MBDiagMan

I searched The forum before starting the thread and couldn’t find anything. I put a tube in the nose wheel tire today and there are no tire pressure decals like there were in my C. I’m old and so is my memory, but I thought the C was 32 everywhere. I went to the POH and it said 30 for the mains and 49 for the nosewheel, so that’s what I used, but won’t be flying it for 2 or 3 more days. 49 sounds crazy high, so I wanted to hear from you guys what you have experienced. Once I nail them down I will decal inside the gear doors. Thanks in advance for sharing your advice and comments.

I agree!

The poll choices don’t seem to work out well with the poll question. The question indicates two possible scenarios; no GPS currently installed or a non working 430w installed. Those are two drastically different scenarios. If you have a non working 430 W, you are only $1400 or so set fee from Garmin repair from being back in business. If you have nothing at all installed your cheapest 430w level or greater choice is $6500 plus a couple thousand dollar installation. The poll is an interesting one but needs to be corrected.

Wow Igor! What a timely post. I was just sitting here talking to my lovely wife about dropping the belly pan tomorrow. We still have family here and I am trying to minimize my time away from the house, but I really want to do it if it produces results. I can see the tee by looking forward from the open left exterior panel. I will use your picture for perspective and take another look. I think you saved me a bunch of wasted time. I appreciate this information and the picture a BUNCH! BTW, have all your red tubes and connectors remained tight?

Okay, with the whole fam family home for Christmas I haven’t had time for this. My plan is to take off the belly pan below the tee and see if I can isolate the leak. I have to get the tubes tight before I can move onto the actuators if necessary, but I now believe the actuators to be tight. I hope to get on this Tuesday.

I had the PC working perfectly and made the plane great to fly before developing a vacuum leak. It’s a bear to fly on instruments without the PC.

Okay, there was mention of a race between Garmin and BK being first with Mooney cert. How about now voting on whether I should suspend the repair project for my PC with the idea that he TT will be certified in the next 90 days?

Yes, I think Steve is probably the saving grace in this whole thing. I sure hope it happens!

That’s a difficult horse to pick. Garmin is already servicing the models more likely to spring with the cash necessary for a GFC. Their motivation for the older models is probably limited. BK having Cessna and Piper certification has more market than they can keep up with that, so their motivation is not real strong either. i already have the number one Christmas present on my list with all three daughters, their husbands and nine grandchildren home for Christmas. It would be incredible if within a few weeks BK were to make number two on the list possible. I’m not sure exactly when the TT was submitted to the FAA. We were told a year and a half ago that it had been submitted. Then we’re told again it had been submitted. Once the first falsehood comes forth you no longer know what you can believe.

Thanks for the warnings and info about max vac. i have no leaks int the actuators that I can tell. I am down to testing nay the lines and they won’t hold a vacuum. The actuators are isolated at this point.

I have lines disconnected from actuators and plugged to test the lines alone. I wish I could pull five with the misty vac. I cant get it past one inch for more than a second. Thanks for the tip about not setting the vac over five. I thought it was supposed to be 4.5 to 6.5. I guess I get that from the Cessna. it appears that replacing the line that goes through the wheel well and through the wing can be accomplished without too much trouble. The one from under the panel to the tee near the rear wing root appears to be the challenging one that could end up causing trouble.

I am fighting a vacuum leak in my PC. If I thought that the TruTrak would be approved soon, I would give up the fight and enjoy the family being home for Christmas but after waiting month after month for a year and a half, it’s really difficult to work up any confidence even though Steve appears to be bringing integrity to the process. You go on for months and months and you lose all confidence no matter what is said.

Okay, the tubing in the wing and the rudder appear to be the same. All 3/8” OD. With the lines at the actuators disconnected and plugged, applying vac at the TC end will build a little and then leak off in a second or two. If I had any confidence that the TruTrakwould be certified in the next couple of months I wouldn’t worry with it, but I have no confidence that it will EVER beavailable for a Mooney.

Without digging deeply.... it seems like the tubing size near the TC is smaller than that found at the aileron. Does anyone know the tubing dimensions to save me a trip to the hangar?

