dzeleski

Alright for anyone following along... There was no air in the system, and the caliper pins and pressure plate were all perfectly free and clean. The issue ended up being the wheel fairing was installed incorrectly. This put pressure on the caliper and after the brake pressure was released the whole fairing acted as a giant spring and pushed the caliper away from the rotor. You can see in the photos how the fairing is touching the caliper, with the second photo you can see how both pads are nice and tight to the rotor after pressing the brake with the faring removed. After more carefully comparing it to the other main I could see that at least two washers were missing. Im not sure if they were dropped, forgotten, etc but I had a couple spare ones and popped them on. Mechanic is swinging by later to check my work and make sure hes happy with it but it was at least a simple issue. Thanks everyone for the tips and ideas!

That’s what I thought as well but using a small screw driver the pressure plate appears to move completely free on the pins. I’ll yank the wheel fairing tomorrow and take a closer look.

I come from a racing background as well and am very familiar with knockback, which is why floating multi piece rotors are lovely for brake feel. This isn’t knockback though, it retracts back to this position without moving the wheel. I also do not have any braking vibration or judder when braking. He seems to think it’s air, I’m personally not quite so sure. Comparing with the other wheel I can’t see anything obvious that it would be installed incorrectly. I’ll update this with what he says on Monday.

Ran down to the hangar. Caliper moves freely, as does the pad. Mechanic called me back and thinks there is air in the line. Hes gonna swing by on Monday and use a pressure bleeder. Ill keep this updated if that fixes it in case anyone comes across this in the future.

Ty, ive got that and will get some on them.

Thats what I thought, that parts diagram just shows a normal caliper with slide pins. Ill see if I can get a small pry bar in there and gently try and see if the pad is stuck on the pins.

Hi all, had my local shop swap out my right main tire the other day and now my right brake has significant free play in it before it grabs. Basically I need to push the pedal further before it starts to brake. Once it does braking action feels normal. Looking at the brake caliper I see that the outer pad has a 1/8 inch gap where its just not touching the rotor, that correlates to the larger pedal travel. Once brake pressure is released the gap slowly increases to what you see in the attached photos. No fluid leaks. Any ideas on what is going on here? Something assembled incorrectly? Slide pins stuck? Edit: Fixed:

KISP still has a working one on 24 and 6. That being said my audio panel has it muted lol

It really seems like people just cant accept being second sometimes. Same goes for driving, god forbid you accelerate from a red light the knuckle head next to you thinks its a race. The other day I picked up a friend at N12 to fly back home. I was slightly ahead of a turbo prop(PC-12) and technically had the right of way into the downwind. I made a radio call, and he then called similar. Looked down at my iPad with ADSB, clicked to see his airspeed which was far higher then mine. I just told them they can go ahead and ill do a 360 off to the west for spacing. I was already late getting there by almost 40 min, whats another 2 minutes waiting for a 360 to complete. After landing the pilot walked over to me and said hello/thanks. I get the impression most people wouldnt have done that since they were "first" but that airplane uses more fuel during startup and taxi then my entire flight from NY to NJ.

Been waiting for this for quite a long time, adds a few awesome features http://forums.avidyne.com/10-3-released_topic2394.html https://pilotsupport.avidyne.com/kb/article/767-ifd-5xx-4xx-software-update-10-3-0-2-update-instructional-video-for-loading/ FMS - Add support for non-AR procedures containing RF legs * - Add visual approaches * - Add support for oceanic navigation mode - Add Enroute VNAV * - Add aural alert for waypoint passage * - Add ability to set OBS on IFDs without a radio - Add OBS selected course digital readout - Allow window constraints to be edited * - Fix virtual keyboard display when editing user waypoints - Allow uploading/downloading user waypoints from/to CSV file (via Mx Mode) * Map - Fixed map popups - Formatting for long METARs - Changed ETE to be a live value instead of a snapshot - Placement error when map is in forward view - Datalink - Change datalink CAS message from "Not Rcvd" to "Overdue" - Support ADS-B Icing, Lightning, Cloud Tops, Turbulence * - Charts - Center aircraft diagrams on the aircraft * - Add option to enable/disable charts (via Mx Mode) * - Certified TAWS / HTAWS - Support for Hi-Res terrain (requires hardware upgrade) - Add power line map layer - Modify radar display to use the Setup page distance/speed units settings Aux - New Setup Page - Support up to 10 user profiles * - Allow WiFi configuration completely from flight mode - Com Preset List - Assume decimal point when setting a frequency * - Fix bug that allowed entry of invalid 8.33KHz channels in frequency list - Calculators/Timers - Assume decimal point when entering air data calculator baro setting * - Add weight calculator - Allow entry of negative temperature values in calculators - Fix trip timer to stop counting upon landing * - Sys page - Display IFD serial number on SYS page - Display fuel flows for each engine in a twin engine aircraft * - Remove AUX button coloring when advisory has been acknowledged * - Fix ADS-B station reception rate calculation - Fix checklist TOC item not being unchecked when subordinate item is edited General - Add ability for one IFD to tune the radio of the other IFD - Dismiss frequency list after a period of inactivity * - Remove WiFi Allow/Ignore dialog on power up * Interfaces - Add datablock to display AGL altitude from a radar altimeter - Support remote mount Becker BXT65xx transponder - Fixed IFD network so it doesn't advertise internet access * - Allow IFD to display data from a portable ADS-B In device * - Allow IFD to be an ADS-B position source for GDL-88 * - Improved gnd/alt transition logic for AXP322 with squat switch - Fix bluetooth keyboard swap key so holding it down sets 121.5 * Maintenance Mode - Add ownship icon for canard aircraft * - Add PIN notice saying you don't actually need one - Fix places where PIN protected changes don't persist - Fix wording in bluetooth pairing instructions - Add various settings to support new functions (RF Legs, VNAV, Weight Calculator, Disabling Charts)

