carusoam

http://www.hendricksmfg.com/catalog.html?&Vl=2&Tp=2 Poke around this website a bit. Look up mooney65e in the photo galleries section of mooneyspace....

The enemies of the donut=weight, time and temperature. (not so much, hours flown or number of landings) My guess... The concern for donuts with only 50 hrs on them is.... The 50 hrs were the good hours when no compressive stress was placed on them and they were allowed to relax.... How many years out in the hot sun was 2,500# of airplane squeezing them down ever thinner and thinner??? Longer heavier mooneys are known/rumored to compress their donuts sooner than short / lighter mooneys. Rubber is a visco elastic material. Viscous = slow flowing (years), Elastic = return to original form. Over time, the compression force of the weight of the airplane will shorten the height of the donut. Increased temperature will make it occur sooner. The elasticity is also lost (harden) as the age of the rubber increases. On an active mooney, with only 50 hours, the donuts, were used for a year or less? On an inactive mooney, the 50 hrs does not tell much about how compressed or how old the donuts can be. -a-

Advice from the assistant to the mechanic...... The all metal lock nuts are reusable. (My mechanic would re-use them). They are also easy enough to replace. Low cost and available from Spruce and Specialty. (I usually keep a few of the most common on hand and pass new ones to my mechanic) You can usually get a feel for their health while tightenening them on. The locking part will provide extra resistance compared to the first part of the nut. If you do not feel the extra resistance.....strongly consider replacement.... The all metal lock nuts are usually used in places where the temperature can be high. The nylon or "fiber" lock nuts could have their locking mechanism melt in these high temperature environments. Nylon lock nuts do come in a high temperature version. They are usually color coded (white, green or red) I would stay with the recommended part from the parts manual for your bird. On 40 year old planes, there may have been substitutions. Disclaimer: Always check with your mechanic (not the assistant for further guidance) -a-

George, Does your price for side windows include the removal of the vertical piece? or was that additional to the price? -a-

Ace, Welcome to the space. A quick search of the threads will yield two regarding the same topic you are interested in.... http://www.mooneyspace.com/index.cfm?mainaction=posts&forumid=3&threadid=862 http://www.mooneyspace.com/index.cfm?mainaction=posts&forumid=2&threadid=629 You will find that co-pilot side brakes are not easy to come buy, but the threads may shed some light on alternatives. Best regards, -a-

JM, Great decision to need to make... I considered the 10 day immersion, but decided to attend a school instead. The upside of the school, You could do it in 10 days, or skip every other day to catch up on things. The school had equipment and instructors that were (nearly) always available. It took me about 6 weeks total, with time off for Christmas and other things (like work). Most of my flights were in the 2 - 3 hour category. That's about the maximum work I can put into learning in one day. I think the best advantage you have, is that you will be learning in your airplane with your nav equipment. I used school planes, no autopilot. They had a tendency to drift off course if you were slow on the scan (no time to read approach plates twice). I found in my time off, I could review procedures and plan ahead using microsoft flight simulator. Bottom line, I wanted to spread my flying dollars over a longer period of time. You won't go wrong either way. Advice: Start studying.....get started training.... I look forward to hearing what and how you decide... Best regards, -a-

Is anyone using their system (geo referenced) on approach plates? This sounds really good to me. Is it hype or is it real? Paper vs. glass makes no difference to me unless I can see my aiprlane on course. Best regards, -a-

Reality check. This puts me into early 201 territory. I'm starting to think about saying goodbye to this plane and start shopping for 201s. It seems like there are a few out there that come close to what I want for the same money and would have better resale latter on. What do you think??

If someone hasn't already said it. Welcome... :) David

Jack, Just a guess, but based on what you are saying, mixed with very little experience... Take a look at how smoothly your trim wheel is operating (by hand). When my plane went through its pre-purchase inspection, it had a significant amount of hardened grease removed from the trim system. It sounds like it is possible that the KFC is commanding a change in trim (or roll), followed by resistance to that change. When resistance is sensed by the KFC, it turns itself off. I am not familiar of an accelerometer based cut out of the KFC. The KFC will turn off, by pushing the red button, or the AP switch, or by overpowering the servos (just try to touch the trim button). On start-up, the KFC tests the status of all system parts including the electric trim and servos. If they are not working properly enough for the test, the KFC beeps annoyingly until you remove power from it. However, it does not test the full extent of travel of the servos. I think some cleaning and new lubrication in the right area may be helpful to identify your situation. Hope this helps Best regards, -a-

