A64Pilot

Instagram, I’ve not done that but assumed it came from something similar, makes sense. I’m old, I will participate in a forum once in awhile, and sure I guess that’s social media but I don’t do any of the normal sites.

Yes, but it really important I think. ‘I think the shop doing the pre-buy is earning their money and pointing out potential problems

I think the catch isn’t whether or not it’s airworthy, my opinion is if the engine passes 100 hour it is, but I think the point is how does it affect aircraft value?

I was thinking that too, usually it’s a bunch of 8130’s for parts that were sent out, like case crank, rods, cylinders etc. but does any of it have engine serial number? I don’t think it does. On edit, maybe if the case was sent off it would.

If he says entry is invalid then that means engine wasn’t overhauled. I’d correct the serial number or have owner correct it and possibly make a logbook entry saying serial number had been corrected. Problem is, it’s a little flaky no matter what and if in a year or two he goes to sell it could be an issue that affects sale, just as it is now. Most conservative response is walk, find an airplane without these issues

Seems you can search by aircraft serial number but not engine serial number

So, suppose that I have that serial number engine? I don’t but suppose I did, what does that prove? The overhaul paperwork still has the wrong serial number. To play this game the argument is show me paperwork with the correct serial number or it didn’t happen and that paperwork doesn’t exist apparently My opinion is if you really want the airplane buy it, maybe if you feel the need use this to justify a lower price. Or of course run away if your uncomfortable. If I was sure it had been overhauled I’d buy it, the issue is does this affect re-sale? Yes it might. Change the serial number yourself, just line it thru, put the correct one in, or as has been brought up before fill out a new logbook and start using it and after a year toss the old one, it only has two entries I believe you said. The catch as I understand it us if asked you can’t show overhaul documentation that has the correct serial number and that doesn’t change if you find the engine that matches the serial number in your paperwork. Now that I think about it I believe you may be able to search the aircraft registration database by engine serial number, I know it lists the engine serial number anyway. But I don’t know what finding the engine does. Lastly because someone will bring this up, but it’s the sellers problem not yours if that means anything

As there is zero documentation for installation or removal of the incorrect serial number engine I think making a logbook entry stating that the serial number was incorrect and had been corrected is the way to go. ‘I don’t know what finding out who has the incorrect serial number engine would do? Call FSDO they aren’t evil, ask their advice. I bet lunch they will tell you to correct the book to what’s in the airplane and that would be the end of it.

Different people have vastly different physiologies. I have a friend who ferries aircraft, and spends hours at altitudes well above requirements for O2, and seems to cope well. Others are hurting at 10,000, and smokers are probably at an O2 saturation altitude at seal level Another thing is even if you do fine, having a low O2 saturation often gives you headaches and fatigue, and who needs that, I don’t believe you can go on O2 too early. ‘Then add in night flight, O2 somehow greatly increases visual acuity even at altitudes well below those where it’s required. Military knew that but for some reason never supplied us with O2 even in places that were pretty high altitude. By all means get a pulse ox meter, they are cheap, but I don’t know if I trust a cheap Chinese made device all that much, in other words don’t use it to fly higher than the rules require you to be on O2 or a mask as needed.

Major, light overhaul etc are marketing terms, they don’t exist in the FAA world, you either overhaul or repair. The FAA does recognize those terms exist and even issued an AC explaining them. https://www.faa.gov/documentLibrary/media/Advisory_Circular/AC_43-11.pdf But technically an overhaul doesn’t require replacement of anything, you could disassemble, clean and inspect and find everything within overhaul limits, re-assemble and test and sign it off as overhauled. Lycoming for example does have an SB that has a list of items that must be replaced, but it’s an SB and therefore you aren’t required to follow it and most in truth don’t fully comply, not everyone replaces every hose for example https://www.lycoming.com/sites/default/files/attachments/Mandatory%20Parts%20Replacement%20at%20Overhaul%20and%20During%20Repair%20or%20Maintenance.pdf So the 500 hour cylinders should (may) be within overhaul limits along with the pistons, if so then they could be reused as is in an overhauled engine When I overhauled my IO-540 everything was within overhaul limits, but I replaced the jugs anyway, in hindsight I probably shouldn’t have. It was a 235 HP 540 and even at T/O power a 540 at 235 HP isn’t running hard at all so they tend to last a really long time Also there are a lot of commonly used terms like Remanufactured for example that just don’t exist to the FAA. ‘But a “top overhaul” isn’t an overhaul it’s a repair, but as everyone knows what top overhaul means marketing wise it a commonly used term, but I think as a mechanic I shouldn’t sign off in the logbook that I performed a top overhaul, but instead I replaced cylinders 1-4, pistons etc with whatever components were used, overhauled, repaired or new. Components are of course very frequently overhauled or repaired. To be overhauled the component has to meet the fits and limits as specified in that components overhaul manual. Bottom line, there can be a HUGE difference in a quality overhaul and one that isn’t but legally they both were an overhaul.

