Parker_Woodruff

1 quart per 8 tach hours, but that number is getting slowly better with time. 1200 SMOH, 300 STOH. I've put 45 out of the 50 hours on the plane since I got it last month. Prior to that, it flew 50 hours over the past 4 years.

It does have the lightweight starter.

Well 50 trouble free hours was too good to be true. The last two starts I've had: 1) First attempt starter spins 2) Second attempt Starter reluctant to disengage after I change from "Start" to "Both" Given both of those symptoms happening, is there any chance this is just a bad relay or a bad switch, or am I looking at needing a new starter. Or maybe I'm really lucky and it's a bad battery? I've got the 14V electrical system on my M20J. Thanks!

I was wondering about this as well, but it sounds like I'm not alone. I've got about 1/4 inch of difference between the trailing edges of the aileron and the trailing edge of the wing.

Post on the AOPA boards: In Mooneys (at least the early Mooneys, not 100% sure on yours), tach time equals Hobbs time at 2500 RPM. So, if you take off and do an extended climb at 2700 RPM, then cruise a while at 2500 RPM, then descend at 2500 RPM and only fall below 2500 on short final, tach time will exceed Hobbs time. I did most of my flying today (both flights) at above 2500 RPM the whole time.

Well the last two flights my tach has gone faster than my Hobbs. So as I fly the airplane over to Don Maxwell's shop on Friday for oil change, I'm curious about how I should fly it, if any difference needs to be there. If the tach is not spinning correctly (too fast), how linked is it to the actual display on the tach? Is there a chance when I'm running at 2500 RPM that it's actually doing faster than that? The only problem with this is that the governor is limiting at 2700 RPM right where it always has. The engine sound the same at full prop/full throttle as it always has. So then my question is could the tach be giving me a correct readout on RPM but NOT correct readout on the time? Then again my Hobbs could be spinning too slow. It is tied into the alternator. Could it be going in and out if the alternator is showing any type of discharge on the ground? This, however, does not seem plausible as the amp readout is below 0 for less than 1 minute on pretty much every flight. Could any type of irregular sway in the amp charge (the type that happens a lot while ground running at 1000 RPM) be causing a bad spin for the Hobbs? thanks! EDIT: I will have a stopwatch and compare it to the hobbs on the next flight.

Pretty much they market the airplanes to weed out non-serious buyers from talking to the sellers. They charge a fee instead of getting a commission on the plane sale. Generally that fee runs about $1000-$2000 depending on the plane. They have prompt response times. Each time I've sent them an email about a plane I have gotten a response with the seller's contact info.

This is by far the most discounted airplane I've seen in this market. 1991 Mooney TLS Bravo It wouldn't work in my training operation, but would be so tempting to finance when I was thinking about getting the Mooney for personal use. First one with TKS that I've seen away from $200,000 in quite a while!

Yeah it was an Embry Riddell trainer from 1991 to about 1999 or so. It's only had about 500 hours from the second owner till I bought it last month. It's now in the training fleet at my startup...we'll see how it goes.

Not interested here, but I am convinced Scott will have the nicest 1977 201 in existence here in a short while. If Weeping Wings would only get it certified for FIKI (currently only accidental) you could do anything you wanted with a TN Mooney 201.

Thanks, Scott. I'll check out everything I can, though I'm guessing (and hoping) it's just this rotting Airtex mixed with 7000 hours.

Yeah, I've got that gas/airplane smell in mine. It doesn't smell like Avgas, but it doesn't smell like just airplane smell either. There are no fuel stains on the wing, but we'll see if Don Maxwell finds anything at 100 hour.