly. That's why once I get the lift done, I replace the jack with stands, or I lock the ram with a locking ring.

Well, it doesn't work because it's such a PITA that all the MSCs I've taken it to haven't bothered with it and when I mentioned it, they all say- "Don't bother. It's a lot of work and nothing is ever in there, but we can do it if you really want us to." I checked my logs for the engine since it was last rebuilt, which goes back before I owned it and no shop has ever logged checking this screen. Maybe it was done and they didn't log it? Either way, I don't think shops are making much money off this thing.

You know, the more I work on my Mooney, the more I realize how much somebody has to invent a quick release engine mount system! It is painfully (literally) obvious that Al Mooney loved efficiency, but hated mechanics.

Has anybody come across a Mooney where you just couldn't get the screen all the way out?

As promised, here are the additional pictures of my oil change rig with further improvements- Wind proof drain to the bucket- Screen to drain the filter at the same time prior to cutting- The rig ready for storage-

It's no big deal. I was just curious. My phone says I took the pictures on New Years eve 2011, so I'm guessing I posted it around then. I think I have reposted the pictures here since then at least once as well.