Planegary

Was at dexter Mo about 5 weeks ago. Restaurant on the field for bkfst and lunch and 100LL was $4.55 gal. Nearby in Kennet fuel was about the same price. Both are in the boot heel of Mo

Check out defuniak springs 54J. Northeast of destin. Have not been to defuniak myself but I have been to Destin numerous times for work and the stories about fees are correct. All I Am saying is to go in informed so you don’t get blindsided by fees

I wonder what it would take for the company to produce stiff leg mooneys again

That is kind of what I figured I just didn’t know if a normal life span of the steering truss was short due to the design or not since it looks like a concentration of weight and loading on a small component

That central shaft that I was talking about is on the steering linkage not the aileron shaft. I wish that the steering linkage was field repairable with a bushing rather than have to send it in to be rebuilt

I know that this is a rather open ended question but what kind of time between overhauls do you get out of the nose wheel steering linkage last? 1000 hrs? 1500 hrs? 2000 hrs? 2500 hrs? I woas looking at how small the structure and began thinking about the loads on the steering and began wondering

I wish that central shaft was repairable with a bushing replacement rather than send the unit in for overhaul. It would make the component much more field serviceable

Thanks. I was just assuming absolute worst case scenario to mentally prepare myself for whenever this does happen. Did they tell you the turn around time for overhaul of the steering horn?

I was talking about the steering horn assembly. Sorry for not identifying it properly. I guess my best bet is to start looking at salvage yards and hope I come across one of the lazar improved assemblies before I have to have one

To think further along in this vein whatever happened to the lazar improved steering knuckle setups. I don’t see them for sale on the website anymore. Do you send in your old one to have it rebuilt or is it just a pause in manufacturing for the improved one or does anybody know anything for sure? I’m sure in another couple of years I will need one of them and I am just trying to think ahead

I was thinking about how to repair something rather than throw something away since it looks like the part should have been an easy to replace component and not discard and replace the entire component much like the tie rods on a car. Just kinda thinking on print here

Doing my annual my mechanic told me that it looks like next year I will need a aileron link on the left side due to the heim joint starting to show a little slack. In looking at them I see that they are not replaceable on the tube and that you have to replace the entire tube. Is there any repair to put a new joint into the tube? Is there any type of long term repair other than install a used unit? It seems that a nut could be welded onto the tube to provide threads for the female heim joint to screw into to be a more permanent fix. I’m sure I’m not thinking this out well enough but it seems there must be a long term repair

Thanks John, right now i have to determine is it the senders the gauges or the wiring or maybe the ground or contact point for the sending unit these questions should be answered this week during the annual. The gauges are working and indicating just not as well as i would like and i would prefer them to be more accurate.The one I cleaned the other day has been a LOT better so right now only one to focus on

Did the cleaning. One of the gauges work much more accurately. The other was no change so I got A 50% success rate out of it

Thanks I will do that today hope it helps

Hi again all I am coming up on my annual and was gonna try to see if i could find what makes the fuel gauges less accurate than I would like . At this time finances prevent any upgrades so I am looking for inexpensive fixes. Does anybody have the range that the fuel sending unit is supposed to work within from full to empty? if I check the wiring what plugs in back of the indicator should i be plugged into.I have the original garwin pack where I can pull each gauge out individually to test that gauges wiring. I am hoping to find maybe some poor connections or grounds since the gauges work just not like I would like to see (they neither read full) thanks in advance for the help it is all appreciated

I understand but on my plane it was from 1965 and the reading I had been doing was a little more current but this is what I needed. Info to see if I am not doing things properly or just using more current engine manufacturer information

Exactly how I have done it. On climb out I dial the prop til I see a movement and stop there but the instructor wanted the manifold at 25. I explained that in a minute it would be below 25 (I am naturally aspirated) but he wanted power reduced I explained that was a reduced power climb but I cannot for sure remember where / when I got the update to fly max not 25/25 just that it was mid 90’s. Anybody remember reading about it?

I was flying with a younger instructor the other day and he wanted me to pull my climb power back to 25/25. I read I believe in a Continental and Lycoming book to climb at firewall on settings back in the 90's. Have I missed an update or is it that this young guy got old info ? don't want to do anything wrong but I have been flying this way for years and I believe even the climb charts are for firewall power. Any input would be appreciated

What kind of heat treatment process are they using on these parts, annealing , tempering, I would be interested to know

Interested in the tug and headset. How long have you used them? You said both work as expected? Will it push a full E up a slope? Thanks

We had a couple of ladies that had started walking at our airport and had one plane do 2 go-arounds. They thought he was flirting with them and that it was cute. After speaking to them and telling them what was going on , IE they were hard to see and the plane was trying to land and how dangerous it was they understood and quit walking the runway so this story at least has a happy ending

For anybody looking to fly into Searcy,ark KSRC the airport will have a $50 ramp fee for all planes and will not wave any fees for fuel purchase. They also will not have any additional services for transients and there is no taxi services there and the crew car availability is suspect. Fuel there is also one of the highest places in the state for a non controlled airport so always call ahead so you don’t get blindsided by some unexpected small town fees

You can also get the tub o towels at Harbor Freight if you want them immediately

Spray around the puckand after letting it set hit the hydraulic fitting with an air nozzle and maybe you can pop the puck out