rogerl

Quote: M20JFlyer Recent member and have not seen any talk of lens rehab. Have 1991 J , always hangared but cloudy lens Are Mooney light lens Lexan or Plexiglass? A Booth at 2009 Osh Airventure was rehabing aircraft, auto and boat lenses. The results looked good. Any coments on rehab vs purchase new. Last estimate was approx $160 USD for each lens. [...] Patrick Lyons M20JFlyer Cell: 832.655.4203

Quote: rubixcube2k3 [...] On the fuel level senders, the top of the shelf where the seats go (I guess the center of the wing spar inside the plane???) and on under the duct tape securing 2 of the 8 aluminum service panels under the seat, I found a thick blue sticky substance. Am I right to assume that this is dried AVGAS? Or could it possibly be Corrosion-X or ACF-50? I'm entertaining changing the carpet (it's the only original interior item remaining) but don't want to swap it if there's the possibility of ruining the new carpet. Any thoughts and ideas are welcomed. [...] ~Cube

Quote: Paul Has anyone heard any rumors as to when the KSN770 will be available?

Quote: rob Roger: Relax. You seem to be wound pretty tight. I'd guess you were calling Microsoft the evil empire a few years back, and probably spelling it with a $. Just because a company is successful and leads a market doesn't mean you have to hate them.

Quote: The-sky-captain Does the ipad need 3g to get georef on the maps (or just wifi)? If so do you need the AT&T monthly subscription for it to work?

Quote: Parker_Woodruff These headrests suit my and my wife's head position very well, we're both average height. The prongs on the headrests are long enough, however, that you could shim them up if needed.

Wow, rough crowd today. Quote: RJBrown They would look better to match the seats to the headrest not the other way around. Those blue seats remind me of the ones that came in my 80 231, could not wait to get rid of them.

Quote: carusoam rogerl, Great spread sheet. I loaded me, my friends, camping gear and planned fuel for OSH.... we're a bit heavy but still within limits... The view needed a little modification. Dragged and dropped the graphs a little lower. They had landed on top of a set of data point charts originally. The charts were probably hidden at one point.....? Has anyone worked a spreadsheet for take-off distances... function of (pressure alt, temp, weight, wind, obstacle height, grass, humidity)? Best regards, -a-

Having bought 201ZT sans headrests, we were ecstatic to find that 2001 Toyota Rav4 removeable rear set headrests fit perfectly. Now with some blue leather covering, we be stylin' ! Not vouching for airworthness or suitability for any particular application ...

Some might find this weight/balance spreadsheet useful - it is for 1978 M20J 201ZT, but could easily be adjusted for your make, model and empty weight. It was interesting to do sensitivity analysis (play around with the numbers!) and see just how hard it is to load a J out of specs (save overloading). It was created with Open Office Calc, but saved in M$ Excel '97 (hopefully - not tested outside of Calc) compatible format. Use entirely at your own risk; do not use for final decision making. http://www.softoutfit.com/WeightBalance.xls

Quote: Kwixdraw That would be a metal locknut. I don't happen to remember the AN #.( Working on my A&P now.) Get a copy of AC 43.13 approved methods and techniques of repair and you will have the answers to most any of these questions that pop up. Around $19 from Sportys or Spruce. You should have a copy around when doing any work on your bird along with the service manual.

KCS 55A HSI System - from '78 M20J. HSI was sticking occasionally - so needs test/rebuild? Part #/Serial #'s of components: KG201 060-001500/8831 mods 1-5; HSI 066-3046-01/7512 no mods marked; 51a 071-1053/6272 no mods marked, glued shut. Connectors, can tray. Parts look good; from what I can tell I don't think the can has 'mod 1' installed: <!-- @page { margin: 0.79in } P { margin-bottom: 0.08in } --> Mod 1 for the KG-102A gyro capsule (P/N 060-0016-00) incorporates mechanical locking devices on the spin motor assembly and bearing end play adjustments. Quite simply, this modification should be incorporated when the gyro requires maintenance since service parts for gyros not containing this mod are no longer available. The modification itself consists of installing a redesigned outer gimbals assembly and housing cap with a new bearing retainer and lock nut. The old style had glued in bearings. The parts kit for installing this Mod is not cost prohibitive. However, due to the labor required to install the kit, the parts and labor cost exceed the gyro value in most cases. I'm thinking the entire thing is worth at least $1500; let me know if you have a different opinion but are interested in it. Also have a complete M1a loran with all docs, parts and antenna, and a VSI that looks to be in good condition (needle is centered and was working fine when removed for aspen). Just sold a kt96 radio telephone on ebay for 99 cents, so thought I'd give this a try.

Quote: 16LPilot Oh, I get it. You don't have to pay for the PFD, but you have to pay for the Jeppesen data for the MFD. Anyone know how much that is?

I use the "Universal XL Fuel Gauge" available at most online pilot shops. I have the 16" model, which is substantially too long but much harder to drop into the tank . You have to calibrate it using the instructions/chart, and interpolate as it's non-linear. Not difficult, but takes some time at the pump. I ran through a couple of calibrations to help zero in on accuracy, then used a permanent marker (sharpie) to annotate the tester itself. Seems to do the trick pretty well.

Quote: Jeev The Aspen really looks nice and the added capabilities are awesome! I am thinking of doing this upgrade during my annual in August. If you guys don't mind can you post the final installed price or PM me? Thanks!

