Rick Junkin

Thanks Skip, I'll do the hose check on the storm window first. The wet spot is forward of the storm window and here was no water on the side panel or arm rest so I'm not initially hopeful. Although I guess if it's leaking it could be flowing down the side window behind the interior panel and following structure forward? I hadn't considered that until just now. I'll find out soon enough. Here's an older pic showing the exterior area of interest. The the windscreen skirt gap I referenced is just below and forward of the pilot window. There's no NACA scoop on my TLS/Bravo and I have no idea where the air comes from for the knee vent

The carpet on the pilot's side floor was soaked when I climbed in yesterday after the airplane sat out in light to moderate rain for two days. I'll be pulling the seats, carpet and side panels to try and find the source, but nothing obvious is jumping out at me. Thoughts? A few details. I had the windscreen resealed about a year ago because it was leaking at the top, and it looks good. They did a good job. The IFR window was latched closed with no evidence of water on the side window or inside panel surfaces. The only possible entry point on the outside is a small gap, no more than about 3/64", where the lower windscreen skirt piece extends on the side of the fuselage for a few inches past the right bottom side of the windscreen. I haven't looked yet but I don't think there's a water path from there to the inside. I did get a new instrument panel last year and they mounted the OAT probes on the fuselage side in that area (GAAAAHHH!!!) but they're tight and sealed. Any suggestions on where I should be looking once I get the seats/carpet/panels out?

I recall having an issue with my door latch becoming difficult to close, and it turned out one of the pushrods inside the door had become bowed due to the increasing force we were using to close it. I agree with @PT20J, I'd want to make sure the door is indeed latching properly before I flew it again.

Here's an illustration from my Bravo service manual to help you visualize how the door latch works. I believe they're all pretty much the same.

Here's a silly question - with the door open, can you move the outside door latch easily through its full travel? This might help isolate where the problem is, and let you see what the side pin and top latch are doing.

I'm still seeing the same banner behavior on my MacBook, iPad and iPhone running the most recent OS and iOS versions. Possibly a Safari browser issue with the latest update. EDIT: Yup, I tried Google Chrome and it works as expected. Something changed in Safari that is causing the banner to not load until the web page is refreshed.

Dropping by 1H2 will only add 15 minutes to my trip home, happy to make that happen. I’ll touch base with you next week to confirm a day and time. Tentatively looking at Thursday afternoon, 21 November.

This occurred before the election following an effort spearheaded by Jeff Simon of Social Flight and Mike Busch of Savvy Aviation. There’s a number of Social Flight video segments with Jeff and Mike discussing how it all came about and why.

The Mooney badge and MOOONEYSPACE.COM do not load initially when I open the web site. When I refresh the page the banner displays properly. Is anyone else seeing this behavior? Not a big problem, just weird. I'm using Safari 18.0.1 on a MacBook Air running macOS Sequoia 15.0.1.

How far down state? I'm flying over to St Louis next week and may be able to make a detour on my way home on Thursday the 21st. What's the closest airport to you?

I am the same size and I fly an M (Bravo) "more or less comfortably" with my wife in the right seat. Also comfortable with 180-200# friends in the right seat without a seat stagger. What you'll want to look at is how much room you have, and what range of motion you can accomplish, with your left arm with your hand on the yoke. It's tight but I can make it work. I've heard some folks say they sit slightly offset to the right to give them more room. If you can fit in other brands you'll probably be ok.

Ok, I'm guilty of missing @Danb's post about the RxSights LAL lenses. That answers my question about light adjustable lenses. $6K per eye is out of my league. As I recall the Vivity multifocal was under $2K out of pocket after insurance.

Yes, it's well worth it. Now having said that, everything is relative. You said your engine runs smooth, as compared to a number of other engines you've flown behind. My engine had the slightest vibration that I could feel, and dynamic balancing made it go away. But the other benefit is the improvement on reducing mechanical stress in your engine/prop combination. Less vibration yields less stress and less wear throughout the airplane, even vibration you can't feel in the cockpit. The best time to start that benefit is early in an engine's life, where yours is. The balancing process is pretty simple, and the setup takes more time than the measurements. An accelerometer and optical sensor are attached to your engine to measure engine vibration and prop position, and an indexing reflector is applied to the back of one blade of your prop. You run the engine up to a nominal cruise RPM and the computer calculates vibration in inches per second, and also calculates how much and where to apply offsetting/balancing weight (bolts/washers/nuts in varying combinations) on your flywheel to reduce the vibration. Stop the engine, apply the weights, and repeat until you're happy with the results. Here's a good introduction to dynamic balancing from Jeff Simon.