Yeah I have this same install but I have no idea what auto slew means. Are you referring to the ability of the IFD to automatically sequence from GPS to VLOC? or GPS to LPV? As in you have to manually rotate the CDI knob to move it to the NAV type? If thats the case do you see a GPS -> VLOC or GPS -> LPV type of indication in the upper right corner when you load and activate an approach? Auto tuning needs to be turned on in the settings of the IFD. And specific criteria need to be met in order for it to work. https://pilotsupport.avidyne.com/kb/article/542-Approach-Procedures/ "AUTOMATIC MODE SWITCHING † Automatic mode switching to VLOC (e.g. GPSVLOC transition) including automatically setting the inbound course, will occur if the capture criteria defined above are met and the primary nav frequency can be auto-identified. If auto tuning has not been enabled on the setup pages, or a station cannot be identified, automatic mode switching will not occur." "On ILS/LOC approaches (Vectors-to-Final transition or the full published procedure), the IFD will automatically toggle the nav mode to VLOC when all of the following conditions have been met for 5 consecutive seconds:  The next leg or the active leg terminates at the FAF  The aircraft is on the front side of the approach  The aircraft course is within 15 degrees of the final approach course  Cross track deviation is less than half a dot  The correct station is tuned and identified"

No toes stepped, you told me about Bill to begin with and have way more experience in this game then I do I will also agree his DPE is tough but if you pass you know you actually passed. My IR ride was honest but to the book.

Side note, reach out to @Parker_Woodruff for an insurance quote. He beat Avemco for me by quite a bit and Parker is awesome to work with.

I personally use Bill Jensen, just finished up my IR with him and he was great to work with. There is also Jack Napoli who I have talked to on the phone and seems like a nice guy but he is based out east and Bill was closer to ISP where my plane is. I can PM you either of their contact info if interested. Definitely get a good checkout by a shop that knows Mooneys. I use AirMods in NJ and they have always done a really good job with their work. Missing logs that old shouldnt be that large of an issue if the damage is repaired correctly and since its such an old repair and flying since then it should be "more" ok. Still needs to be inspected though. I am 5'10" with shorter legs (31" inseam) I can reach the pedals without issues and you wont have any issues seeing over the cowl. Im based at ISP if you want to checkout a J model shoot me a DM and ill gladly have you swing by my hangar.

Sorry my terminology probably was incorrect. I dont mean everything needs to be retested just the pitot system itself is working correctly. Either way I dont believe thats something a pilot can sign off on.

The blockage is most likely in the pitot tube itself so I would remove it and the line and clean it that way. In short, remove the cover, remove the line, and blow compressed air in reverse. That being said if I recall the regs correctly from memory the pitot system will need to be re certified since it will be opened up. So you probably want someone to re certify the system after you take it apart to be legal and safe.

Agreed. I bought at 80 hours and thought I would basically immediately start my IR. Didnt happen, it was too many things going on at once between learning a new airplane, learning everything about owning, trying to get a hangar, buying all the little things you had no idea you even needed, etc. Doing another rating at the same time was just too much for me while also still needing to work my day job. Then COVID happened and pushed my IR back even further(I did finally finish it if anyone was following along). Finish your PPL in whatever you are currently using and then buy. Bang up someone elses bird before you do it to your own, Mooneys dont like landing hard. Also contact @Parker_Woodruff hes always been awesome to work with and I have never had a single issue with him or his company. Get a quote now and understand all your costs before you are committed. Start calling airports for tie downs or hangars now, if you are gonna be tied down consider the cost of a really good cover as well.

Couple things you can try, dim the screen a bit if you can, turn off as many map layers as possible and select them when needed, traffic specifically is expensive turning off distant traffic can be helpful as well, finally dont leave it on the glare shield or anywhere direct sunlight can hit it if you stop for fuel or something. I point my left knee vent up towards the ipad on my yoke and that general keeps it from over heating. I have not had an overheat message in a very long time.

