Slick Nick

Negative. NEVER bend ref vane on a mooney. It’s hardened steel and will snap.

For all the work involved, why not just replace the rudder? BAS has a bunch, you'd just need to have it repainted, which you'd need to do to your stock rudder anyways.

Alright, you guys have convinced me. I'm going to try with some thin CA glue instead. I'll mask both sides and make sure to use a needle tip. With the storm window open, there is just enough "give" if i were to push from the inside and apply glue from the outside, that the edge of the crack opens up ever so slightly. Opening it, applying a drop or two of glue, and then letting go might give just enough time for the glue to wick into the crack and help its appearance. The thin glue I have lists a working time of 3-5 seconds so I'll need to be quick.

Don't take my word for it. Fred George of FLYING magazine went over all the numbers when he wrote the original article on the M20J MSE. They're not just for looks. If you like the looks of the square wingtips on your plane that's fine, all the power to you. But to insist they have no performance benefit and that they were only installed "for looks" is to ignore the data. They do make a big difference. It's why Texas composites, LASAR, and Mooney fitted them instead of leaving the ancient squared off tips in place.

There's no gap really. If I were to do anything more involved, I'd probably grind out a bit of the crack on the inside and use a clear acrylic epoxy. But I'll try the clear PPF strips for now and see how it holds up.

Thanks everyone! I think what I'll do is put a thin strip of 3M clear PPF on each side of the window and leave it alone. I suspect that trying to use any sort of adhesive or epoxy will just make a huge mess. I want to keep the water out of there, as it would have a good chance of freezing at altitude and potentially cracking the window more.

In addition, The wingtips also improved the takeoff performance and reduced the flaps up stalling speed by a whopping 6 knots! They aren’t just for show.

Aren’t the side windows riveted / bolted in? Or is it a threaded stud / nut arrangement?

My plane is always stored in a heated hangar. Up at altitude, I was showing about -37*C OAT today when I Heard a "pop" randomly, figured it was just one of my water bottles expanding. Took me awhile to notice it, a crack in my side window from the storm window hole down to the bottom. What's the fix for this? My plane has relatively new paint, so replacing the whole window is somewhat out of the question. Is there an approved procedure to grind and epoxy this? It whistles slightly over about 150 knots now. Doesnt have to look perfect, its very well out of my field of view.

Just lift the handle, and bend the little tab back further. I was able to get almost a half inch engagement on mine.

@Gee Bee Aeroproducts My MSE came with clear chafe tape on the insides of all cowl edges where pieces meet from the factory. Maybe earlier models didn't? That stuff works like a hot damn. I find it especially useful on the edges of gear doors to keep them from rubbing.

My spring broke also, and yes you need to un-rivet the entire assembly to replace the spring. I've had good luck with some automotive two sided trim tape to keep it closed, as I never use it. If I ever needed a boost, would be easy enough to open the door and overpower the tape. I do like the magnet idea though, I think I may give that a try.

On the airframe or from your wallet?

It sure as heck is required here in Canada. At least a CoC stating that they're made to meet or exceed OEM specifications, or else nobody is going to be able to install them here. I like your workmanship, and I'd like to put these on my plane, but no Canadian mechanic will touch them without the proper paperwork.

I like your idea. I'd salvage them! Consider them a "prototype" anyways, the first ones are never perfect!

What size tires are you running? Those look awfully skinny.

What’s wrong with it? Looks pretty decent.

@Gee Bee Aeroproducts do your ducts come with 8130’s?

Just pull the return wire off the back of the switch. Annunciator remains bright. Not even bad at night. Reversible and takes about 60 seconds.

Just pull the return wire off the back of the switch. Annunciator remains bright. Not even bad at night. Reversible and takes about 60 seconds.

Speed tape will work wonders here. No need to stuff foam in or anything.

Hit the gym.

Those tanks look incredible

I'm gonna try mine in an ultrasonic cleaner for a bit. Should be able to get all the grot out of there.

Strange place for a clock…