Well count me as lucky too. I got the Vivity multifocal IOL in my right eye in 2021 and didn't have any additional visits for adjustments or "locking in" that @donkaye speaks of. It works great for me and met all of my expectations, and I'm a scientist/engineer/test pilot/CFII. Perhaps the adjustable lens technology is new in the last 3 years and I received an older fixed version of the Vivity multifocal IOL. At any rate it was a good choice for me and I'll make the same choice when my left eye cataract makes it uncorrectable by conventional means. @Hank, you're the expert on IOLs. Any clarification on multifocal IOLs you can add? I'd hate for people to be scared away from considering an option that has clearly worked for some of us (puns intended). EDIT: Reading back through the thread I see @Danb already answered my question about the latest tech advancements.

I have an earlier version of this Black Diamond headlamp and I like it. It uses AAA batteries, and has a detented pivot that lets you aim it down where you need it while you keep your head up. I set to power up in the red mode when flying. I use it outside of flying as well. Unfortunately the mode sequencing is not terribly intuitive and requires me to play with it occasionally for a refresh on how it works. It does have a number of modes and colors (green, blue) that aren't useful to me, but the general ease of operation and easily replaceable batteries work for me. https://www.basspro.com/shop/en/black-diamond-spot-400-headlamp?hvarAID=shopping_googleproductextensions&ds_e=GOOGLE&ds_c=BPS|Shopping|PMax|Camping|General|NAud|NVol|NMT&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAD1Tgtd-xLx1u4N_Ik7NhGJOuEcb_&gclid=Cj0KCQiAire5BhCNARIsAM53K1hQoScYYFgSGP_BmHhskw5HfYQ8sPJG9jIrriIC39Q9BBicRzE0ZVQaAiqqEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

They're doing well and still hosting the Florida Mooney Lunch Group. Contact details in this thread, last post.

This is the premise that inspired me to play around and build a spreadsheet. Assuming he was just intending to fly out for cheaper gas and then come back home, and assuming he actually had 20g in the airplane when he left and the round trip of 150NM would consume 14g, it would cost him $11.00 MORE than fueling to the same level at home, and he wouldn't have full fuel when he got back. Of course things change significantly if this is an enroute fuel stop and it makes sense. Unless the field with the cheaper fuel is very close, or the cost difference is something like $2.00 a gallon, an out-and-back will rarely be a break even. Mostly what I've seen is a cheaper cost per hour for local flying I wanted to do anyway. Bottom line is cheaper fuel enroute is good, flying out and back to cheaper fuel is not nearly as good as we think it is.

xOut Field Refuel Break Even Calculator - Excel.xlsx Since flying to cheaper fuel was a factor in this, I’m sharing my rainy-day project break-even spreadsheet again. I put it together as more of a curiosity than anything else. Nothing fancy, just fill in the white space numbers and the green space numbers show you how much you are saving, or more likely not, by flying to that cheaper fuel.

Not great pictures but this is my gear warning switch after I repaired a broken connection at the switch. It’s the same switch body that’s used for the fuel pump switch, which you can see in the second picture. The fuel pump switch is facing us, the gear warning switch is on the back side of the bracket with the two clean screws/nuts. All this to say my switches both have the same “knob” attach points as your new switch.

I shared this by DM but posting here for the next guy having issues. This is some info on troubleshooting a turbocharged engine. I found it educational. https://www.avweb.com/ownership/troubleshooting-the-turbo-system/

Sorry to hear that! I’m out of my depth beyond that suggestion. Something is not right in the air/fuel regulation systems and I hope you can find it quickly.

Ok, let's compare apples to apples. At 30/2200 and 10,000' what is your peak TIT, and what is your FF at peak TIT? I'll check mine on Sunday and we can compare notes.

My engine runs very differently from yours. Every time I see your TIT numbers I think your probe is reading about 100dF low, but we've been through all that. You run at 30/2200, 10-30 LOP at 14.2gph and your TIT is only 1500-1525. I run at 30/2200, 35-40 LOP at 13.2gph and my TIT is 1585-1600. If I increase FF to 14.2gph I'm still LOP but my TIT is around 1625. Makes me scratch my head. Alot. Glad to see you got your airplane back!

Here is the same photo from my airplane, with another one from outside the right intake for perspective. The OP’s baffles are oriented correctly.

I should have clarified that my problem was at the upper deck plumbing junction on the firewall side of the rear metal baffle. Mine was completely disconnected. It could be that yours is only finger tight and leaking if you’ve had any work done in that area. However if this is something that just occurred after the airplane has been sitting, a crack in one of the hoses is more likely. If a leak is even indeed the problem.