67 model made in Dec 66. I think I will have to pull the belly pan for good access to the Tee. The connections between soft line and hard line look to be difficult to service. Im going to get some different caps or something to cap the vacuum lines for testing the lines alone. When I started, I could pump some vacuum on the red line and it would hold for a little bit before leaking down. Testing the lines alone I can’t get any vacuum at all. Gonna have to do some more testing tomorrow before doing anything further. Right now I have the line removed from both actuators and capped, doing the testing from the line disconnected from the TC with a vac source.

Is the hard red line available?

Is it typically only the tubing or does the tee fitting give trouble? If you remove the belly pan below the tee and the access covers along the rear of the wing do you have enough access for changing it all or does some of the interior have to come out?

Okay, here’s where I’m at now: I have checked both actuators as best I can and they seem tight although I’m not totally confident of my test connection on the aileron connection. I have the rudder line disconnected and plugged and the aileron connection disconnected and plugged and can’t pull a vacuum on the line at the TC. I will check the connections and retest before I tear anything else apart, but it seems to be a leak somewhere in the lines. Are there any lines or connections That are more failure prone than others?

Thanks a bunch Clarence! Exactly what I needed to know! Thanks Yetti! I will look around in there.

I am getting under the panel without too much trouble, but getting at the aileron actuator is tougher. It has a J windshield and entire front cowling so there are no access panels in front of the windshield. I did remove the panel top For access to adjust the vacuum regulator. Which way do I turn on the serrated knob atop the regulator to increase the vacuum? The nut underneath that knob is not a locknut is it? I got a few minutes at the hangar. I disconnected the soft line from the red hard line on the left aileron and connected the vac source. The red line to the TC was removed and plugged. It would not hold a vacuum. I did not have time to connect to the actuator itself and test it. To be continued....

You know guys, when I was messing around behind the actuator the red line on the back of the boot seemed really loose. Now that I am looking at the drawings showing how it all goes together I am thinking that might be the leak. I’m buried in Getting ready for three daughters, three son in laws and nine Grandkids coming for Christmas. If I can get a break from that I’m going back to the hangar and try to get my hand further behind there. My hands are too big to fit in there. I may have to take a grandkid to the hangar.

No time wasted. I just disconnected the lines at the TC and checked them. That clearly pointed me toward the left side. No harm no foul and I appreciated the attempt to help.

Do you remove the actuator and replace the boot on the bench? Are the rudder boots the same part number as the aileron boots? Mine is a 67 model. Where do I access the tee that appears to be at the rear of the left wing root?

Okay. The leak is somewhere down the red line on the left. I pulled the hatch below the left aileron actuator and the one by the battery. I disconnected the line from the red rudder actuator. I applied vacuum to that rudder pod and it seemed to build vacuum properly and hold tight. Getting the line off of the aileron actuator is going to be a challenge. The boot on that one looks really good. It has a black hose that connects to a piece of red line that comes about 4 inches out of that actuator and apparently goes back the fuselage. This black hose seemingly replaces the original hard red line. Now I am curious where the other end of the black hose connects to the red hard line near the cockpit. At least I know which side and have a trail to follow. Also the hard red line that is in the back of the aileron actuator feels like it might be loose at the actuator, but I can’t get my hands on it well enough to know for sure. That actuator will be difficult to deal with to test and if need be, to repair it.

There is great info in this thread, so I only have two comments: First of all In the past Paul has pointed out the need for an autopilot to already be installed in the plane you buy. The current choices now certified for Mooney’s consists only of expen$ive solutions. Installing an autopilot after purchase is currently a serious endeavor. Secondly, some people in this thread have the opinion that there is no need at all for ADS- B unless you are flying into Bravo or Charlie. I believe it is becoming more and more necessary to not only be compliant with OUT, but a good solution for IN is also something you need for cross country or even local flying. Having onboard weather and traffic is more valuable than you understand until you have flown with it. I am very pleased to have it in both of my planes and can’t imagine even local flying, just buzzing around the lake without it. My $0.02,