Quote: flight2000 Just hope I never hear, "Dad, we need a bigger plane...." Brian

Jack, Welcome aboard... There should be a limit to the bank angle that the KFC 150 will go to. If I remember correctly, it is slightly steeper than standard rate. The angle is stated in the supplement that should be in your POH. Unfortunately, I left my POH in the plane this weekend, or I would have written it here. For comparison, I have not had KFC 150 cause a load up on Gs, cut out or change altitude either... Suggestion, check POH for maximum bank angle, compare to actual bank angle... Hope this helps get you going in the right direction... Best regards, -a-

Cross reference to UL thread that was creatively titled.... http://www.mooneyspace.com/index.cfm?mainaction=posts&forumid=1&threadid=835 M20R 1051# (This would be the probable target UL for the repowered PFMs....)

Don, If you are fortunate, it is only a cleaning and lubrication issue on the bendix drive portion of the starter. The sliding mechanism can collect a little dirt, and if it has not been used in a while, you will here the starter motor wind up and nothing else happen. (I had experienced this on my M20C). I suppose the opposite may be true also, once engaged, difficulty in disengagement may occur. Watch for an electrical overcharge as a stuck starter will turn into a generator. (I have not seen this happen) I ended up rebuilding the starter / bendix at annual a few months later... Hope you are fortunate and only need a little clean and lube. Best regards,

I saw some discussion coming from another thread and I was interested in the technique you all use for touch and go(s). Or if you don't TnG, That is interesting also. My M20C: (Manual trim) [1] full flaps, trim, power off, Land, [2] then flaps up (all of the way), [3] full power while holding the nose in check and frenetically spinning the trim to remove pressure from the yoke. I can see how your hands are full trying to maintain vertical control at the same time that the runway is getting short. My M20R: (electric trim) [1] Have not tried it. However, The trim and flap motors operate at identical speed, so as fast as the flaps come up the trim can theoretically come down. I know it works well in the opposite direction (flaps going down, trim coming up). Best regards, -a-

I changed my profile to show newest posts first. Logged out, then logged back in...... Now I can see all of the posts...... But now I can't find the reply section.... -a- PS, Then I changed my profile back to show oldest posts first. Logged out, logged back in...Problem returns. Problem not solved, but a work around sort of figured out.... -a-

I am blocked out of Landings gone wild (from the beginning) and I finally did it...(after several posts) PM sent to Craig (mooniac58) Best regards, -a-

We need an east coast ambassador's event...and a celebration for low priced fuel... -a-

I wish the $3.49 / gallon was a little closer by here!!! -a-

Wheel Covers Polished Stainless Steel No.149 Speed Increase0 Parts HDW & STC/Labor$130.00 Description Attractive Hub Caps for the Nose gear and Main gear (set of 4) Includes mounting hardware for the 3 hole predrilled wheels. Kit also includes a Tail skid and Wing Tie downs/ Jack pads. The strong Tie downs are a combination ring and cone for jacking the airplane. Parts may be purchased indiovidually. http://www.lasar.com/mod-details.asp?id=27 Unfortunately, the photo does not match the description. Talk to the good folks at Lasar to get better details.... Keep in mind, the mains go on really easy. The nose wheel gets two, one on the axle side... -a-

Mooneys and Hawgs, perfect together.... Saw this opportunity early one morning at SnF. Thanks again to those that fly / serve for this great country in which we fly. Best regards, - a -

Jolie, Any chance we can get a couple of Mooney Ambassador T-Shirts. Are you making any as part of your campaign? (Not expecting free handouts, I want to $upport the Ambassador's efforts...) -a-

Jolie, We are lucky to have you on our team.... The embassadors have done a very nice job. Good luck at Oceano. Best regards, -a-

Matt, The same procedure, outlined by piloto, applies to the M20C. Two hassles I recall... [1] The rug getting pinched between the seat and rails. Going back in is a slighlty bigger hassle. [2] This also may give you an opportunity to see if the small wheels on the bottom of the seat are working or are in pieces. (I don't know if the m20J has the small wheels to aid in motion on the rails) -a-

propr, Very nice installation photograph... Aside from the Aspen portion, I especially like the 19.7 mpg indication while cruising 150+kts level at 9,000. You have really captured the essence of Mooney in one photo. Best regards, -a-