0TreeLemur

In the spirit of Mooney marketing, I'd go with redline: 189

Installed weatherstripping yesterday in position 'B" above. The product seems to be almost perfect in terms of width, thickness, and stiffness. Must pull in on the door just a bit harder than before to close it, but not that much more. After I closed the door from the inside, co-pilot standing outside had trouble hearing me talk. Can't wait to flight test it. The one difference from position B that we noted occurred in the lower-forward portion of the door. After doing the original install, from inside using flashlight I looked into the 3/8" gap between door and aircraft and could see 3/5 of the seal. Before adhesive became super set, we removed the last section we added in that corner and positioned new seal considerably lower to increase contact between seal and airframe. The perimeter of the door in our C is 10'3" so buy two rolls. You'll have plenty. Lay it on, don't stretch product during placement. We used scissors to cut small "V" shapes from inner portion of seal to help it bend around the corners without torsion and excessive deformation.

@steingar Your work is awesome. Thanks for sharing! Have you ever crafted an origami Mooney Z model?

Yep, and it works really well to. The B11 gets its input from a CDI and cares not what is driving that CDI. Mine follows a magenta line all day.

Question for the group. I'm going to install the stuff that @Andy95W showed at the start of this thread. Here's the question. For those of you have installed this stuff, regarding install, what works best, A) or B)? The old seal had major leaks along the bottom edge of the door, and a lot of wind noise from the forward portion of the upper door. The door is flush with the exterior of the airframe when closed, so it's a seal problem not a door problem. Thanks, Fred

Bumping this thread back up. Maybe there is an older thread that's better, but this one has some good info. BTW- the best remover for taking off 3M trim adhesive is Peerco 321. According to the MSDS the active ingredient is potassium hydroxide in a VOC gel made of turpenes. Pleasant orange scent. The KOH concentration is not high because the MSDS says the pH is 8.0. It's expensive: $114/gal on spruce. You can buy smaller sizes from other vendors. I cut off my old door seal like trimming meat from a bone with a razor blade. In many places the seal did not separate from the door frame and I was cutting the seal, not the adhesive. This product not only turns the adhesive into tacky stuff, but also partially disintegrates the old seal. A small wire brush and elbow grease turns it into tacky little snot-like balls that you can pull off. The Peerco product is sold to remove deice boots from wings. Won't harm paint. After the VOCs evaporate, all that is left is a white residue that washes off with water. Wipe down several times with a damp rag to avoid transporting salts into the door.

The hidden gems of MS remain mostly hidden except to those who take the time to use google to search MS. For instance there are excellent threads discussing questions like those suggested by @mike_elliott and @EricJ. Many started years ago. Unless someone has posted to them recently, they are needles in the haystack. Make these threads accessible and users can read them before starting yet another "Should I run LOP?" thread. What about a "popular threads" section? Good threads tend to attract new posts, even old ones. When somebody re-activates an old thread, it often attracts new posts if it is a good thread. This indicates that the number of posts in a thread is an indicator of either the quality of the information, appropriateness of the topic, or intensity of a debate. I for one would love to see the top 100 threads of MS listed in one place. That would be some good reading. You could define "top 100" different ways such as, most posts, most likes, etc.

Wow, that thing has an OLD panel. Decades of non upgrades.

I think I saw something like this. What a dent this would make.

I need one of those.

Internet search is your friend on mooneyspace. "sealant instrument panels site:mooneyspace.com" finds this thread, which discusses the topic in detail.

In the summertime that La Veta pass route is usually great. Convective initiation from mountain tops is common, suggesting an early a.m. departure (smooth), or after those happen and the anvils suppress surface heating (not smooth). Southern Colorado is going through a wet period which will increase the likelihood of convective activity, but might dry out by mid-June. Not a forecaster- pp advice only. Look forward to PiRep! Have fun.

Not only that, your $10k investment is essentially a liability given the risk profile of prop-strike plus sitting inactive for 5 years. Scrap value on the older avionics and airframe with suspect engine might get you to (WAG) $60-$70k? Spend the money on the overhaul, and your value pops up to $150k while your risk liability drops back down to normal. Or- flip it and use the proceeds to buy a plane that makes more sense for your skill level.

Agree- digital tachs are typically spot-on if working. Few measurements are quite as simple as a circuit that displays how many times per second something happens.

