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HRM

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Everything posted by HRM

  1. That silicone edging really makes for a clean trim. The softness of it conforms to irregularities in the panel edges and give a clean, sharp finish to the overall look.
  2. HRM

    No step

    I took some reflective tape and put a big "X" on mine.
  3. Wow, that is ridiculous. It's just a valve, for low pressure air no less!
  4. There's one on Ebay here. How much is a new one?
  5. Is there a model of this switch that has the flat knob instead of a key? Is that allowed?
  6. I am looking for an original aluminum pilots side panel from a sixties era M20E. This is the one with the horizontal bend in it, P/N number 820001-3. I am happy to pay for it and apparently these get tossed for some reason so if you are upgrading and have one, please PM. Instrument layout unimportant.
  7. Mea culpa, missed that factoid in my Mooniacal Mooneyspatial fog.
  8. Check my gallery, here.
  9. I didn't think you could have an E with a carb engine. In fact, isn't that the difference between a C and an E?
  10. Bruce might sell you just the lower Boltaron plastic door panel, window edging and armrest. To install the Spatial Interior door panel you remove the Royalite panel and cut the bottom half off it. Then you restore the panel using Bruce's fiberglass tape process. The photo is my door, but the armrest had not yet been attached.
  11. I am more interested in the pressurization issue. What does it take to make an airframe pressurized? Why is it so expensive? What did Mooney have to do to create the Mustang from it's non-pressurized fleet?
  12. Why hasn't anyone just reworked a bent panel? In my case, all of my instruments are in excellent shape, in fact, my CFII has commented on how rarely I have to adjust my DG. All I want to do is get rid of the huge vacuum gauge, which I don't even need since I have an MVP-50, and then reorder my current instruments into six-pack config. Well, I want to move my CDI over with the ILS on the pilots side as well.
  13. Is the panel in your plane the same as a '66 E? The E has a fold horizontally down the middle. Most just flatten it out. I guess the more important question is whether or not what is behind the panel is the same. Some have reported issues with the control shaft, etc.
  14. You don't fly an E Matt, it flies you
  15. Thanks, LASAR is sending me their design kit and that has bothered me a bit. The 8-hole is probably what I will go with, using the same arrangement as you've chosen. I really like the idea of my two CDI's being next to each other along with the six-pack.
  16. I've done quite a bit of research on this (M20E) and it looks like with all upper panel replacements, where you do not move or change the switches and cable controls below, the yoke and it's bracket have to be messed with. On my panel, my vacuum gauge (<2"?) is just above the yoke and I think the reason for that is because of the clearance, or lack thereof. In Jonathan Paul's excellent discussion of his install of a LASAR panel, he describes in somewhat disturbing detail what has to be done.
  17. Did you have to do anything with the yoke to fit the new panel in?
  18. Those locks are relatively easy to obtain as they are similar to file cabinet and desk locks. They do have a unique "bar" piece, but it unscrews IIRC. You do, however, want to consider the fact that locks on aircraft just "keep honest people honest". If you lock your plane and a thief really wants at an expensive piece of avionics in your panel, he's just going to cut a hole in your door. That repair, along with the lost avionics, will be a harder hit to your insurance than just the avionics.
  19. I thought a Mooney Rocket was an Experimental
  20. Was the pilot panel upgraded to a six-pack layout? If so, I am interested in it. I do not need the instruments.
  21. That link is now dead.
  22. That link is now dead.
  23. LASAR has a "layout kit" that they send out so that guys who buy a custom panel from them can do the layout. That may be helpful for you. I doubt they would mind helping out.
  24. I am going to say that you did not latch the door. Given how the mechanism works, I cannot see how it could unlatch on it's own unless there was something terribly wrong with it. I think that "terribly wrong thing" would be obvious on latching it. You "did the right thing" by aborting. If that door was to snap off, it could take a piece of the empennage out and then your day would turn really, really bad. Yes, add "lock & secure baggage door" to your checklist.
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