Fritz1

check as stated by 47U, if SOS dead think about a slick start booster, 3-4 times the bang of SOS, I had a dead SOS on my G-model once upon a time, replaced slick start, fired within one blade cold or hot

Most likely boost pump shaft o ring, a lot of overhaulers have them in stock, my boost pump started leaking a bit one day last summer and seized at the next start the next day, fortunately in front of my own hangar, no start, my A&P said these pumps are good for about 2000h, mine had 1850h, took about 3h to replace

yep, it is that time of the year, if running an entire tank on high through the system on the ground while squeezing a copious amount of fluid into the non-flowing panel does not fix it a purging pot is required, might be best to contact CAV aerospace to find a shop that has one, nothing but a brake bleeding pot hoked up tho that particular panel, but have to find a panel connector, if you are anywhere close to CAV aerospace, let's say within non stop range the simplest way to fix this might just be going there and let them check out the entire system, most likely the membrane in this panel is just dried out and you need to run and squeeze in lots of fluid to make that panel flow again, then running each pump for 5 min on the ground on high will keep the membrane moist and all panels will kick in with 3 min when you need them

you might want to write letters to eligible J owners, the serial numbers of all Mooneys ever built can be found on the web, then you can look the owners up on the FAA website, 100 letters typically trigger one response, I get letters like that from brokers a couple of times per year. A letter from a private buyer is viewed differently and might nudge an owner to respond who is just thinking about it, I keep fingers crossed

parts are generally available in the US, it may take some resourcefulness calling the major service centers and also salvage places, there are parts that are notoriously unavailable, e.g. the no back spring for the gear actuator, arguable whether a large quantity of those had to be replaced and some turbo exhaust clamps, a general problem and not just a Mooney problem, soo there are airplanes where parts are more readily available, the question then becomes what constitutes the allure of a Mooney to you, one way to find out, just fly one, if you are hooked you may be ready to go the extra mile to source the parts

all good calls, discovery process, reading for sale ads and logbooks for a while does not cost anything and gives you a wealth of information, most important thing is to find out what you really want, this may change during the discovery and the whole process may take a couple of months, enjoy the journey!

wow, sounds like you got it under control now, I got my cowl off and will give the turbo a good wiggle and will see how it spins, your video was scary, 1650 dF is still a tad high for TIT and the probes tend to read up to 100 dF low before they fail completely, might be a good idea to test the probe while the turbo is out, I had a KS probe and that failed within 300h, got about 80h on the Alkor now and that still looks good, think going above 1600 dF really burns these probes up fast

put a wrench on the waste gates shaft and make sure it moves freely, lube waste gate shaft with mouse milk at every oil change, find out what was done during annual that might have anything to do with what you are experiencing, and while you are at it inspect turbo transition weld in exhaust with mirror from backside

seasonal, I fly the Bravo to Montana of over X-mas, stop in Piere SD, they keep the lights on for us, heated hangar $50/night, very friendly family run FBO, Bozeman $300/night use one night before flying home, Jet Aviation, I am there 3x a year typically 100% personnel turnover per year, bottom line price for winter hangars can be all over the place, $200/night for ROA on Thanksgiving is not really terrible, but stiff, maybe ask how much they want for parking it outside with engine heater and a cabin heater plugged in, any frost wipes off easily with TKS fluid.

sounds like something is going on around the left side of the windshield and the windshield retainer, but maybe also bottom edge of pilot window, if no water trails evident dust the suspect area with baby powder on the inside and spray with hose on the outside

sounds like baffles, make sure they press against the cowl, don't count on ram air pressure to close the baffles, might as well swap CHT probes and clean probe connectors just to be sire they are reading right

As A64 said the stripper is the problem, under no circumstances must that stuff be vaporized, applying by hand and staying away from seams and carefully removing by hand is extremely time consuming, at the MBB military aircraft shop in Manching Bavaria we had a CO2 blasting apparatus, worked very well but prohibitively expensive for small aircraft, when I had the Bravo painted I insisted that the stripper not be vaporized, hard to tell if they did or not, paint shop better be visited at least once a week to see what is going on, good paint work is hard to come by because it is hard and extremely labor intensive

no speed gain or weight savings, I had a G-model painted by now defunct Mod Works in 2000 and I had to twist their arm not to strip it, the paint was just worn, nothing was flaking, no adherence problem, that airplane still flies today with the same paint job and looks good, nothing coming off, you are limited to the original graphics though, when I had the Bravo painted in 2018 I did not have that option, paint was coming off in lots of places partially due the TKS fluid creeping under the paint, bottom line if your paint is not chipping off, not stripping is an option, why disturb primer that has been on there doing its job for 30 or 40 years

lots of facets, a turbo with TKS is able to do things that the n/a aircraft without TKS is not able to do, i.e. climb over a lot of weather and in particular icing, the question then becomes how important is it to be able to do these kinds of things, best way to find out might be to talk to one of the dealers and test fly aircraft, Jimmy Garrison at GmaxAmerican, Richard Similie at Thunderbird and Mark Wood at Delta Aviation, as a serious and funded buyer you might just offer to pay for the test flight which they will most likely decline or credit to a purchase. Once you have experience the smooth and solid climb of a turbo going through 14,000 ft the risk is you might want one. Buyer beware!

