201Steve

I’m pretty sure you/his ad means he has a new 40:1 set….. ya? It says 20:1 but I’m now aware of any kit that sold the 20:1 gear

Wow! Here’s your chance to buy a new gear set!! For the low low price of $5k!!!

I’ve had 4 “alternator failures”. First thing I’ve done is reset the alt field circuit breaker. It will reset the VR, either causing it to come back online (as indicated by voltage) or not. That gives you an idea. 3 of the 4 events was broken connectors on the back of the alternator. One the field wire and twice the field wire jumper. the fourth event, still broken wires, just way more tricky. I was convinced it was the VR going bad so I bought a Zefftronics VR (which by the way, their install instructions tell you exactly where to read resistance and voltage and what value it should be at each point if you want me to track it down for u). While installing, I had a sneaking suspicion about the canon plug that plugs into the VR. I disassembled the cannon plug on my back from underneath the panel (pain in ass) and voila- smoking gun. The field wire had chafed off insulation and was grounding against the wire shielding. I went ahead and used the new VR since I had it already, but I could have sent it back and re-used my original VR. Had I not been up there replacing the VR and taking the additional time to inspect the guts of the cannon plug, it would have been a nightmare never ending diagnostic. I was proud of my curiosity that day

After Jewel f’d up my engine, I asked Zephyr to re-overhaul it, he said “I can do whatever you want but I’d just be taking your money if you ask me to overhaul it again”. So they did an IRAN, basically doing all core engine work without fooling with the accessories again (Jewell sent those items to someone else anyway). To include line boring the case, overhauling the cylinders, new cam, new lifters. What else is there if everything else had been inspected and determined GTG?

Silver miner?!, weather station operator, mechanic, pilot, electrical engineer- what has Eric J not dabbled in? They all sort of made sense until this.

Mine does not. from memory of a previous part hunt. I think recommended by a msc

1ch116-6 down limit or p6-24014 or 1en1

Or they don’t pay anything back. That’s another lawsuit over many years that would kick the can down the road.

If you’re looking for a place to save, this would be a good place. Can have them wire it so all you have to do is add servo later if u decide u want it. It’s only 180 hp and they are generally coordinated in cruise. I guess if I had it it’d be nice but I don’t miss not having it. Now auto trim? Game changer. Make sure u get the trim servo

I think I want some too. Gonna PM u Don

@William Munney I like your clean panel. Not overfilled w gadgetry. Not sure how I feel about the offset screen but I see what you’re doing.

I think I’d pick more than 1 of the options

How does one determine the existence of an inclusion? Just curious

If it’s already paint stripped, I can’t see a good reason why they wouldn’t (or at least on request) do that test as standard. It’s pretty easy to work with. Spray, wait, wipe, spray, wait, wipe.

envisioning how I’ve read that a factory reman is performed, they strip everything down, check it, throw it in a pile of good or not good, and then an entirely new engine is built of from a pile of random “good parts” I can’t imagine anything must stay together so long as they “check good”. A new pushrod and a new rocker, for example, just met each other on assembly. They haven’t even exchanged phone numbers before they start banging each other. just my internet guess

Here’s a question for you (spring loaded), how much pressure is required to keep the nose down in an initial climb with full trim up? That’s probably the most extreme scenario for control pressure.

What’s your method for this? Set up to desired speed manually, and then just click on the AP without any preselections, then select the desired horizontal source? pitch vertical and selected horizontal? (I wish pitch could be selected with its own button like any of the other settings)

For crying out loud!!!!

I know there’s a million page thread out there on this, but since Garmin released the gain addendum to supposedly correct this issue, what’s everyone’s result? I have found very little change. Everything works great on my AP except climbing through turbulence in ias mode. It will chase the speed by 10 knots. If bumpy, I initially climb in VSP. I had my avionics guys update the gain ad per the Garmin SB. No noticeable change.

5 days later still no pics = fake news

Pack and flight plan wherever you are. Even at the run up pad if missing a chart. Cellular-Worth it.

I was planning on a flight to Kansas City tomorrow about 900 NM and scrubbed it this afternoon for an airline ticket after discovering my personal minimums were forecasted to be exceeded. 60 kts on the nose. speed minimums. I refuse to travel at skyhawk speeds.

Yeah that’s what I did too.

How did you determine the 5%? Little sprinkle with your TLAR gauge?

I think you answered your own question. some folks on here will recommend some “Mooney value guide” that was built 3 years ago by a broker, but such as you say, it’s what someone is willing to pay given the market conditions. Value guides are good for stuff with no current comparables on the market. Since there are several, I’d take all the metrics into account (how long it’s sat, your desired sale speed,etc) and then price it plus or minus relative to the current field.