Is it flexible or brittle? It does appear to look like a coating failure of some kind. Yank the top plugs and spin the engine so each cylinder gets to the bottom of its stroke and get a borescope in there. This is not an aviation plating company but the info is still applicable. https://www.millennium-tech.net/plating.php Why do coatings peel, and is that normal? Peeling coatings can be caused by many factors. When the coating is applied properly the nickel will bond stronger to the aluminum than the aluminum bonds to itself or about 25,000 psi. In other words, the coating has higher tensil strength than the aluminum does. Because of this bond, when seizure occurs and plating comes off, there is often aluminum that comes off with it. Coatings will most often peel as a result of substandard materials being used, or when a processing error occurs. Is the coating sprayed on, and how thick can it be put on? No. The coating is an electroplated process that uses an electrical current to adhere the nickel and silicon carbide molecules to the aluminum. The process does involve dipping the entire part into the plating solution, and an electrical current must be present to start the plating process. Coating thickness varies with each cylinder and is determined by the amount of time it is in the tank as well as the amount of power used. The industry standard of plating thickness is between .003" to .005" with a useful limit of .040" thick. Applying the coating more than .040" is possible, however the coating becomes erratic if over this thickness. Another side effect is that the internal stress in the coating may cause it to crack when exceeding .040" thick.

I understand im just providing some context for them. There is this: But to me since the kit is not available a good amount of time is involved to fabricate the antenna into the dorsal. It also oddly goes against artexes manual stating that the antenna needs to be vertical. The only non whip style antenna that I am aware of from my research is this: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/pages/av/antenna_elt/114-042-600.p

I had an Artex ELT installed with a whip antenna that is mounted right around where the rib of the vertical stab starts to bulge out. There is also a switch and light installed on the panel for it. Cost was $916 for the ELT, $1000 to remove the old one and install the old one (6 hours of labor charged). I have had no issues with it so far.

Dont have friends with more capable airplanes either. And definitely dont go flying with them. Ignorance is bliss in this regard lol. If I didnt meet a few people with twins or newer Mooneys I dont think the upgrade bug would have ever hit.

Ill add my .02 as a J owner.... The J is a 4 cylinder with a 25k overhaul. The K+ are all nearly double that price for an OH. Do I want a K, M, or R? Yes and maybe one day. I've thought about upgrading probably 100 times since I bought it but every time I realize I dont really need that performance. I regularly take 4 people and 50gals for lunch or dinner at or near sea level (<5000 feet DA). I also regularly take overnight trips with 2-3 people and bags with 50-64 gals. I plan on flying down to the Bahamas this year after mooney summit, ill hopefully be going to Osh in a few weeks, and ill also hopefully be getting out to Aspen in the fall (with mountain training) as my SOs family has a house there. All of this will be done with 2 people, 2 cats and various levels of fuel to make it happen. What im getting at is if the J covers 90% of your needs and a commercial ticket or waiting for the right weather/air covers the 10% is it actually worth an airplane that costs far more then 10% of the cost of a good J? My IR checkride is next week and maybe flying into actual (14 hours of actual so far) more often will change my mind on this but at the moment I cant push that much more money into an airplane that I wont use to its full capacity. For context my J is an early 1977 and has 1009lbs of useful, dual G5, GFC500, IFD 440. I would have to spend a significant amount (50-100k) more to get an equally capable K, M, R especially in the avionics department.

There is always some amount of "air" in the reservoir but the air is above the fluid so it doesnt go into the system. Its basically just a power bleeder most likely. Pressurize the container and it forces fluid out the lines as if you were lightly pressing the brakes. Most of these systems have fluid that they add via siphon as fluid leaves the reservoir but as long as you dont let it get empty you will not add air to the system. In fact there needs to be an air gap in the reservoir or as the system gets hot the fluid will expand and start to drag the brakes. I've seen several motorcycles at the track get their brakes stuck on because the owner added fluid to the very top before a track day. Fluid expands and the brakes stick on as the pressure builds. This is for cars but it does the same thing: https://www.motiveproducts.com/collections/import-power-bleeder-kits/products/0100-european-bleeder

An off the shelf gauge and sensor is gonna cost at least 400-500 bucks and then labor. You could check with some of the aircraft parts resellers that sell used or refurbished parts, someone might have one sitting on a shelf somewhere. If you are planning a panel rebuild one thing you could consider is a JPI or similar. You have room for it on your current panel under the gear switch. Way more expensive then reasonable cost and parts might still be a problem but its an option. Cheapest option is to find the part number you need and call some salvage/used parts suppliers. 100% give Lasar a call, Dan was really helpful when I needed an oil temp gauge and directed me to Preferred air parts which had one on the shelf and it has been working perfectly ever since.