Quote: fantom That flush mounting is very nice

Quote: Parker_Woodruff Nice Groundspeed

Test flight went ok - goodbye trusty old kcs55a. Aspen seems to work fine with the KFC 200, including running vor intercepts. Going to take time to get used to tapes instead of dials. Kept looking to the steam ASI and altimeter most of the time, and missing the VSI. One suggestion installer had was to get some 'inop' steam gauge covers to force going first to the tapes. Another good fact pointed out was that the arrangement of the tapes is the same as the old six pack; ASI upper left, attitude center, altimeter upper right and vsi lower left DG/HSI lower center. The slip/skid indicator is different, but in a 'better' kind of way except it's pretty small. So that's about 45 minutes without any real nav use; more to come in the months ahead. Note 1: airspeeds were set to mph; as per installer: We are obligated to set the airspeed display to MPH rather than KTS since that is they way your POH reads per the Aspen STC. Let me do some checking to see if we can deviate from the STC and set the reading for KTS.

Picking it up tomorrow. Won't see full functionality until a GPS is installed - it is initially coupled only to KNS80 and KX170B navs. I made the move now since my KCS 55a was starting to stick, and I didn't want to troubleshoot/rebuild it merely to eventually replace with an ADAHRS, and using a whiskey compass in charlie airspace is a _little_ dicey. It will be coupled to the KFC200. It'll be ideal if I can hold out on the GPS until the KSN 770 comes out - at the very least it should put some price pressure on the aging 4/530 family. Optimistic on an Osh announcement, but who knows ... So far, am not particularly happy that a 1 week estimate is now at 3 weeks - but that seems to be pretty standard with folks working on aircraft - can't (or won't) estimate realistic completion dates. Aspen publishes something like 40 to 50 hours for a standard install time. I did have to get the ki256 relocated - which I would expect not much more than 8 hours to accomplish. Should have some pictures tomorrow - assuming the winds hold out. Will give more description of the costs, shop, etc. when things shake out. Great idea to start a thread for experiences/hints with the Aspen - will post as I get some time with it, and am looking forward to others' hints.

I use the (manual lever activated) speed brakes usually only if I'm coming in a little hot or high (J model). At landing they don't seem to do much - perhaps affected by the angle of attack as others have mentioned. The gear are way more effective as a 'speed brake' on the J. The other day I brought it in with no flaps but with speed brakes deployed as a winds experiment; worked a lot like a 15 degree flaps landing. All in all, handy for 'poor planning' situations but I'm happy I didn't spring for multiple thousands to get them installed. If you're considering, I'd go with manual if they're available - the pressure required to activate is a "two fingers" deal. Lever is between the seats, slightly inconvenient to reach but not bad. Not sure why they made electric or hydraulic ones at all.

Spent the last few days at Doña Ana (5T6) - a couple more than planned. Friday 55/60 mph wind/sand storm popped up, and by the time we got to the airport, conditions were too bad to move zt from the tiedown into the hanger. Fortunately for the structure - but unfortunately for the ram air door - it was pointed into the wind. The ram air door doesn't close super tightly - even though the gasket is reasonably pliable. Sand/dust had an hour or so to infiltrate before we got to it to duct tape over the door. Saturday was spent removing the cowling and the ram air butterfly valve and carefully sponging out debris. Fortunate that the throttle was fully closed, leaving that horizontal butteryfly valve as a further obstacle to ingress. The return trip Sunday was uneventful, so seems that any damage is more chronic than acute. An A&P/IA that was around did note that he wouldn't worry about it, as most would blow through the engine at startup - but I did my best to get every speck I could find out, + am going to do an oil and filter change ASAP. Lessons learned: 1) Hanger it if there's a reasonable option; or at least be vigilant about the weather when on a trip even while NOT flying 2) Cover and delete the ram air system ASAP Side note: 5T6 FBO operator "Blue Feather Aviation" took great care of us - I highly recommend paying a visit if you have a chance. Don't miss war eagles air museum (http://www.war-eagles-air-museum.com) on the field.

Quote: Jeff_S I'll add a similar request, but this one about the lower ball-joint air vent by my knees. The ball joint is loose enough in the housing that if the vent is closed tightly, trying to open it just makes the whole unit twist. If I reach down and hold the ball joint to get the vent started open then I can open it the rest of the way, but it's an annoyance. How can I tighten the ball joint?

Quote: Mckipper ... My question, do you normally use flap on TO (I notice a big nose down pitch change when deploying flaps) and do you use the TO mark on the trim tab, or do you have your own mark. I have noticed that that all moving tail needs constant trimming, and that she seems to be very sensitive to loading (ie, front only or front and back seats occupied makes a huge difference to the trim setting)

For the early J's with a bench seat in the back the plywood board that holds the carpet looks to be a good place to mount the cylinder - similar to the location of the factory kit, but without the recess and the incredible price tag. Others have pointed out there are issues, but compromise might be worth it - In my opinion, mounting underneath the panel or on the floor by the pilots legs is a recipe for disaster. If there is an engine or electrical fire, the heat/flames will be coming from that vicinity - making it difficult to retrieve the extinguisher in a most critical moment. Burns sustained from in-flight fires often afflict feet, legs and hands - tending to support my contention that the fire extinguisher should be well away from the area that a fire is most likely to sourced from. Roger

Quote: N6843N What thickness did you order? Have you installed it yet?