201Steve

Paging @M20Doc and others familiar with scoping cylinder walls. The metal I found in the filter is driving me crazy- what could it be?! So in addition to “just keep flying” I decided to pull the top cowling and top spark plugs to scope the cylinder walls. I used a vividia able scope with articulating Head, but sheesh it’s tougher than I thought. It’s challenging to identify abnormalcies through a tiny camera. Also, there is a hotspot on the camera lense that appears as an annoying big yellow dot in the middle. Anyway, I’ve edited down a short video and a couple still shots of something I found. Does this finding look consistent with broken ring, scoring, etc? I so wanted to see it with my eyes and feel it with my finger but I think I’m on to something. Can you confirm??? IMG_8837.MOV

Interesting, thanks!

Hey y’all. I’ve got some bug guts in my pitot tube. Couldn’t quite get it all out. What’s the procedure for pulling out and cleaning? I pulled the 4 screws and dropped it down to check it out over weekend. Looks like need to disconnect the heat wire. Is there anything tricky or sensitive to be cautious of? Any tips to speak of. Obviously never done it so checking my bases

I use a GE bulb for now. It’s just a conversation. I already apologized for hijacking an otherwise helpful post. This isn’t an attack on James, Or Whelen. Matter of fact, from a business standpoint, good for them for getting the government to regulate light emitting diodes. I’m not mad at them, if you have the resources to squash your competition by regulation, you’re working the available system. However, as a certificated aircraft owner who’s affected by egregious over regulation, I think I’m well within my bounds to at minimum challenge the sensibility of FAA over regulation by way of a conversation. Again, probably a little over the top to hijack your post. Next time I’ll make my own thread but I’ve learned some things from its’ discussion. take care James

By the way, sorry for hijacking your otherwise very helpful and informative post to complain.

What is the published spec? “GE Model xxx”? Or is it a General type of bulb cited? I’ve not seen what the ‘published spec’ Refers to. The mythical “aircraft quality part” thing gets me sometimes. I think it goes overboard and here’s my logic: Whelen makes light bulbs of all varieties. They’ve been making lightbulbs long before they started Making aircraft light bulbs. What kind of silly idea makes one think that they got better or worse at making light bulbs because they were putting it in an airplane? The application is the same. If I’m designing a light bulb for a police spotlight, I’m not making compromises like “Oh this is for finding bad guys at night and not going in an airplane so I’m going to make this one overheat and de-rate the power faster. But the airplane bulb, lets hire a new team of engineers to solve this problem.” They are going to produce the same quality of product at the rate that it’s possible across all its applications because, it’s the same application: It’s dark and I need light. That is comparing apples to apples. If you want to argue Chinese amazon over Whelen as a general brand, then we are talking about Glock vs Hi Point and that comparison isn’t unique to Aviation either.

Thanks fellas!

How dumb that the FAA approved these stupid things by issuing an STC. I know I’m beating a dead horse but I’ve been triggered. Lol. Nearly as dumb as the GD visor. But not quite.

Can anyone advise what the static RPM should be for a 77j with IO360-A1B6D ? Or where one would find the data? Thanks

Haven’t the diamond faced tappets been a very good alternative at a much cheaper cost?

I keep seeing this here and there, talking about a factory reman being the same price as overhaul, but from what I’m seeing, Jewell will overhaul my io360 for 16,000 and a factory reman from AirPower is $37k. That’s markedly different. What am I missing?

I did. Obviously won’t have it back for a bit, though.

Hey folks, Found some ferrous metal in my oil filter today. This is the first time I’ve seen any at all. 400 hrs on the motor. 77j with iO360. I’m not freaking out yet, but would like some perspective. The attached pic is everything I pulled out of the filter media. I got it back from annual 3 weeks ago, All was clear at that point. then I flew it to California and back to Georgia last week and put 35 hours on the airplane so I went for oil change today. Don’t know if the long, hard, hot, and high might have put it under more constant stress than usual, thus causing new wear?

Mike is a machine. He answers everyone’s emails and I don’t understand how. Lol

Lycoming Service Instruction 1425A Outlines the procedure if you want to take a look at it.

I’m not far from there. Send me a message.

Photo of the product. Do I need to buy an applicator gun/bottle or just use a spatula?

A quick search looks like it only comes in black. Have you heard of the same in white? Also, would you say one tube is enough for all windows and windshield?

I did a wet wash on Saturday and just for fun, I shoved my finger into the sidewall at the floor/ base of the rear seat to check for moisture and there was some. The sealant on the outside of my windows is looking like it's seen better days. What are you guys using for sealant on the outside of windows/windshield?

Eric, I’m not asking them to diagnose, I’m not asking them to sign an inspection, I’m asking them to perform a procedure that’s been standard practice per the manufacturer since the 1980’s. Purchase Order: Clean my valve guide. Mechanics Entry: cleaned valve guide per SI1425a. So, liability wise, I’d say your well within a protection envelope. Practicality wise, there is such an extreme disparity between a cylinder overhaul and a valve guide cleaning. You can’t rightfully say that a $200 job isn’t worth trying before immediately attacking it with a $2,500 cylinder overhaul. For something you can physically verify the success of upon completion, it is a crime not to know about that option or perform that option. Again, this is not some shade tree procedure. It’s what the manufacturer says should be done. In black and white.

That’s the plan Clarence

Check out Lycoming SI 1425A. It’s not what most people think when talking about rope trick, and apparently with the correct valve spring tool, you don’t actually need to use the rope here. But it’s been a common procedure item published by Lycoming originally in the early 80’s but of course 78% of mechanics are clueless about it.

I am about to loose my mind over the insanity of the maintenance community. I caught the symptoms of a sticky exhaust valve on my IO-360 very early. Over the last year, I was seeing slightly elevating levels of Nickel in my oil analysis, with the last reading showing 10ppm. Fast forward to last week, I was having slight morning sickness over the duration of 3 starts. Roughness lasted approx 30 seconds. Shot a boroscope into all cylinders. Arrived at #4 and found it stuck open a little bit. PER LYCOMING SERVICE INSTRUCTION 1425A, they outline exactly the STANDARD procedure to first address this issue. Via the "rope trick" drop the valve into the cylinder, clean the valve guide with a hand reamer, and reinstall. A 45 minute job at best for someone who's experienced with it. Please... someone explain to me why the 4 mechanics I've talked to have never done this before? Want to immediately pull the cylinder? WHY! I explain to them that Lycoming addresses this in detail, as to what to do FIRST. Exhaust valve sticking may be the most common valve train item... yet they don't even know how to do the simplest of procedures. Mike Busch theory aside, it is a LYCOMING recommendation. It's not some back woods remedy. All of that said, I can't deal. I'm ordering the stuff to do it myself with supervision. I'm pretty sure the reamer needed is 0.4995-0.5005 (.5000) for my engine. Looking at https://www.mcfarlaneaviation.com/articles/valve-guide-cleaning-reamers-for-lycoming-engines/ Can anyone confirm this is correct size before I order? Also, any other suggestion on what tools to have handy in the process would be great! 77J Lycoming IO-360 A1B6D

I am sending you a direct message

io360 here. I whole heartedly believe the oil filter could easily go 100 hours. It holds 1/4 quart maybe when cold. I would put good money on zero difference in an otherwise identical lifetime comparison with one changing filter every swap, and one changing filter every 2 or 3 swaps. With a quick drain valve, it wouldn’t even need to be de-cowled and you could change just the oil in 5 minutes of labor. That said.... it’s my airplane and I enjoy treating it like a baby, so I change it with the oil.