Awful_Charlie

EGT is *very* dependent on how far the probe is from the valve, so unless the probes are exactly the same distance, with the tip in the hot part of the flow (more difficult) then even in the case that the cylinders are exactly the same, then you will get a difference in the recorded/displayed values. The actual number of the EGT is useless, is is the difference from a known number that is useful

They must have seen you coming! in 2013 I paid £2075 (about $3100 at today's exchange) for a new cylinder, rubber bands (mine were a bit sorry) and a regulator test/inspection (reseal), all with 8130 and EASA Form 1 - that was with Zodiac Aerospace in the UK

With 100+ gallons of gas, you're not going to get 500lbs+ of pax in there, let alone any baggage, to say nothing of having four of you in a relatively confined space for over 5 hours. I trade speed for fuel burn, and get 170-180 KTAS at 13-14GPH in the high teens, if you go up higher you will be looking at masks rather than cannulas so your oxygen usage is going to rise to the point you might need to fill up that before you return - not necessarily a big thing, but potentially a PITA. It irks me to say it, but a TN Bo with tip tanks might be the thing to look at

I'm another Bravo driver (so similar weights and speeds to an Ov, less power, but less affected by altitude), without Don's experience and currency, and based at a 3000' field 800' AMSL. Getting in is easy - under normal conditions I could easily make do with 1500', Getting out at max gross and ISA+15 is not a problem with 3000', but there's not a great deal of excess. 200lbs under gross makes a big difference, and I'd be checking the POH thoroughly - with an Ov3 and the extra power you might be fine, but I think it's worth getting your hands on a POH and working it through.

The Lycoming exhaust is a bit of a weak point unfortunately - take it to a knowledgeable aviation welder and get the crack area welded and reinforced with gussets. IIRC it is where the #1 header joins to the #3 and #5pipe, and where #2 joins to the crossflow and to #4 joints are the worst

When I put my JPI in, I deliberately put the OAT sensor downstream of the airfilter - that way it would record the change in temperature when the alternate door opened. As it's a turbo, I also have the CDT (temperature out of the turbo) and IAT (temperature after the intercooler), and also have the ship gauge and Aspen for OAT. I discovered that on the Bravo, opening the alternate air in the cruise made no difference to the OAT on the JPI. However, the one time I have had the alternate door open automatically, then the JPI measured OAT did rise a good few degrees. I put this down to the NACA duct on the cowl having a high capacity, so opening the alternate air when in the cruise just runs air through the filter into the void between the engine and the firewall as well as feeding the engine.

It is exactly that sort of thing that makes me plan to change tanks when within easy gliding range of an airport, particularly before I do a water/mountain crossing - having changed I'm sticking with that tank until I get in gliding range the other side! I'm moderately terrified of changing tanks and having the knob come off in my hand! Never had it happen yet, but a little forward thinking will hopefully prevent an incident becoming a crisis

I had one of those in a previous aircraft. I managed to find some software, and spent a little time trying to get it to work on an old WinCE device I found in the cupboard without success. I got a bit further with an ancient Laptop from the same place and an incarnation of windows (can't remember, probably XP), but in the end, ditched the GEM and went JPI (with USB) If you want to try yourself, I can probably find the software! Schoenes gluck! Ben

Retaining FIKI would be essential to me too. I'd also like to know if the diameter is the same, or preferably reduced for a bit more ground clearance, less weight on the nose would be a bonus, and performance in take-off, climb and cruise would be an incentive. I've only had one o/h on my prop so far, and it will be getting a re-seal/IRAN in the the coming year if I can get away with it. However, noise limits are a hot topic at my local field and the MT option is looking quite attractive, so I have that pencilled in for 2017/2018. If the Hartzell prop was measurably quieter then I might well jump at that instead

I'm 4 s/n# before rbp (mine's a late 97), but dodged the crankshft AD. IIRC, the AD specified s/n' of affected engines and cranks? In any case, if anyone is in the Bravo market, this is a great vintage of the model

1875 TIT is *waaaay* to high - maybe someone else can chime n here, but on the basis most turbos have a TIT limit of1650, and the AF1B is already "overrated" with a redline at 1750, I wonder if your outlet is toast and some of the vanes have melted or disappeared. To me it really sounds like you have an induction leak or there is something not right in the turbo. Do you have any other instrumentation to back up the factory gauges, such as an EDM (with it's own independent MP and TIT), or have you had the factory gauges checked? The one time I made an adjustment it took me three or four runs to get the setting nailed, and then the next run with my A&P before he would sign it, it had moved 1/2" by wiring and cowling up. Less than 1" of movement on the end of a 6" long spanner made a very measurable difference. I'm considering the MT next time I come up for prop o/h - I like the idea of less weight, 1" more prop clearance and a short take off roll and better cruise. I'd like to hear from someone who has done it first, before committing to a 10+AMU job though I'm with Andy here. My standard (ie not runway length or obstacle clearance limited) SOP is rotate at POH +3/+5 (I don't mean to teach you to suck eggs here, but you do realise Vr varies with TOW don't you?) wait for 80-85KIAS, brakes on & off, gear up, hold the attitude. ~1000fpm depending on temps and altitude wait for 100-105KIAS, flaps up, hold the attitude wait for 120 KIAS, reduce to 34" 2400, trim nose down and lean to 1400 TIT (about 22GPH). 1000fpm (light and cool) to 600fpm (hot and heavy) hold this until ToC, when it's cowl flaps closed, wait a minute of so, and reduce to cruise (normally 30" 200 for me), then lean to 15-25 LOP

I live in Zurich, the Bravo lives in France at Mulhouse-Habsheim. Not sure what's on in May yet, other than a few long weekends thanks to Bank holidays! PM me your plans when you have them, if a meet looks practical it's always good to pick a fellow Mooniacs brain (and even better when they're a Bravo driver!)