That’s not quite true. A 30 AH lead acid battery will deliver 30 AH before it’s dead, all batteries deteriorate over time so we capacity check our batteries yearly, when they only deliver 80% of rated capacity it’s time to replace it. Lithium is hands down better for electric drills etc though, charges faster, smaller, lighter many advantages. Where lithium does better is it’s ability to be deeply discharged for many cycles before they are worn out, but we don’t cycle our batteries they stay fully charged all the time so that’s not an advantage for us. So far as thermal runaway li-po is susceptible to it, but not LifePo4, and Earth-X is LifePo4. In my Mooney and I suspect others any weight I lose in battery is likely offset by the ballast I’d need to correct my CG, I’d probably be within limits from the forward CG shift without ballast, but fwd CG slows you down. I fly with 100 lbs in the baggage compt and believe it or not but it’s a little faster with the weight back there. Now if the battery were firewall mounted then I’d like to lose weight there, so take the Earth-x money and buy a lightweight starter.

Before you replace that starter read this article, specifically the paragraph entitled kickback https://www.aviationconsumer.com/uncategorized/starter-replacement-consider-weight-hot-starts/ It could be that your starter just broke for no reason, but sometimes when things break something else broke it, and if you don’t remedy the problem, the new part can be broken too, or other parts, like the ring gear.

I believe pushing down on the tail was a Cessna approved technique and Cessna ate some crow from the damage caused later. https://www.tennesseeaircraft.net/2016/11/13/cessna-approved-bad-training/

I stick my arm through the storm window to raise and lower the gear. I just don’t like climbing around on an airplane on jacks. I used to do a C-210, on that airplane I stood on a ladder and reached in to raise and lower the gear, a 210 on jacks is really wobbly. But I agree, I see nothing but disadvantages to having just barely enough weight to hold the tail down, before I decided to lift the nose I was going to install an anchor into the floor.

Glass isn’t really heavy, it’s the resin that adds weight. A “proper” hand laid glass layup and the resin squeeged out isn’t all that heavy. Yes carbon fiber is lighter but most of it is marketing, like Titanium is lighter than steel, but if aluminum can do the job Ti isn’t really much if any lighter, but it sure does market well. Glass gets heavy if mat is used and in particular if a chopper gun is used, but nothing wrong with glass and unlike carbon there isn’t an issue with corrosion.

I’d check timing too, make sure the mag(s) are operating properly in case it fired way early and that was from kick back.

Apparently in this forum software it’s neither a post or thread or reply. It’s a topic but whatever it doesn’t matter. Forum software I’m used to we sent each other a PM for private message, but here people use the abbreviation DM, what’s a DM? Same thing I’m sure just a different name

I was in Albany Ga then. Dive tanks don’t use a CGA 540 valve like our bottles do, so unless someone has an adapter they can’t fill you either, and most would want something stupid like a VIP, and you don’t take one of our valves out as easily as you do a SCUBA valve. Any tech diving is done with the European DIN valve. I’m in or near Cave Country so I know most of the dive shop owners so I’m sure I could work something out if I had to, but honestly all you need to fill your own is a simple hose, you don’t need gauges or anything, both tanks use the same valve But for me it’s all irrelevant as I’ve been retired for 6 years or so and unless someone has a heart attack or something my O2 system will continue to gather dust in the wall locker because I don’t fly that high anymore, maybe one day I may visit where it’s needed but it’s not around here. If I were to start using O2 for some reason I’d get a couple of tanks and fill my own and if I was really hard core I’d get a Haskell compressor, tech divers salavate over Haskell’s, particularly for Helium as ultra pure Helium ain’t cheap.

It can be more than that. My local Airgas place, the only source for O2 absolutely refused to fill my tank without a prescription, as they said it was illegal and then when I got the prescription refused to fill any tank without a medical valve for breathing purposes stating liability. ”medical grade” oxygen which I think we have established isn’t a thing but it’s classified as a drug by the FDA so Airgas would be selling me a drug without a prescription https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC9575339/#:~:text=Medical grade oxygen is classified,saturation while breathing atmospheric air. Local FBO did have a cascade of I believe 6 welding tank bottles and would fill the bottle for $50 but you had to leave it and come back the next day. They obviously didn’t want to fill little portable bottles but would I guess service aircraft, but as this was South Georgia not many had any real need for O2. I had a need to fill the bottle multiple times as I was doing engine performance testing up to FL250 so I got a hose and filled it from welding tanks we had at the plant, didn’t have any other choice really.

