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Would you please tell us a little bit why you want brakes on the right side. A J model lands on under 200 yards in almost all conditions, and steering doesn't need brakes at all. Just curious.

IMHO ... 12 likes to your post are showing how much owners (including me) love their Mooneys, not that it is reasonable to ignore the factory shut-down. Mooney do need parts when damaged on ground / in the hangar / at an airshow. I have had my fair share of it. It is true so that just from flying you won't need parts. And not every part from the salvaging companies can be put back into service. Stocks did shrink, will continue to shrink, ... and I wish I had the solution.

If you were just considering wear (and not tear), I am sure one could come up with a good short list, but many people will be coming up with the same lists soon. When you add parts needed because of damage caused on the parking (damage to our M20J exclusively happened happened on the ground) you would have to add all the feathers sticking out (ailerons, tail, cowl, spinner, I don't know what). You would have to shop parts for up to the value of your plane or more. Really useful ?

Thought somebody might enjoy the fuzzy sight of a 201 on TV (Miami Vice, episode 15, final scene). In front Tubbs' Cadillac Coupe de Ville, in the background an M20J 201 - red and blue on white with a tail fin as nice as the fins in front ;) Unfortunately the tail number has been erased. Would the owner of this J - I am sure s/he remembers her on the parking spot that day - please respond to this post ?

I can see this in every post !! :=)

@whiskytango take a good look at this : http://www.knr-inc.com/shoptalk-articles/25-shoptalk/85-201702 some interesting details about fuel gauges in the second half of the doc

Could you change signature line to "PP observations only, not a mechanic ..." ?

@OP I hope you haven't dumped your batteries yet. Main reason, it's hard to imagine both batteries died the same day. Just do what you would do in your wife's car in winter and a failed cold start. - take both batteries home, for some TLC - wait until they warm up in your garage, then "slowly" charge (0.5 AMps over night ?), any observations ? - measure and note voltage after full charge and again 4 hours later, - if your electronic charger doesn't seem to work, the battery's voltage may be too low, for the measurement circuit, try a constant voltage charger for the first hour, easy does it, - if the battery seems ok, put her back into the plane, turn on a few lights and a radio, and draw 1.5 A max. - wait and see what happens, turn everything off, wait a few hours (or longer) and try again, - is she holding charge, has the voltage dropped, etc. - use these data for guided troubleshooting (you'll find the flow charts on the internet). - repeat with 2nd battery This won't bring a dead battery back to life, but you wanna double check before you dump 750$, no ?

Our 205 (1987) had it, and I really didn't like it. It's constantly in your way when reaching for the trim wheel. Admitted, I hardly ever use the electric trim at all Would your mechanic have noticed if she had that armrest when you first presented her ?

I don't wanna open the eternal LOP discussion. But without a trustworthy "knock"sensor, consider flying LOP only with 65% power or less, or go back to ROP. That's what I learned from Mike Bush's studies on the subject. LOP and 75% may just be borderline to serious trouble, and affect your engine's lifetime. Are you using an engine monitor ?

Hi Fry, I have been waiting for sb to say that ! Your cover is a very good example (and I need one too ) of what could be done. But as my knowledge of 3D printing "qualities" is limited, ... what range of properties is within reach ? soft/hard, bridle/flexible, flammable/or not, resistant to battery acid, ... You see what I mean. These properties determine whether other parts (without PMA and part number !!) are of interest. How difficult is it to make the files from scratch ?

Your problems may have been fixed long ago, but this article provides some insight https://www.avweb.com/ownership/autopilot-repairs-worth-a-try-2/

If it's a bad day, this is what might happen: your speed a little too high because you were preoccupied when the gear squeaked, you skid and slip off the rwy, hit a pole, a little fire on the side where the door is, some frogs killed, your wife insists you will never go flying again. The prop is not covered by your insurance because it is't from 2007 and the next day you call your lawyer and explain that the Radioshack expert you hired to fix this "worldly electric problem" was perfectly qualified to repair any electric systems in the whole wide world. And your lawyer says "if you insist and you pay me ... I'll sue him for working on your plane". My excuses for this little bit of entertaining malicious gossip.