That's about 20 degrees LOP (gas here is expensive, I couldn't afford to cruise at 17+GPH on a regular basis!) I can't get to the TIT limit at 30" and below, peak would be about 1650-1700 (but I'd try to avoid any continuous time at much over 1650). One flight here: https://www.savvyanalysis.com/flight/825485/14f3f54f-8946-4f40-b0fb-2ae7a5df390e- that was FL230

Welcome Zibolsk1 - congrats on the purchase, and welcome to the club! I've recently had a short overboost as well, and am looking into the cause. I'm guessing it must be in the absolute controller, as that should override the differential controller, but it is of course possible it's something else like a restriction in an oil line somewhere. Mine occurred on the climb out passing through about 5000' - boost went up to 36" briefly (but it was cold) and I grabbed in in time to make the easiest category in the Lycoming overboost SB592 For temps, in the cruise, 12-13GPH , 30" 2200, cowl flaps closed, normally about 350 in the cruise for the CHT, 180ish for the oil. My EGT probes are close to the cylinder heads, so quite high (about 1550), but as the temperature is so closely related to the distance from the flange, I expect there will be a lot of variation in non-factory installed figures. No nose wheel shimmy here, have a search in the forums here, as a lot has been written about it for most models

I'm with Clarence and Don too - it's rare I need to despatch from home with more than 800PSI (that gives two of us more than enough for a 2.5 hour flight out and another 2.5 back), and as my supplier provides the bottles at 3000PSI for 70CHF (near enough to 70USD), spending a load to get the last few hundred PSI just isn't worth it. I just have a single filling bottle, and that lasts me around a year. Ah - that's the special secret mod - you connect the masks to the TKS tank and breath the alcohol fumes, and deploy the high pressure oxygen from the wing leading edges at touchdown for ultra short stopping distance

Lots of questions in there, I'll try some of them: Assuming you have the Scott 26875/26884 filling adaptor, then that already has a restrictor in it, so in theory you should be able to dump from your filling tank as fast as you can. However, I'm always cautious opening the valve, and can normally find something to do for a few minutes so as to avoid the need to rush. If you have that filling connector, you probably need something like this overpriced gadget to put on your filling loop. I don't know what you have on your dive bottle, but I use the cylinder tap to regulate the flow. As to why your adapter is marked 'not for oxygen' I can only guess - maybe the material is is made of is not suitable, of maybe it's just a product liability thing, but probably worth a bit more research. I've never bought oxygen from a dive shop, so have no idea how to cope with that! My filling rig:

Many years a go IIRC there was a mid-body Mooney based at Cumbernauld - not sure if it is still there, but if so, Kenny or George should be able to put you in touch

I would say you *do* need a flow meter, or there's no point in getting an Oxysaver/oxymiser - just go for the plain cannula (and put a few $ in the CB club tin, but you'll spend it on fills later) I find the mask gets through 3 or 4 times the O2 as the oxysaver, but some of that is due to the higher altitude

I've got the basic one too - fitted by a previous owner. Seems to work well, and have not needed to repair it so far, but when it does, will probably be due to the clutz pilot forgetting to de-pressurize if before opening the door!

One sold to China with a B- reg http://www.flyer.co.uk/aviation-news/newsfeed.php?artnum=2136

How about just 'Trip reports' or similar? I don't do vacations very often!

A wild thought that just woke me up (!!) - for you guys suffering a lowering oil pressure as you climb, does the oil pressure vary if you change the MP? My thinking was that if the oil restrictor to the wastegate was missing (or oversize) then the controllers are just going to be flowing lots of oil through the wastegate. The restrictor is (should be!) in the T piece on the accessory housing that feeds the wastegate Another possibility is that the wastegate piston is leaking, and dumping the oil through the drain rather than through the density and/or differential controllers Both of these will use up the flow from the pump, lowering the pressure

For the MP gauge being slow, there is a damper adjustment in the back of the unit. It's a right PITA to get to, you really need to take the instrument out of the panel and set it up. That is only valid of course if the line from the inlet port is clear, but if you're going to blow/suck that through, then you'll be disconnecting it from the instrument anyway.

I'm afraid my bet is on the turbo itself - either the bearings are shot, or for some other reason it is binding on the housing. If you take the cowl off, and then the flex hose to the turbo, you can see the end of the impeller. If you can move it from side to side with your fingertip, and see the movement, then the bearings have had it. If you can just feel but not see the slightest movement, it might be ok.

Is the impulse coupling ok? I would also check to make sure the spark plug gap is not too large. If the spark is ok, then give a good prime and watch to see if any fuel dribbles from the sniffle valve