Sorry to see that much aggravation, airplane damaged, trip derailed, repair may take a while, I have bought two gear legs, one for my G-model way back when, my own FBO wrecked it and repaired it, the other one when I bought the Bravo 7 years ago, part of the pre purchase. A lot has been written about this, there is no easy way out. Line personnel especially at large FBOs often has a turnover of 100% per year. Therefore avoid towing with a tug whenever possible, especially pushing backward, park so that the airplane does not have to be moved if possible. If towing unavoidable, talk to the line service person, give him a tip, that makes you less of a moper, a make him touch the left gear leg tube and feel that there is no dent. Explain that the repair is somewhere between $4k and $5k and nobody wants to go there.

tightening those connecting wires between the metal baffles will help, check the rubber baffling all around and don't count on ram air closing anything, the rubber has to press against the cowl, all small losses add up, check where the intercooler duct connects to the intercooler, lots of ram air leaks out, use hi temp RTV, seal any leaks around the oil cooler with hi temp RTV, factory baffling has large holes around the starter, step by step CHTs and oil temp will come down

I had a sagging tweed headliner and sprayed 3M trim adhesive behind it with a hypodermic needle, got rid of the sagging, not perfect but quick and painless

figured it out and ordered the Honeywell 1SE1 with pigtails as a replacement for the obsolete throttle boost pump switch, $80 at Skygeek

Removed dead throttle boost pump switch yesterday, Honeywell ZS-1009 with pigtails which is obsolete and unavailable, have Honeywell 11SM244-T which I had bought according to the Bravo parts catalog a while ago, mounting holes fit, but does not have pigtails and is overall smaller in size and does not appear to be sealed as well as the old switch, What is the

strange, but my POH says zero indication gives you 1.5 gal usable in TKS tank

the sender float tends to get stuck when the engine is not running, however, when you look at the TKS fluid level chart in the POH supplement you also realize that that you have more in the tank than the display shows, display zero means that you still have about 1.5 gal, think this is a safety feature, display is zero in icing means you have to get out within this logical second because you have 45 min left at low flow at best, 20 min at high flow

watching the drip profile on the ground you may realize that the tail gets much more fluid per foot than the wing, this is required due to the sharper radius, gut feel the horizontal tail gets about the same amount of fluid as the entire wing, I have never seen any ice accumulation on the horizontal stab with the system primed and running, occasional patches on the wings mostly around the stall triggers though, once the system is primed and running you can cycle between low and off to stretch the fluid and watch the accretion rate, those sports around the stall triggers are hard to get rid of, typically I run the system down in summer doing monthly priming runs, right now it sits at 2 gal, will top it off in the next week or so to start the season with mostly fresh fluid, I would not want to run the pumps dry, think the POH supplement for the TKS says not to do that

watching the drip profile on the ground you may realize that the tail gets much more fluid per foot than the wing, this is required due to the sharper radius, gut feel the horizontal tail gets about the same amount of fluid as the entire wing, I have never seen any ice accumulation on the horizontal stab with the system primed and running, occasional patches on the wings mostly around the stall triggers though, once the system is primed and running you can cycle between low and off to stretch the fluid and watch the accretion rate, those sports around the stall triggers are hard to get rid of, typically I run the system down in summer doing monthly priming runs, right now it sits at 2 gal, will top it off in the next week or so to start the season with mostly fresh fluid, I would not want to run the pumps dry, think the POH supplement for the TKS says not to do that

suspecting a fuel flow imbalance a GAMI type lean test might provide clues if not done already, they describe it on their website, in a nutshell go to a power setting that cannot damage anything, let's say below 60%, maybe 24" 2400 rpm start leaning in 0.5 gph increments and record fuel flow, TIT, EGTS, CHTs, find and record peak EGT for each cylinder, I did that with my wife before I installed the GAMIs, I said the numbers and she wrote them into a table, my EDM 700 did not have a data logger, this will tell you something, a good peak EGT spread is below 0.5 gph, .3 gph is about as good as it gets, chances are there are several things going on, TIT reading low is very likely unless you replaced the probe since you owned the airplane, I replaced mine with an Alcor probe last summer, only the Alcor was available, the burnt KS probe read about 100 degrees low, think the Alcor is right on. My CHTs typically range between 350 and 380 dF in cruise, for quite a while #4 was my hottest cylinder, spent quite some time replacing worn baffle pieces and squeezing RTV into the last nook and cranny, all the little gaps add up, the Bravo engine pushes the parallel valve design to the limit and has nothing in common with the 541s used in Aerostars, Dukes and Navajos, this is a much heavier engine with cross flow heads and angle valves, think that engine is at least 50 lb heavier, the Bravo is nose heavy as it is so the 541 was not an option, properly set up the AF1B turns the Bravo into a magic carpet, you will figure it out and you are getting close

Spruce sells the sound ex material in different thickness, approved for cert aircraft, maybe go for the thinnest one to save weight, there are pre-cut sets for many aircraft types, buying by the roll is typically less expensive, make card board templates first and then cut insulation material with heavy pair of scissors