Hi Htwjr, when you say the Maxwell method, I suppose you refer to what is described here, right ? http://donmaxwell.com/fuel-tank-repairs-how-we-fix-them/

Has anyone using TKS also applied ACF-50 for a longer period of time ? Are these two chemical compatible with each other and with bare metal ? Or is this a case like some antibiotics, X may be good, Y may be fine ... but never use X + Y together ... ? My (wild) guess is that the TKS fluid might just wash your otherwise lasting ACF film down the drain. And this could compromise your anti-corrosion treatment. But I agree with aviatoreb in general, some corrosion long term is better than an icing encounter without TKS.

Have you tried to talk to Jason Jennings, at the Cav Systems US Office (tech. support) ? He's been knowledgeable and helpful to me before. His email is J.Jennings@cav-systems.com

I think I found him through MAPA many years ago. He wrote for them issue after issue, subject after subject. If you thumb through the older shop-talk articles you'll see there is no stone left un-turned. Over the years his knowledge online and offline saved me thousands.

Let me respond with some common wisdom drawn from many years in shuttle operations. - micro-electronic circuits never fail - power electronics fail ... sometimes (after stress through high E and B fields) - electric devices, switches, cables etc. fail (more often when significant power or moving parts are involved) - mechanisms fail more often than electrics than electronics - mechanical devices fail the most often. This assumes quality design, proper QA and PA, no corrosion issues, no radiation. Normal aging, thermal cycle and vibrations are included in the statistics. This may not solve your problem. But it gives you some idea where to look first. My best shot (and I really do not have enough information for more than that !) : Your A&P would have found the obvious mechanical problems, but I am sure (from your account) he did not open and check the gear actuator. This would be my first suspect. How old is it ? when has it been serviced and by whom ? SIM 52 or 92 done ? is it a Plessey or Eaton. Be careful and don't trust this can only happen on gear retract. The next time it can block gear down and block your emergency gear down mechanism too, If you need better advice ... I'd suggest you contact Kerry (www.knr-inc.com) before you spend any money on it. Be prepared to answer very detailed questions. Good luck

Not trying to manage my rep., not online not offline. That's for another generation (and may be ... type of personality ) Just wanted to know where the counts come from.

Paul (weep-no-more) shared this photo with me last night when I asked about such weirdo cases mentioned before. He said this was one of the real messy cases he had to deal with, and his chemicals were up to the job. Sounds convincing, and I don't mean to hold out on you'll when the evidence is contrary to my expressed concerns.

In a similar post from 2013 scottfromiowa reported "My plane is being re-sealed (right tank) by Paul. He ran into trouble as the original owners A&P used silicone in the tank in an attempt to patch and Paul's stripping process would not "eat it". Paul has sealed 700+ tanks and mine was top five....worst he has seen" My guess, you cannot trust every A&P or owner to stick to the MMM.

While this seems all plausible, it misses one aspect. A leaking tank with original sealant can certainly be striped and re-sealed with a very high chance of long lasting success. Once your mechanic patched with "something magical" on top of the original sealant, your chances that the weep-no-more or similar chemicals can remove the entire sandwich of sealants may go down the drain. In this case your guess wasn't just wrong, you paid good faith money for destroying any chance of a future fix. Does anybody have personal experience of the unpleasant kind with such a case ?

That is all true . By the way, thank you for helping to make this such a great community. And since you're helping me out already, how do these reputation counts change ? Simple math or clicks ?

You know, you are doing a good job while stubbornly insisting in your point. I am coming around and see it too ... your way. And had you not insisted and replied multiple times, I may have just missed that point. So what am I gonna do ? I think I have to sleep over it. Good job !