I’ve never seen a tank emptied to be filled, and I’ve never seen one smelled for acetylene. Only way that could happen is in the torch, which could happen if the regulator could allow back flow, which unless it’s broken it can’t, and if it broken in a way that could allow back flow then it wouldn’t regulate. The idea of acetylene in an O2 bottle is terrifying, the explosion would be catastrophic, I’m talking HUGE bomb. I think, am almost certain that Acetylene under pressure may go off just from pressure. I had never thought about acetylene getting into an O2 bottle, surely that never happens or we would have read about the deaths? I’m 99% sure Acetylene is stored in a tank filled with balsa wood and soaked with Acetone because the gas under pressure would explode, that’s what I was told anyway just as I was told to never lay the bottle down, maybe old wives tales, but in the oil field we treated Acetylene bottles like pet snakes. I had backflow preventers on my torch to keep the gas out of the lines but never consider the bottle https://osha.oregon.gov/OSHARules/interps/valve.pdf Years ago as an oilfield welder we would take a rose bud adjusted neutral and fill an open piece of drill pipe with O2 and Acetylene mix and standing aside ignite it, even in a completely open section of pipe with zero restriction, the explosion had to be heard to be believed. I’ve dumped plenty of SCUBA tanks to change mixes, it’s noisy, takes longer than you would think and the valve gets extraordinarily cold. Good shops have a muffler they put on the tank or the noise would drive you out of the shop. I can’t imagine doing that with O2, the fire hazard of a nearly pure O2 environment would be insane. Think Apollo 1. I would hope that if Acetylene contamination was possible that they would test for that just Like I used to test for O2 and Helium and later CO after some cave divers died in Mexico because the wrong compressor oil was used in the compressor.

Instead of block ice which fills the cooler with water that has to be emptied, try freezing a couple of milk jugs. Yes there has to be some water in the cooler to work of course but when the milk jugs melt they keep the water in the jug, so you don’t have to drain the cooler, just take the jugs out and put them back in the freezer for next time, even if you carry them home if transported in a cheap styrofoam cooler there won’t be much melt at all. In the boat my Fridge / freezer had “cold plates” two big stainless steel plates filled with Eutetic fluid, theory was you used Solar power generated from panels to freeze these plates and the compressor didn’t run at night and the cold plates kept things frozen over night, it worked very well. It’s usually salt and water but mine had water and diluted anti-freeze. What made it “better” than plain water was it was way colder. A very dilute solution of RV antifreeze and water that froze say at close to 0 degrees in the jugs and the cooler ought to supercharge the B cool, most freezers can easily go to just below 0 pretty easy. RV antifreeze as it’s not poisonous but regular car antifreeze is, beside RV antifreeze is cheap.

I can’t follow what you posted but someone else told me, it’s under moderation actions at the top, not the three dots where you delete a post from

A post yes, but how do you delete a thread?

This link says Cermanil works in everything except Mooney’s. What’s different with Mooney’s? https://www.aviationconsumer.com/maintenance/cerminil-or-not/

What’s incorrect about it? He had it borescoped only because of the high metals, and as far as the logbook entry if he’s a Savvy follower he doesn’t allow any logbook entries, only stickies he keeps in a shoe box, that allows him to dispose of any entries that don’t enhance sales value after one year. Sure a borescope would find it as does a compression test usually, and only a fool would buy an airplane without scoping it, but what does that have to do with this case where the engine is operating fine, without excess oil consumption and the only indicator was high chrome? Most don’t scope unless there is a problem, just like this time. Without the high chrome he wouldn’t have scoped and if he didn’t scope he wouldn’t have known, until or unless there were symptoms. I bet that corrosion pitted cylinders aren’t uncommon at all. I’m not saying they don’t decrease the value of the aircraft, I think they do, but if it were me, I’m not so sure that I would replace them now for that reason. Its sort of like a gear up, yes it decreases the value of the aircraft, but in truth the aircraft is often in better condition after one. Which is sort of a moot point, because Lycoming cylinders aren’t available for two years, and I don’t know if I would put ECI ones on myself with the current ones working fine, just because Lycoming cylinders are I believe the gold standard, ECI maybe not. But I think I would get a set of Lycoming cylinders on order because if nothing else I don’t think they would be hard to sell when you get them two years from now. I wonder if these cylinders could be nickel plated? They seem to work much better than chrome? By nickel I mean nickel / ceramic by whatever name it’s given