PT20J

It’s because FAA HQ delegates authority to the regions. But in the case of LASAR, if everyone that had institutional knowledge is gone and the new mechanics are just learning by reading the old paperwork, I might not want to be first in line to have them rebuild my parts. There’s an old saying, “The pioneers get the arrows.”

The original had notches. The idea is that you grab the finger hole and rip it off in an emergency. It will come off easier if the holes are notched to the edge of the plastic. The original was pretty thin making it easy to remove (and easy to crack around the holes). The Plane Plastics part may be thicker making it even more important to notch the holes.

You mean like house paint. If it fails, the manufacturer will replace the paint. The labor is on you.

The paperwork probably weighs more than the part

As I understand it, only the FAA determines airworthiness and if there is no AD you are under no obligation to adhere to a recall. The recall is primarily to provide legal cover for the manufacturer in the event of an accident and subsequent lawsuit. But I’m not an attorney or an expert on airworthiness.

No, but it sounds like LASAR failed a FSDO audit of their quality system. If they can’t produce records that show that all the steps were followed to repair each part, then there is no way to know if they were repaired properly and so the parts would be not be considered airworthy until inspected.

The standard Mooney isn’t any more likely to hit a prop on pavement or grass than any other airplane. The risk taxiing on grass is hitting a hole you couldn’t see. Here is the CAR 3 requirement.

The most interesting part of the AD is that it states that Garmin has sold at least 5900 certified GFC 500s. Probably well over 6000 by now.

M20P or M20T however you want to pronounce it is appropriate.

That is the POH At least it’s in my 231 POH.

It's no the same old LASAR: new owners, new location, new staff, new FSDO.

Ah, my bad. Somehow I mistakenly thought it was a 55. I just reread the original post and I have no idea why I thought it was a 55 since it clearly says 30. Sorry for the confusion.

Good point. Does your 55 have a flight director? I was thinking that you’d need the GI 275 to make the FD work, but I think the FD is optional on the S-Tec 55.

You’d have to check the IPC or other F owners to know if the threaded rods are original.

It’s all in the manual:

If you get a GI 275 you have more upgrade possibilities in the future. I believe that the GI 275 can also replace the attitude indicator for the S-TEC, so you could get a GI 275 HSI now and add a second GI 275 PFD later to replace the AI and keep the S-TEC. Then you would be set if you ever want to replace the S-TEC with a GFC 500. The G5 makes the most sense if you have no autopilot, or are installing a GFC 500 or as a standby for a G3X. The GI 275 is designed to work with legacy autopilots as well as the GFC 500.

Heat shrink and I zip tied the field wire securely to the large output wire.

One of Richard Taylors books had a chapter on checklists. I still recall the last item: Wedding ring -- ON.

There may be a connector under the instrument panel that connects all the wires in the headliner. The wiring in my M20J runs up the A pillar between the left front window and the windshield. It's possible that the connector didn't get connected. You'd have to check the schematic for yours, but in mine all the overhead speaker and light wiring runs through this connector. So, if the speakers also don't work, that might be it. If it's more complicated than that, I agree with @LANCECASPER: the shop broke it. You paid them a ton of money. They should fix it.

I'd try positing on BeechTalk. Several avionics installers hang out there. Terry Markovich would probably know.

Anecdotally, it seems like the most common cause of alternator failure is a broken field wire at the crimp to the ring terminal where it attaches to the alternator. I have added strain relief to mine and also inspect it every time the cowling is off. The differences in voltage engine on and off are interesting and worth exploring to better understand. At first look, it doesn't make a lot of sense that the alternator could be the cause. First the field is the rotor and so with no voltage applied, the rotor doesn't do much except spin around. Unlike generators, alternator fields have very little residual magnetism when unpowered. The stator output is connected to the ALT breaker through diodes so current should not flow in reverse. You could verify this if you could pull the ALT breaker, but yours isn't the push on-pull off type (This is probably because the designer never thought there would be a reason to pull it. The breaker has a higher rating than the alternator output and it's purpose is to protect the wire to the alternator from excessive current from the battery should there be a short circuit). I might fly around long enough so that the battery is fully charged and then land and note the voltage, and then pull the field breaker and not the voltage, and then shut down the engine without turning anything off and note the voltage again to see if it is reproduceable.

Normal charging is a constant potential (voltage) charge -- The charging voltage is constant and the battery takes whatever current it takes (up to the limit of the charger). This requires a constant voltage power supply per table 101/102 in the MM. Conditioning charge is a constant current charge -- The charging current is constant and the battery voltage goes to whatever it goes to (the supply must be capable of supplying current at a high enough voltage). This requires a constant current power supply per table 101/102 in the MM.

LASAR shows them for $73.85 ea. Often people make them from a hardware store spring and some piano wire.

The engine baffles (except the inter-cylinder baffles) are part of the airframe so they are in the Mooney IPC. That threaded rod isn’t right.

THIS^^^. The Cirrus has the advantage that the company is still in business. The wingspan is longer so make sure it will fit your hangar.