Rather than spend the 0.3 AMU's to OH your MP gauge, for only about 4.7 AMU's more, you can upgrade to an up-to-date engine monitor! If you are handy and have a cooperative A&P IA you can do most of the install yourself. That's what we did. It gave my co-owner the chance to get to know the hardware real well too. She now has a greater appreciation for how it all works.

I did the same experiment on a recent trip from AL to CO. Tested the difference between 2400 and 2500 at 8500 ft, when I was fighting a nasty headwind. Maybe 1 or 2 knots difference for more noise and about 0.4 gph increased fuel flow. meh. I went back to 2400.

I should have asked- do you have a modern engine monitor? They are really essential for the kind of engine management you want to do. We have a JPI EDM900 in our C, and I can dial in the EGT precisely on the leanest cylinder with it. LOP ops are not recommended for carbureted engines and my engine will not run smooth LOP no matter what I do. Using the EDM900 I dial in 80F ROP, which gets me 10.3 gph at 7.5k and 9.2-9.5 gph at 10.5k. My cruise CHT's with cowl flaps closed are all 355-365F. CHT's in the 300's are fine according to Mike Busch for Lycoming O-360's. .

I'm skeptical. If true, 22" MP at 10k feet requires a very non-standard atmosphere. That means temperature considerably below standard temp (23F), probably less than 0F, and very high barometric pressure (30.4"). If those conditions were true, then maybe. If not, your MP gauge is off.

Sure does. I claimed our garage for about six weeks while refurbing our plastic panels. I had stuff laying out everywhere.

My co-pilot and I started to refurbish the interior of 03L in Sept. 2019. As of May, 2021, I can report that it's more-or-less done. The interior of our '67C was very tired. Ripped upholstery, ripped/dirty/saggy headliner, crazed side/door windows, dingy/frayed carpet, cracked/stained plastic. Here's the result of our final step, installing SCS lightweight carpet with soundproof backing starting during the recent annual when we had the gascolator out. I was looking for a good "before" photo, but I guess I didn't take any - she was in really bad shape cosmetic and I avoided photographing the interior I guess. What a rewarding thing to do for not a huge cost.

It has a USB port, so maybe capability to flash something to ROM. Although I suspect a hardware problem given that the RAL isn't working, while everything else is fine. I'll post updates as the situation develops.

For reference:

Update. It turns out that my Remote Alarm Light (RAL) is not the problem. Drat. That was the simple option and too good to be true I guess. The only problem with testing the RAL is me. I need to pay attention and set the multimeter on diode test not ohms. So something is wrong with the unit. Contacted JPI and requested a return RMA. Received the following reply: Per tech the unit does not need to come in. We will be doing it remotely. For your reference, the RMA number is xxxx. Tech will email you in the order that your RMA was received. Please allow some time. That's vague. Some time? Anybody dealt with this before? Are they going to have me take/send it to a local avionics shop? That was Wednesday, I've not heard from them since. BTW I asked them to do three things: 1. Repair non-functioning RAL. 2. Remove intermediate RPM red arc since we now have a Top Prop with no RPM restrictions on a C model. 3. Increase fuel pressure red-line to 8 psi as per Lycoming O-360 engine specifications (gotta try). Not sure how this stuff is gonna happen remotely. Yes, item 3 is a Hail Mary, but I'm tired of the red-light distraction on takeoff warning me about a B.S. non-problem for fuel pressure of 6.1 p.s.i.

Definitely virga. I was approaching Greeley, Colorado.

Thanks Anthony. Turned out my whole trip from CO-AL was entirely VFR. Just as a test I tried to fly like I was IFR and I generally kept it within +/- 100 ft with a couple of lapses. It was so tiring, especially during that second leg when the turbulence started reaching my altitude. The Brittain altitude hold will be such a relief! The "AI" with the Brittain system is a tiny differential in static and reference pressure across a thin membrane. Brilliant system. Very similar to how the German V-2 "buzz bomb" maintained altitude. Like that system, the Brittain system will provide exactly the wrong control inputs when inverted. Legend has it that some brave allied pilot's started flipping the buzz bombs over with a wingtip, which caused them to nose-dive from an inverted position into a stall and crash. Not sure how much truth there is to that story but fun to recount. Data forthcoming, hopefully not from an inverted recovery. -Fred