cliffy

The tank senders were originally out of a 50s Cadillac :-)

Its 30 ohm system Hook a 15 ohm (10%- gold stripe) resistor the center wire and the other end to ground and you should see 1/2 tank on the gage. The lever on the tank transmitter should go from near 0 ohms to about 30 ohms smoothly If it jumps around a lot during the travel its in need of work. Don't tighten the gasket screws down too tight or you will deform the mount hole and have a heck of a time trying to seal the transmitter even with a new gasket I always use a LITTLE aviation Titeseal gasket sealer on them when I assemble them.

With the final amount of VOR/DME stations after removing most I would think that DME/DME mav would be problematic due to reception issues because the stations are so far apart (unless you were high and even then?)

I did one and found a big error on the original factory W&B sheet They made mistakes also. Don't just blindly trust the first one.

IIRC I looked up and read the actual spec sheet a long time ago for the MIL SPEC for the 193 hose qualification (H 5593-C) and in that it says that 193 hose meets a certain spec (4.4.3.7 paragraph) for immersion in 5606. Basically the MIL spec does require a certain amount of resistance to petroleum products but its not specifically designed for it. So 50 + years of immersion of course might cause a leak even in a static pressure hose. file:///C:/Users/72773/Downloads/MIL-H-5593C.pdf

Don't take this the wrong way but if those lines are so old that you are cautious about handling them then maybe its time to replace them. I've seen fuel pressure lines so old they just bust like spaghetti when removed. One had a date on it of 1963. It was well over 50 years old for a rubber hose carrying pressurized fuel. Be cautious and check the dates Not something one might want to cheap out on. The other line that most forget about is the hyd line to the flaps under the cabin. Have seen several that were date of aircraft manufacture. It can be challenging to change but it has to be done to keep our fleet going.

Couple flies from Germany to Australia AND back in their Mooney This is a very detailed long read https://euroga.org/forums/trips-airports/15530-down-to-oz-and-back-agin-the-whole-story?fbclid=IwAR1apQ8rnMdHiskPhuUPdIRDUyMV9X6CMrhD-iIrbI-RfFOqHMiy0YhwG3E_aem_AZp_IhINaL9hczkSFgErtgEAK-PdBuWee6SbC2lmBZRuuYn1rnRWrj9ch9djQMK2DhVQk3H9rzK4aZ5muUbCEjJ4

IF you use nitrate dope be very aware of its flammability!!! Don't even think of smoking or open flames anywhere near the work area I once saw a Fairchild 24 wing go up in flames and smoke in about 2 mins when the wet nitrate dope was torched off by someone smoking. Wood working and fabric on GA airplanes is a lost art. Not many do it today. If the wood under the compromised area is itself compromised in any way I would suggest getting someone who knows and does a/c wood work to do the repair by the book.

Being piano wire you ain't gonna be able to bend it. :-)

More exposure you never know where a customer comes from

Many times the wire is cut slightly short of the full length of the hinge and the last "loop" it goes through is crimped down slightly to keep the wire from working its way out. This does make it a little harder to remove the wire if ever needed but its not too difficult.

I did one on a Navajo many years ago also. They really are not THAT bad to do with the right factory repair book. Pressure check it and then trouble shoot to see why it doesn't light off- It can be done.

I've done those on my own bench You can "overhaul" them but in most cases that is not necessary. IRAN is better There is a combustion can pressure check AD that needs to be complied with every year (I had a Twinkie non-turbo). Many shops can do the pressure check in the airplane. No need to take it out. There is also an AD on the fuel shutoff solenoid to check for leaks. Its a very simple system to repair IF the combustor can has no pressure leaks. Spark to light it off, fuel delivery (clogged nozzle) I've found this. Fuel pressure and air pressure to run Getting it out of the Twinkie is a project You might also try to remove each wire connection ONE AT A TIME and clean each with a wire tooth brush for good contact. It looks like it has been sitting for a long time.

Thank you for the explanation Your investigation analysis seems quite good but I have no idea how to do Fluid Dynamic Analysis Way beyond my basic mechanics vocational work. Keep going please

How will the flanges be stiffened? The bellows look good but I have the same concern as Andy95W

Its a Mooney forum talking about an alternative engine option A thought to using in a Mooney was proffered And Es Fs and others were talked about as a subject of investigation- so I don;t think my comments were too far off subject but if they were OK

Do we realize we are talking about a re-engine project on a close to 50 year old airframe? With a limited amount of viable subjects and we aren't making any more of them so as every day passes with every crash the market size dwindles? I'm thinking ROI here.

It was black with a metallic matrix The base mount area on the fuselage had to be cleaned to bare metal for conduction A spot about 60-&)% of the base size was sufficient back then. The same theory applies to the plain bent wire whip antenna that mount in one small hole (frankly for small GA airplanes they do a good job) You would drill the hole and the center of the coax cable was hooked to the vertical whip and the shielding of the coax was attached to the base where it connects to the fuselage skin (called a Ground Plane) You big white antenna has the same requirement for a "ground plane" connection. You always need a good clean connection to the ground plane on any communications antenna (not VOR antennas).

I worked for COMANT back when they started up at KSMO We included GROUNDING base gaskets with each antenna. Grounding the base is vital to the efficiency of the antenna The screw holes on the top of the antenna "may" be able to be used as a ground path on some models IF the bottom of the are cleaned to bare metal so the screw heads make contact to transfer the ground path to the nuts inside the fuselage. Make sure the washers and nuts are clean and the metal inside is also clean.

When I rebuilt mine I bought all the parts from LASAR and did my own assembly. IIRC bolts bushings and HEIM joints were all available but its been a few years. The worn items were obvious and then the shims come in many thicknesses and you need a variety of them to get the slack out.

You didn't say which model Mooney you have but on some short bodies the flap position indicator on the nose wheel bay may need to be unscrewed and moved sideways out of the way also in order to get the seat to move far enough forward to unhook the front end.

Holding my breath that all this comes to pass. I'm in for helping get any kind of approval for the short bodies If they are willing and want resume from me to help move it along with my short body - I can supply both

PM sent to Florian

Questions IF anyone knows- Is there any indication just what the short body mod might entail? Do they have an idea of what is entailed? I wonder what the possibility of getting a field approval due to similarity of airframe with the short body mod? It happened with the Trio A/P on Cessnas I can't think that DER involvement would be too difficult if only a roll channel hardware mod is contemplated. Can anyone confirm that they are delivering units? Who has a supply as I'd might be willing to be the Guinee pig for the short body

I did mine in about 3-4 hrs but I think I was the second install he had. My interior was out at the time.